[csl]

STG
V8 indoors
Rehab Finger

MTG
7c in Siurana
a few of 7's without ruining finger further

LTG
8a

Wednesday

Hard Boulders at Biscuit - up to V7. Woke up the next day with a pretty tender finger, definately made the tweak from Sunday a lot worse with this. Silly.

Saturday

Easy Boulders + Aerocap
Managed problems up to V5ish without hurting finger further - feels fine today too.

Annoying to injure a pulley just as i feel like i'm climbing well again, plan for the next month before Siurana is to rehab it properly and slowly work back up to fingerboarding/hard bouldering.

[fried]

Cheers csl

Weather crap.

M - Rest
T - Indoors - crap
W - Rest
Th - Indoors - less crap
Fr - Rest
Sa - Back to normal crapness.
Su - Planted chillis

A nice week, skin back to normal after January, started by not being able to pull onto a 6B boulder on Tuesday, finished with ease on Saturday, worked lots  more difficult stuff 6Cish and made good progress. What that means in real grades I'll have to wait and see.

Had another migraine attack with aura after climbing, seems I need to make sure I'm hydrated and had enough to eat.

[the_dom]

Mon: Deadlifts over lunch, evening campus session.
Tues: Hike in the forest.
Wed: Deadlifts over lunch, evening hangboard session focusing on one arms.
Thurs: Bouldering (indoors) - decent session.
Fri: AM Surf in small, but fun waves. Was quite cold.
Sat: Bouldering (indoors) - not a very long session, but not unproductive.
Sun: Hangover. Short hangboard session focusing on one arms.

Not a bad week, training-wise.

[Will Hunt]

STG: Red Baron Roof
MTG: Good elbows for Font; have a nice Font trip; FA projects
LTG: ?

Wednesday: Lamp session on the roof. Got quite close on one attempt and fell off trying to match feet to the arete. Think I felt shagged out on the last holds due to crap nutrition.

Sunday: Session on the roof. Decent connies and felt pretty good on the last moves. Had three attempts where it could have happened. Dropped once when I had my left toe coming up to match on the arete - because my right foot skidded off, something that has never happened to me on all my goes of the stand. Had another attempt where I got my hand bumped to the middle arete hold and then my left hand on the crimp pinged inexplicably - WTF?!

Didn't even feel powered out on these last moves so to drop it due to "unforced errors" is galling. That was session 5 so I have to keep telling myself that the eventual tick will be all the more satisfying for being hard won.

Much skin rehab needed now as I lost a load on the last attempt.

Did some golfer's elbow exercises in the afternoon.

[Muenchener]

STG: Get through half term family snowboarding trip without anybody suffering from:
(a) multiple fractures
(b) bronchial fever
(c) bruised ribs
(d) expensive damage to avy beacons
yyfy

Family holiday in Ötztal. M jnr understandably having major confidence problems getting back on the horse board after his big crash in December, so much time spent cruising slowly on easy runs. Good chance to practice riding switch, and learn some super-rad tricks such as ollies where the board actually leaves the ground.

M: Snowboarding. 
T: Snowboarding.
W: rest day
T: Snowboarding.
F: Snowboarding.
S: Snowboarding.
S: Boulderwelt. Feeling weak, nothing ticked. Otoh my target ciruits have been up for a couple of months now, so the only things I have left to do are things I find hard. And I did moves/links on a couple of projects that I haven't managed before so: progress. Good.
Weighted pull-ups 4 x 3 x 20kg. Failure on last set.

[shark]

Thanks csl

11.3-6

M.
T. AM Randallisation. Max finger strength and Lattice board workout
W.
T. AM. First day on grit this year.Beautiful day. Good temp. Not windy. Met Nick C there. Tried Brad Pit - no progress. Moved to Burbage to go on Blind Date but sun out so went on West Side, Forgot sequence but got to third sidepull. Had a go at Nose too but didnt do it either. Eve Foundry Wave. Went on new level 2's. Did a few. Failed on a couple. Tweaked the back of my knee heelhooking. Went on campus board.
F.
S. AM Met Dolly at Burbage at 9.40am Warmed up then went to Remergence. Cloudy freezing and no wind where we were. Made fantastic progress on Blind Date - almost did it  Touched second slot with right hand and my left foot popped. Dolly made good progress on Blind Ali. Just us at Remergence from 10am till 1pm. On a Saturday. In primo conditions. Where was everyone else?
S. AM Picked up Stu. Sunny so decided to go direct to eatswood rather than via Remergence. Lovely at eatswood. Not been there for ages. Tried the Reverse and felt stronger on it than ever. Reworked the moves and had two good redpoint goes falling off the crux section after the niche. Stu did Rubble Rouser despite a tweaked finger. I filmed it on my camera but unfortunately ran out of memory (iphone alzheimers). Sorry Stu.   

