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New book "train hard but smart" - any experiences? (Read 13407 times)

BicepsMou

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Came accross this new training book and was wondering if anybody already has it / has had the chance to have a look and what your impressions were.

http://www.trainhardbutsmart.com/book.html

Excerpt: http://www.trainhardbutsmart.com/downloads/excerpt_web01.pdf

At first glance, it could seem like it tries to jump on the bandwagon of the Gimme-Kraft and similars successes, but I may very well be wrong...

rodma

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"Nic Duerr's Train Hard But Smart is like having a set of coaches in your pocket."
- Sean McColl

that's a lot of additional weight for a wee guy like him to carry. explains why he's such a beast in comps anyway :whistle:

BicepsMou

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Mumra

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I bought this the other day, just waiting for it to be delivered  :popcorn:

BicepsMou

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Cool - please do share your impressions once you've had a thorough read and eventually first thoughts of how to put some of the content into practice.
Would be especially interesting to learn which white spot(s) in the ever growing training literature this one is adressing...

Wishing you a good read! :coffee:

Dave Flanagan

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€49 + €7 for shipping. Jesus.

TheTwig

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Probably worth some people buying the book just for Page 130 alone! (pg 17 on the sample pdf)

"Good training can always answer the following questions: What exactly is it I am working on? Why does this make me a better climber?"  :lol: :popcorn:

Note I refer to general gumbies, not the populace of UKB :)

Nibile

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Judging from the .pdf excerpt it look like the perfect marketing package. Slick edit, colorful graphs and charts, etc. I immediately hated everything about it.
I disagree with the idea of giving training schedules with excercises, sets and reps on books. I would like to know which are the criteria to fit in the various training categories, like shown on the campusing plyo picture.
12 sets of 6? Come on guys...

mrjonathanr

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Jacky Godoffe should have done one. Top gymnast, top boulderer. I'd have bought that.

tommy_k

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I own it and like it a lot.

Hasn’t just made me stronger so far but is the first book that I feel really puts effort into teaching the training theory behind the exercises as well.

For some it might be important to know that you won’t get a bunch of new exercises you have never heard of before.
What you will get is a solid beautifully illustrated book covering a sh**load of topics without much fluff.

I prefer it to GK, RCTM and all the others collecting dust on my shelf...

Just my 2 cents  :weakbench:

a dense loner

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Godoffe weighs about 4 1/2 stone, I wouldn't have bought one for this very reason.

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BicepsMou

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For some it might be important to know that you won’t get a bunch of new exercises you have never heard of before.
What you will get is a solid beautifully illustrated book covering a sh**load of topics without much fluff.

Thanks Tommy, I appreciate your feedback. That gives me a good idea how it fits into all those other books.

I'm a little bit deceived though that it also hasn't resolved the issue that although paying good money for it doesn't make you automatically stronger.   :strongbench:
 :)


mrjonathanr

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Decevoir = disappoint; deceive = tromper

tommy_k

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12 sets of 6? Come on guys...

+1

This got me thinking as well after you mentioned it, so I figured I'd just ask the guy directly why 6x12  ;D
He replied within an hour and didn't mind me sharing it with you guys.
Enjoy  :)


Quote
Hey Tommy,

absolutely, feel free to share it and let me know if you have any further questions!

Train Hard!
Nic


Hi Nic,
wow, thanks a lot for the extensive reply!
Would you mind if I share it on the UKB-Forum?

cheers,
Tommy



Hi Tommy,

thanks for contacting me with your question, I hope I can make things a bit clearer for you.
You are right, 12 sets is something we rarely hear in the climbing specific training especially when we are talking about strength training and not endurance.

As you have read the book you know the Campus Plyos exercise appears in the context of the advanced training methods (in this case plyometric training) and is meant to server as an example for that.
As I also explained in the book campusing probably isn’t a „true“ plyometric exercise because we are a little too slow on the campusboard to really qualify as such, but that doesn’t mean we can’t make use of some of the underlying principles and benefit from them.

