[tomtom]

This is the best/most useful explanation of these four terms I've read. Excellent.

Explain to me like I'm a two year old the difference between AnPow and AeroPow?

[slackline]

Explain to me like I'm a two year old the difference between AnPow and AeroPow?

The portmanteaus don't help...

Anaerobic Power
Aerobic Power
 

[monkoffunk]

This is the best/most useful explanation of these four terms I've read. Excellent.

Explain to me like I'm a two year old the difference between AnPow and AeroPow?

Well that's the best most useful explanation I've seen!

[tomtom]

:D

[Nibile]

I was about to ask a similar question.
In my case, I want to be able to climb for roughly two minutes in a roof. With getting the route wired it could easily go down to 1'45" or so, at least according to all the videos of repeats.
I've been working with 10' on 10' off, going up and down my campusboard with feet on the ground - as Stu and others suggested in another topic - achieving and then maintaining a good level of pump for the whole duration. It seems to me that this is pure AeroCap, or maybe the Base phase of aerobic training.
Then, more recently, I've done a few sessions on a 15 degrees campusboard with foot jibs, going up and down on good rungs, managing laps of 4'. I this is more AeroPow or the Quality phase. Am I right?

Question: considering that the event duration is 2', is the base phase still needed? Are the 10' laps still beneficial because they "teach" the muscles to work aerobically better than the 4' laps?
Cheers.

Bump.

[Stu Littlefair]

Nibs; yes, the base phase is still useful.

If you want to get as much effort out of an energy system as possible there are many physiological changes need to occur. Some of these take a while and respond best to base training. Some are quick to occur and need higher quality training. The combination leads to peak performance.

The duration of your event is more relevant for deciding whether to focus on anaerobic or aerobic work. The interplay between these two is more complex than you might think, and good aerobic fitness is useful even for short efforts. Getting the balance right is tricky.


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[filz]

So stop looking for excuses and do your boring aerobic training

Also take a look at the article below.  It explains how the aerobic system intervenes from the beginning and quickly becomes prevalent.. Not sure if it applies to climbing though

http://www.8weeksout.com/2011/10/10/research-review-energy-systems-interval-training-rsa/

Inviato dal mio Nexus 7 utilizzando Tapatalk

[Tommy]

I was about to ask a similar question.
In my case, I want to be able to climb for roughly two minutes in a roof. With getting the route wired it could easily go down to 1'45" or so, at least according to all the videos of repeats.
I've been working with 10' on 10' off, going up and down my campusboard with feet on the ground - as Stu and others suggested in another topic - achieving and then maintaining a good level of pump for the whole duration. It seems to me that this is pure AeroCap, or maybe the Base phase of aerobic training.
Then, more recently, I've done a few sessions on a 15 degrees campusboard with foot jibs, going up and down on good rungs, managing laps of 4'. I this is more AeroPow or the Quality phase. Am I right?

Question: considering that the event duration is 2', is the base phase still needed? Are the 10' laps still beneficial because they "teach" the muscles to work aerobically better than the 4' laps?
Cheers.

Think of it like this Nibs:

Your 1min 45 - 2 min project demands that your forearm works both aerobically AND anaerobically. At that kind of length then it's probably more heavily weighted to the anaerobic side (depending on speed of movements).

Therefore:

You want to improve the capacity of both the aerobic AND anaerobic system to produce energy.

Therefore:

In base, work the training that will do this for you (obviously putting more focus on the one that you're poorer at in the first place) and get you to the levels that you need.

Finally:

When approaching project time, you want to "fine tune" these two systems (this is your AeroPow / AnPow) to get the most out of the system for your event duration (2 mins). As your event is 2 mins I would work in the "fine tuning stage" the following:

AeroPow (moves as hard / bit harder than proj) - 2 mins in 1 section blocks, and 4 section blocks. Keep making the rest smaller and smaller.

AnPow (moves quite a bit harder than proj) - 2 mins in 8 section blocks. Keep making the rest smaller and smaller.

Whilst doing this, DO NOT continue to hammer the capacity training.  . You can't have your cake and eat it.

Hope that helps!

[Nibile]

 

[tk421a]

Hi Tom,
Thanks, this is really useful stuff.
One question: I just relistened to your podcast on TrainingBeta, you mention doing high "aerobic capacity" which is 20 move circuits, rest equal to the climbing time, 5 reps. Is this really aerocap or is it more aeropow? Based on Barrows' training pdf it sounds more aeropow?
Cheers