Results of Tom's tests on Tuesday were that I was fairly well balanced but below par (for my grade) across all the various tests so no obvious stand out weak links other than AeroPower (2mins+ work of hard climbing).

Surprised than it in the 4+years since the last test that I had only gained 3kg extra finger strength but I now realise that was probably each arm so not so shoddy. The score was 88.9% of body weight on each arm (on Toms edge) but if my fighting weight is achieved then that would be 92% although this is still off the 95% which is typical for an aspiring 8b climber (one who can do it in 10 sessions) My lattice board max effort was 40 moves (76secs) compared to 31 previously. So whilst I need to improve in all areas focussing on AeroPower is the main thing which is also relevant to the redpoint time period for doing the Oak. And fingerboarding. And weight loss. Lost 3lbs this week already. 7lbs to go.   

Nice pic from Stu of me on 'rest' of the Reverse:

[Footwork]

Thought I'd join powerclub to be more serious about shoulder rehab.

STG: Shoulder
MTG: Shoulder
LTG: Climb without pain and at 100%

M. Research question released at 9am. 48 hour deadline. 10 hours sat hunched at my laptop reading cases.
T. Spent 13 hours hunched again getting more stressed as deadline loomed. Submitted at 3.30 a.m
W. Got out of bed late. Revised for online exam to be sat by Friday 5pm.
T. Smashed revision and sat exam in afternoon, hoping to climb Friday.
F. Didn't go climbing, felt whacked. A bit of shoulder stretching.
S. Went winter climbing in the lakes. Left Leeds just before 4am. Back 12 hours later. Shattered.
S. At last some serious rehab. 30mins stretching. 1hr therabanding. 15 mins lifting bottles of water.

Next week it's rehab everyday!

[nai]

M - fingerboard & 1/2 AnCap
T - AeroPow circuits - same circuit as last week, performed better
w
T - AeroPow boulders at the Works rather than the Wave, didn't work anything like as hard as usual.
F - HI AeroCap.
s
S - 1/2 AnCap.

Start of the final week of the training phase, then a taper and into performance mode.

[36chambers]

Welcome to Power Club Will and Footwork

STG: exorcist short
MTG: font training
LTG: 8B

M: Limit bouldering on the 50 board
T: Free lunchtime play at the edge wall
W: Afternoon at Almscliff trying exorcist. No wind, blue skies, greasy holds, sunbathing between attempts. Shouldn't have bothered really. Just as the sun set I got to my previous high point twice but I was way past my peak by then. Hopefully it'll feel relatively piss next time I try it on a cold day.
T:
F:
S: Limit bouldering 50 board, working through other people's problems
S: Whitehouses. Cheating conditions. Somehow sent Whitefinger 7C effectively as a warm up and then Bush Bully 7B shortly afterwards. Quite lucky as we were snowed off an hour later. Had a dabble on some of the harder problems and I'm psyched to return. Got home feeling fresh so 5 sets on the fingerboard.

[Dolly]

M Back sore after jumping off at the FBO and was coming down with something so didnt do a full day at work. Did a HIT sess then felt good so went to the gym to do some easy routes. Bent over to pick up my t shirt and my back went in to spasm. Tried to stretch it out and did 10 routes but it wasnt great.
T Back worse but got some prescription strength codeine from GP. Beastmaker in the evening
W Back not great but did all the level 1s on the Wave at lunchtime. Battered.
T HIT
F Pilates at Pure gym for the first time. Came out with my back feeling 90% normal - like some sort of magic voodoo
S Burbage North with Shark -  see his post for details. He soooo nearly did BD. Had a good first session on Blind Ali, but couldn't use much of the beta from Dave's video as he's a) taller and b) stronger than me. Found it quite hard, but its now "on my list" as the moves are very good. Only had one argument with Shark about fashion and he didn't even mention the new Armani T shirt I was wearing. Ran part of the way back from the match if that counts.
S HIT


Now my back is feeling a bit better I can do a few more Wave lunchtime sessions. Would love to have gone lamping with Shark but got to work late on Mon, Tues, Weds. I overcompensated for dry January this week, but I'll reign it back in again now.