It is very important to realize that unfortunately at this point we do not yet completely understand all the processes involved. We can however see correlations between the dose and response of certain strength training parameters and their effects on the trained individuals.
And some of the things we know about plyometric training with quite high certainty are for example:
- Plyometric training can significantly increase strength performance especially in already trained individuals
- for plyometric training high speed and medium intensities are superior to lower speeds and higher intensities (i.e. no adding weight here!)
- for maximum effect we need a high number of (high speed) repetitions (>35) per session
- Plyometric training works best combined with a regular concentric-eccentric training and then produces superior results

These, a few more finer points and a lot of experimentation shaped the parameters for the Campus Plyos exercise in the book.
Initially I was quite skeptical whether this would really benefit us climbers more than doing purely higher intensity (slower) concentric-eccentric movements for strength but both for myself and the people I coach I have had great success combining the two.

As you can see, the „up to 6 repetitions“ per side for the Campus Plyos in one set attempt to ensure maximum speed while the 12 sets (for level 3) ensure the necessary total number of repetitions in one session to be in the range we need to be to benefit from the plyometric effects. (The lower levels won’t be fast enough for plyometrics so we focus more on fast concentric-eccentric parameters here - higher intensity, fewer sets).


I hope that explains a bit of the reasoning behind the parameters for the Campus Plyos exercise.
Let me know if you have any further questions!

If you are interested, here are some studies that will give you a good starting point to read up on the subject. Follow some of the citations in there to get a better idea of the topic.
Be careful tough, always check how many people they included in the study, whether they were athletes and if they provided a good control group. And even then be aware that not everything will be transferable to climbing ;-)

Here you go:

http://www.jsams.org/article/S1440-2440(09)00187-X/abstract?cc=y=
http://journals.lww.com/nsca-jscr/Abstract/2009/03000/Determining_Variables_of_Plyometric_Training_for.20.aspx
http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/41/6/349.fullhttp://journals.lww.com/nsca-jscr/Abstract/1992/02000/The_Effect_of_Six_Weeks_of_Squat,_Plyometric_and.6.aspx
http://journals.lww.com/nsca-jscr/Abstract/2000/11000/Evaluation_of_Plyometric_Exercise_Training,_Weight.16.aspxhttp://journals.lww.com/acsm-msse/Fulltext/1998/05001/Comparison_Between_One_Leg_and_Two_Leg_Plyometric.615.aspx?trendmd-shared=0

BicepsMou

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Wow, that's for sure a great service mentality from the guy and as far as I can judge a very qualified reply. Especially the point about the speed of the rebound action on a campus rung not being really fast enough for a true plyometric excercise (think the threshold is somewhere around 300msecs if I recall correctly) is something I came across sporadically and since then wondered about.

Thanks for sharing, Tommy!

Decevoir = disappoint; deceive = tromper

Thanks! I tend to do these all the time.  ;D
Glad my signature did its effect...

Mumra

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Is it just me or does it sound like the author is talking to himself on this thread?

BicepsMou

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Hey - in case it is that you are alluding to: I am NOT the author, nor a friend of him nor do I know him by any direct or indirect means. :P

But as being interested in training literature, I want to understand what this book does (and what it does not) compared to all the others out the and on my bookshelf and am thus encouraging every feedback I can get.

Or did I misinterpret?

blamo

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I purchased a copy of the book.  The book is organized nicely.  To me it was a bit like an abbreviated version of the RCTM with more of a focus on undulating periodization. 

Overall, the book is well written and thought out.  The book is a bit on the pricey side.  If you are already familiar with a fair amount of the climbing training literature, then you probably won't find anything new in this book.  However, the book would definitely make a reasonable place to start reading about training.


BicepsMou

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So if one has e.g. RCTM, he can save the money. Cause as you say it's not really cheap...
Thanks!

Mumra

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Sorry I didn't get back to you about the book Biceps Mou (great name btw)
I've not finished reading it yet, but so far I like it. I agreed with blamo that it's a very condensed book, no fluff of faff. I'll let you know what I full think when I finish it off.
Money wise it wasn't cheap, £37 including postage. It's hardback, so I guess that accounts for a lot of the cost. My copy of RCTM is battered after keeping it in my car and dragging it around (rather than reading it cover to cover), so maybe this will be cheaper in the long run  :shrug:

Muenchener

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Money wise it wasn't cheap, £37 including postage. It's hardback, so I guess that accounts for a lot of the cost. My copy of RCTM is battered after keeping it in my car and dragging it around (rather than reading it cover to cover), so maybe this will be cheaper in the long run  :shrug:

I regret getting Training for the New Alpinism as an e-book. Not because I have any intention of engaging in new alpinism - god forbid - but because of the interviews with gnarly Himalayan wads like Peter Habeler & Vojtek Kurtyka. Would have liked to have those and some of the pics on paper.

rodma

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What's "undulating periodization"?