[shark]

Only had one argument with Shark about fashion and he didn't even mention the new Armani T shirt I was wearing.

I was hoping it was a cheap knock-off but didn't dare ask. I was checking out the seams and stitching for clues but didn't come to definitive conclusion.

[shurt]

Stg: get fit for Spain,  do routes outside as much as possible beforehand
Mtg: 7b+ sport, E4, f7a+
Ltg: 8a sport

Mon: can’t remember
Tues: don’t think I did anything
Wed: worked long day lots of lifting of wood
Thurs: another long day ditto managed brief session at Sea Mills. Did easy traverse for warm up for first time and then nearly did harder version. Felt trashed so left.
Fri: nothing
Sat: 4 sets of pull ups 5, 8, 7
Sun: 3 sets of PE fingerboard with increased pull ups for the last two sets. Failed right at the end.

Not as good a week as last one but things feel on an upwards trajectory.

[csl]

although this is still off the 95% which is typical for an aspiring 8b climber (one who can do it in 10 sessions)   

How big is the edge? I'm intrigued I would have assumed an 8b climber would likely be able to hang one armed on campus rung size holds, i guess it must be smaller.

[shark]

 

although this is still off the 95% which is typical for an aspiring 8b climber (one who can do it in 10 sessions)   

How big is the edge? I'm intrigued I would have assumed an 8b climber would likely be able to hang one armed on campus rung size holds, i guess it must be smaller.

It is first joint ie bigger than a campus rung. Maybe you are strong for your grade

[AJM]

although this is still off the 95% which is typical for an aspiring 8b climber (one who can do it in 10 sessions)   

How big is the edge? I'm intrigued I would have assumed an 8b climber would likely be able to hang one armed on campus rung size holds, i guess it must be smaller.

It is first joint ie bigger than a campus rung. Maybe you are strong for your grade

Indoor V8 as a stg, 7c as a mtg and 8a as a ltg says "strong" to me.

Your test scores though aren't too far away from mine so I clearly need to try a bit harder. I was about 90% and 44 moves iirc.

[T_B]

85.2Kg

M - Foundry lunch. Light bouldering. Finger feeling better, any soreness more in the A4 pulley.
T - Foundry lunch. Inc front 2 in #7 5 x 7 and then 6 x 7. Front 3 #10 3 x 7 just and 2 x 7. 5Kg assisted right hand 10 secs on #14 and left hand 9 secs #5. 10 mins general moving. P.M. Big rings sess. 7 x different mainly core exercises.
W -
T - School lunch. Light bouldering. Had a quick campus and that felt OK on finger, but only did 1-3-6. Overall finger felt fine on most stuff, just a little weak/vulnerable. P.M. Running: Owler Tor / Higgar / Apparent N and back down main Burb valley trail 9.3Km / 185m of ascent
F - School lunch. Campussing 1-4-7 on both arms (hard pushing down with left hand cos of finger). Tested finger on 50deg and it felt like I could pull on the Total Recoil hold : )
S - Plantation. Warmed up and had a look at HtY sit but still can't get past move 1. Then had a quick look at Joker, but skin quickly peeling. To BP. First tried this circa 2000 and needless to say I find it desperate. Only last yr I worked out that I was always too front on. So, have only previously touched and briefly held the sidepull once. Slowly made progress getting sidepull each time and then pulling through, then had a go slapping the jug and taking a load of skin off. Then had the dab go  then overall got into slapping position half a dozen times. So, I now know I can do it, just need to sort out the last bit of movement. Pretty psyched as it was always one I thought I'd never do due to being too big/inflexible.

Running again mid-week this wk. In f/board test can now hang half crimped, so finger nearly there, though some soreness still in A4 and can't fully crimp yet.

[csl]

AJM - its a funny spread because I live in London so don't really get to go redpoint stuff as I'm not back at the same crag often. I have climbed 7c for the last 3 or 4 years and onsighted 7b+, so hopefully its more an issue of not being injured and making the time to try an 8a which puts it as a LTG. 

I'd get 90-95% on that test though, which is funny as I always thought I had very weak fingers.

[Nibile]

Is it a one arm hang test?
Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?

[Nibile]

P.s.

Power Club
STG - board projects.

Mon - dumbbell complex, snatch complex x3; hill sprints. Heavy.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing with power recruitment. Project went down in front of girlfriend. Mega fingery, Jesus! Dumbbell complex, rings. Overall tired.
Thu - little weights, climbing class.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing. Mixed session, felt brutally strong on isolation moves, but was a bit sketchy on the links. Terrible skin and friction. Big progress on another project. Max snatch high pulls. Brilliant.
Sun - front lever pulls; standing ab wheel x2; kneeling ab wheel with pauses x2; board climbing, two problems pausing 5" on each move, cool, 1'25" of continuous climbing with no shakeouts. Pumped but completed both. Clean high pulls; push-press. Big session, max intensity.

Good week all in all, but all the projecting is wearing me down a bit. Blimey it's stressful. Need some rest.
Already making plans for the future, it's a bit unlikely that I'll climb all my projects this winter, so I'm thinking ahead about the Summer training. 16 degrees already at the board. FFS!
Plus, I decided to have a week of just climbing every three weeks of normal training with climbing and weights.

[jwi]

Is it a one arm hang test?
Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?

Also, on the test, do you hang front on or sideways? For how long time?

I very much doubt I'd achieve 88% on a 18mm campus edge, front on, for 5 s.

[Andy F V2.0]

About time I joined up.
STG None to speak of, but touching rock for the first time in 3 months would be a start.
MTG 8a in the Peak. Unleashing/Powerplant, boulder 7C not at Trowbarrow
VLTG The Yorkshire Ripper, boulder 7C+

Sun The Manchester Depot, lots of volume, did a fair few of the purples
Mon
Tues The Hangar, warmed up, felt a shoulder tweak, left after 45 minutes
Wed Shoulder still tweak
Thurs As Wed
Fri Shoulder seems better, Hangar session. Did all the new stuff upto 7A, but one felt very stiff, more like 7A+/B
Sat
Sun The Manchester Depot, 4+ hours session, progress on more purples, left elbow felt twingey ar times, need to watch this one.

This week get back to weighted hangs and pull ups (+20kg) and push ups. Hopefully get out at some point.

[Nibile]

I very much doubt I'd achieve 88% on a 18mm campus edge, front on, for 5 s.

They've said it's bigger than that. First joint. Whatever that means in cm. 
Size aside, I'd like to know if it must be a specific prehension or it's just hanging the hold in any way.
Thanks.

[ashtond6]

Goals ????? Changing every week

M - Rest

T - AW, partner bailed so autobelays and bouldering, doing x3 laps each time ready for Spain in 5 weeks. Hardest link 6c/+-6b+-6b

W - Loads of physio as injuries really rearing up. Upping the weight now as the theraband doesn't seem to be doing it

T - quick trip to Broomgrove Wall, really surprised with the quality of the main traverse. Seems way to hard to be 7b+

F - rest & more physio

S - Stanage, nice & quiet but seemed a bit warm, really struggled to hold the pocket on Satin, when locked off on the crimps as my tips were sweaty.
Ended up at Broomgrove again, think i've got all the moves now, but only managed the crux in isolation once!

S - Millstone area, highlights being Technical Master and getting close to Green Death start. General consenses was that GD was more like 6C+/7A than 6B!


Being in Sheffield midweek is new to me & i'm definatley short of partners.  if anyone needs some indoor or outdoor partners let me know!

[nai]

I'd say the edge is about the size of a medium campus rung. 25mm or so

you hang it four finger, open or semi crimped using a pulley to stay front-on.  Tom mentions in his podcast that even folk who are adding extra weight use the pulley with 1kg loaded to ensure they stay straight.

[rodma]

I'd say the edge is about the size of a medium campus rung. 25mm or so

you hang it four finger, open or semi crimped using a pulley to stay front-on.  Tom mentions in his podcast that even folk who are adding extra weight use the pulley with 1kg loaded to ensure they stay straight.

the cheating little blighters