It's like when you see two or more different flocks of different breeds of sheep at the same time, which requires user of the underused collective collective noun “sheeps”



Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk


BicepsMou

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Undulating periodization:

This link gives a nice overview of the different periodization concepts around, as well as who invented them in which original context.

http://breakingmuscle.com/strength-conditioning/a-simple-guide-to-periodization-for-strength-training

BicepsMou

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Thanks Mumra for the feedback!
...and yeah - I love this BicepsMou Boulder in Bleau (or Font as you'd probably call it) and the (by now far too distant) memories associated with it  :bounce:


Nibile

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I think that having a proper periodization is already difficult, without professional coaching, let alone an ondulating one. I doubt someone who buys a training manual is capable of handling this sort of hyper specific aspects.
Charts and programs have never worked for me, even when I was coached; too many life variables make things sketchy. I find it much better to carry on a very general and long term plan, with small blocks of one week. Checking that short term progress is constant, ensures me also long term progress.
Anyway, no critique to the book or author, just my experience with periodization and training manuals.

Mumra

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From what I understand this is why undulating periodisation would be better. A mixture of training stimulus that's non-linear. Or have I miss read?

Nibile

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From what I understand this is why undulating periodisation would be better. A mixture of training stimulus that's non-linear. Or have I miss read?
Are you referring to my post?

Mumra

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I was saying (poorly), that from what I've read undulating is another term for non-linear, which is what you described as wanting. I'm more confused now lol

Nibile

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Sorry but I don't think I ever said that, officer.
My post was just about my experience that even linear periodization is hard to follow, unless you have lots of time and very adjustable life committments, so an ondulating periodization must be even harder to plan and follow, for normal people, those who aren't coached one by one and day by day.
As I (poorly) said, I don't have any periodization at all, I just try to keep progressing week by week, simply factoring in the highs and lows. I do plan a little before the very few trips that I have along the year, but no more than one week in advance.

Mumra

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Which is what I assumed this was-unplanned planning. Working on various elements at different times that fit into your life cycle :-\
I wasn't trying to put words in your mouth  :-*

Nibile

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I wasn't trying to put words in your mouth  :-*
Ahah I know, it was just a joke.
Anyway, still on the subject, I think that ondulating periodization is far from being various elements to be fitted in one's life, I tend to think that it's rather a hyper-planned thing, because you have to assess intensity and volume in that undulating progression and that must be very complicated.
With simple excercises it could be doable, for instance with deadhanging, or campusing, but with climbing it must be hell to build a schedule around that kind of progression.

StillTryingForTheTop

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Any updates on this book now people have had it for a while?

Thinking of getting myself a training book and wondering if this is currently "top of the list", or is anything better?

BicepsMou

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Any updates on this book now people have had it for a while?

Thinking of getting myself a training book and wondering if this is currently "top of the list", or is anything better?

I've bought it in the meantime, couldn’t resist my curiosity despite the quite high price. Have worked it thru and started to apply some of the concepts in the last mesocycle.

My reaction to it is a bit divided:
I mostly like the strength training parts but the endurance part is rather poor.

About the strength part, I like that the author has tried to boil things down to the simplest one needs to know to plan and structure his or her strength training. Still I tend to feel some important information should have been covered in a bit more detail (e.g. which of the presented exercises for a given muscle group to choose for which exact purpose / training phase), but when trying to be short and concise it is always hard to find the right cut and everybody will have slightly different opinions on where the line should be drawn, so that’s OK for me.

Side note: The concept of delayed effects (or cycle effects) that e.g. gets covered in the excellent book of Guyon/Broussouloux: ‘Escalade et Performance’ does not get mentioned. However this is very important for understanding long-term effects and getting the planning right. If interested in this, there is excellent experience sharing + case study on http://thomas-ferry.fr/ . He is the trainer of e.g. Guigui Mondet and Mathilde Becerat, knows what he’s talking about and is very open in his experience sharing.

Back on topic: The endurance part is rather poor: There are drills and exercises for most of the different aspects (Aero/An/Cap/Pow), but these concepts –or similar ones- do not get mentioned and thus the choice of which kind of exercise/drill to use in which (base/quality) phase of your training does not get covered and is thus quite random. The information on this site by Abarrows&Tommy is light-years more detailed and useful in this regard.

In summary: If someone is relatively new to structured strength for climbing training and follows the advice in the book, I’m convinced the concepts will work very well. Also someone looking for useful strength training advice that is quick and easy to apply without bothering much about more detailed knowledge will be served well. The experts will miss some background information but may see it as a nice addition (e.g. recall of essentials) to other strength for climbing training resources.

NB: it may appear above that I recommend instead the book ‘Escalade et Performance’ as being top of the list. However, the concept of this book is very different (lots more details but at the same time, very easy to get lost in them…), so both books target clearly different goals and user groups.

Hope this helps

StillTryingForTheTop

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Thanks,

It is definitely the strength ideas I am lacking, and I know this book won't give me anything I can't find on the internet

I am new to structured training though, so it sounds like it might fit the bill


I've bought it in the meantime, couldn’t resist my curiosity despite the quite high price. Have worked it thru and started to apply some of the concepts in the last mesocycle.

My reaction to it is a bit divided:
I mostly like the strength training parts but the endurance part is rather poor.

About the strength part, I like that the author has tried to boil things down to the simplest one needs to know to plan and structure his or her strength training. Still I tend to feel some important information should have been covered in a bit more detail (e.g. which of the presented exercises for a given muscle group to choose for which exact purpose / training phase), but when trying to be short and concise it is always hard to find the right cut and everybody will have slightly different opinions on where the line should be drawn, so that’s OK for me.

Side note: The concept of delayed effects (or cycle effects) that e.g. gets covered in the excellent book of Guyon/Broussouloux: ‘Escalade et Performance’ does not get mentioned. However this is very important for understanding long-term effects and getting the planning right. If interested in this, there is excellent experience sharing + case study on http://thomas-ferry.fr/ . He is the trainer of e.g. Guigui Mondet and Mathilde Becerat, knows what he’s talking about and is very open in his experience sharing.

Back on topic: The endurance part is rather poor: There are drills and exercises for most of the different aspects (Aero/An/Cap/Pow), but these concepts –or similar ones- do not get mentioned and thus the choice of which kind of exercise/drill to use in which (base/quality) phase of your training does not get covered and is thus quite random. The information on this site by Abarrows&Tommy is light-years more detailed and useful in this regard.

In summary: If someone is relatively new to structured strength for climbing training and follows the advice in the book, I’m convinced the concepts will work very well. Also someone looking for useful strength training advice that is quick and easy to apply without bothering much about more detailed knowledge will be served well. The experts will miss some background information but may see it as a nice addition (e.g. recall of essentials) to other strength for climbing training resources.

NB: it may appear above that I recommend instead the book ‘Escalade et Performance’ as being top of the list. However, the concept of this book is very different (lots more details but at the same time, very easy to get lost in them…), so both books target clearly different goals and user groups.

Hope this helps

Three Nine

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NB: it may appear above that I recommend instead the book ‘Escalade et Performance’ as being top of the list. However, the concept of this book is very different (lots more details but at the same time, very easy to get lost in them…), so both books target clearly different goals and user groups.

Hope this helps

I guess you cant get it in English?

BicepsMou

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I guess you cant get it in English?

I only know the French edition. Haven't seen an English one yet and don't think it's been published in other languages

BicepsMou

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(...), and I know this book won't give me anything I can't find on the internet


That's very likely true!

However, the trouble with web-based information is always that you also get the 95% irelevant stuff along with the 5% useful one. And what this book does IMO is sorting it out for the reader and distilling it down.

StillTryingForTheTop

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That is indeed my experience of the internet



(...), and I know this book won't give me anything I can't find on the internet


That's very likely true!

However, the trouble with web-based information is always that you also get the 95% irrelevant stuff along with the 5% useful one. And what this book does IMO is sorting it out for the reader and distilling it down.

StillTryingForTheTop

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How have you found the stuff on "Undulating periodisation"?

I find most training plans focus on quite long levels of periodisation, with an objective of peaking for some specific event, eg competition or holiday trip

For me, I find it difficult to stick to / frustrating if I can't stick to, these long levels of periodisation, plus I have no specific event to train towards so for me a more gentle slower continuous improvement will be more useful.

Therefore, and I am not sure of the benefits, I believe some sort of weekly phasing would be more manageable for me, and looking in to it briefly that sounds like undulating periodisation

Gary

Any updates on this book now people have had it for a while?

Thinking of getting myself a training book and wondering if this is currently "top of the list", or is anything better?

I've bought it in the meantime, couldn’t resist my curiosity despite the quite high price. Have worked it thru and started to apply some of the concepts in the last mesocycle.

My reaction to it is a bit divided:
I mostly like the strength training parts but the endurance part is rather poor.

About the strength part, I like that the author has tried to boil things down to the simplest one needs to know to plan and structure his or her strength training. Still I tend to feel some important information should have been covered in a bit more detail (e.g. which of the presented exercises for a given muscle group to choose for which exact purpose / training phase), but when trying to be short and concise it is always hard to find the right cut and everybody will have slightly different opinions on where the line should be drawn, so that’s OK for me.

Side note: The concept of delayed effects (or cycle effects) that e.g. gets covered in the excellent book of Guyon/Broussouloux: ‘Escalade et Performance’ does not get mentioned. However this is very important for understanding long-term effects and getting the planning right. If interested in this, there is excellent experience sharing + case study on http://thomas-ferry.fr/ . He is the trainer of e.g. Guigui Mondet and Mathilde Becerat, knows what he’s talking about and is very open in his experience sharing.

Back on topic: The endurance part is rather poor: There are drills and exercises for most of the different aspects (Aero/An/Cap/Pow), but these concepts –or similar ones- do not get mentioned and thus the choice of which kind of exercise/drill to use in which (base/quality) phase of your training does not get covered and is thus quite random. The information on this site by Abarrows&Tommy is light-years more detailed and useful in this regard.

In summary: If someone is relatively new to structured strength for climbing training and follows the advice in the book, I’m convinced the concepts will work very well. Also someone looking for useful strength training advice that is quick and easy to apply without bothering much about more detailed knowledge will be served well. The experts will miss some background information but may see it as a nice addition (e.g. recall of essentials) to other strength for climbing training resources.

NB: it may appear above that I recommend instead the book ‘Escalade et Performance’ as being top of the list. However, the concept of this book is very different (lots more details but at the same time, very easy to get lost in them…), so both books target clearly different goals and user groups.

Hope this helps

BicepsMou

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How have you found the stuff on "Undulating periodisation"?

I find most training plans focus on quite long levels of periodisation, with an objective of peaking for some specific event, eg competition or holiday trip

For me, I find it difficult to stick to / frustrating if I can't stick to, these long levels of periodisation, plus I have no specific event to train towards so for me a more gentle slower continuous improvement will be more useful.

Therefore, and I am not sure of the benefits, I believe some sort of weekly phasing would be more manageable for me, and looking in to it briefly that sounds like undulating periodisation

I couldn't really find a section going into the details of undulating periodization in the book or anything referring to a really complex periodization scheme.

The book is simply suggesting to organize your training into blocks, where you're setting priority goals. 6-8 weeks for strength and 4-6 weeks for endurance. After this, a tapering / recovery phase of 1-2 weeks is suggested. Alongside the main priority focus (and some secondary exercises) it is recommended to do some maintenance training for the non-priority aspects, as maintenance needs a substantially less frequent stimulus than building up a certain strength or endurance aspect.

This is following IMO the concept of non-linear periodization or block periodization as Steve Bechtel is blogging about, event if these terms aren't used in the book. The nice thing is that it's really kept simple and I guess very easy to follow.
The training script of the German DAV is following the same logic with the exact goal in mind that you mentioned, which is to assure a continuous improvement and to avoid deep lows, which is much more suitable to a skill sport like climbing with longer performance periods than the more linear periodization schemes which have deep lows and high but shorter peaks.

I wouldn't recommend very short priority slots, as you referred to weekly phasing. After quick initial gains that one can realize regardless of anything structured, the body needs a certain consistency of stimulus for a certain time period to really be able to improve on a given training aspect. You find different recommendations about the length of these periods in the literature, ususally 3-4 weeks and longer, so the rcommendations in the book may be on the longer side, but the main reasoning behind it is sound. I'd guess that most training efforts are being sabotaged by switching priorities too often, jumping on and off every new protocol picked up on the net, fearing that this new thing may be so much better than what one is currently doing and thus not giving any of these programs the necessary time to impact the body and deploy its effects. I've experienced this myself quite some time ago, wondering why progress was so slow, so guilty myself  :'(

StillTryingForTheTop

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ordered it, so will see what it is like when it turns up :strongbench:

 

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