[petejh]

Making a hasty plan to check out some climbing areas in Ireland Monday-Wednesday next week with N.Ireland-based girlfriend. Dependent on the weather not being too grim. Too far out at the moment to know but it looks like possibly a period of dry cool weather over the weekend and into next week.. We've got Sunday night to Wednesday night.

I've not climbed in Ireland/N.Ireland before but know the North well.. Last weekend we had an explore around the Mournes in the rain and now can't wait to go back in the dry; I'm guessing most Mournes stuff will be too exposed to the wind/too high up for comfort at this time of year.

Looking for beta/suggestions for areas to go with a novice, that get any sun going, won't be too exposed to the wind, with low grades - up to HS I guess, perhaps easy VS..

Have got Dave Flanagan's brilliant select guide and the bouldering guide. Wicklow Mountains and Donegal coast are both catching my eye - Donegal looks amazing for wild camping!

Obviously Fairhead is amazing but thinking the two VS's on the western end will be too chilly, despite catching some afternoon sun?

Wondering about these options:
Pine Tree Buttress on Luggala
Expectancy, Quartz Gully on Glendolough.
Great Gully Ridge, Glennmalure
Bouldering in the Glendolough valley (any decent easy stuff for a newbie?) Is it possible to rent a couple of pads from somewhere?
Pigeon Rock, Mournes
Malin Beg, Donegal
Gola Island


Keen for some adventure but don't want to traumatise her too much 

Also keen to hear about good doss spots/wild camping.

[TobyD]

Ask Grimer or Brian Macalinden? Brian's on facebook, or you could email him through the Climbing Works site possibly, I don't know if he goes on here. I can ask either if you don't know them

[bigd942]

I live in Ballycastle, their will be no real difference between Fairhead and anywhere else to be honest, depends how much cold you can handle. Frost on the car this-morning but had a good bit of sun yesterday afternoon. Marconis Cove isn't far away from the Prow and is shorter (20m), Fat City and Cat's Whiskers are both good at VS and Drimadoon at HVS is good as well. Ramore Head and Dunsevrick are 10-20min away and plenty at the lower grade as well, not as good quality as Marconi's/Fairhead but stilll ok.

[Muesli]

If it is a bit wet you could try the potato cave in Cushendun

[Schnell]

At Fairhead as long as the wind isn't from the north/north west you'd be fine at the west end on the prow or those two long VSs, Girona and something else.

In the Mournes, yes I think pretty much everywhere is exposed, even places like Lower Cove which you'd expect to be a bit more sheltered. I saying that it's not been nearly as windy the last day or two so it might be lovely up there.

Don't know much about Donegal really, although it has been less windy I imagine there's still a decent swell so not sure what the story would be getting the ferry to Gola.

Yes to easy bouldering in Glendalough. You can definitely rent pads from Gravity, one of the walls in Dublin. And the easy long multi-pitches you mention are also good though they've all got long walk-ins. Actually I don't know about the Luggala one, I've never done it.

[slackline]

I've climbed once at Glendalough which was really nice place, spoilt slightly by the helicopter ferrying aggregate up the valley for pathing.  The route I definitely recall doing was Sarcophagus as it was recommended and didn't disappoint, a great *** HVS 5a (easy to string the first two pitches together).  We did something else first though and it may well have been Quartz Gully which was also very good, nothing too challenging.

Only walked through the boulder field so can't comment but there was plenty to go at.

[SA Chris]

I remember having a great day out at Glendalough, great spot, I think we did Quartz Gully too, and I think Diedre  which has two great pitches. A lot of the routes have variant pitches so if you wanted to lead something a bit harder then lower off from the belay and clean, then do an easier variant to the same belay for your lass to second it can easily be done.

[petejh]

Good beta, thanks all!

[Danny]

Alright Pete—drop me a line if you're about! I'm pretty snowed with work and haven't been climbing a great deal recently, but I can beta you up, guidebook you up, chuck you extra pads, etc.

My 2p:

On a good day the Mournes can be prime, even at this time of year. Lower cove the best bet for shelter, sun if it's going, and amenable grades. Annalong Buttress good for a bumble too.

Pigeon: handy. Some good routes, but not Mourne stlye. Hen will give you a better flavour and has plenty of easy stuff.

Malin Beg: utter shite.

Gola: brilliant for the easy-mid grade pitches. Imagine Stanage style and scale granite sea cliffs. Ferry route is sheltered from big swells.

Glendo: best noob bouldering venue, with classics through the grades.

The Head: I think you need to be E1 and up to make the best of it at this time of year. I would avoid, despite aforementioned classic VSs.

Carrickfin is an amazing spot for a quiet camp and boulder.

Muckros: well worth a visit if you can catch it dry—joyous, unique thuggery and enough in the easier grades to keep the VSer occupied. I quite like Dungloon on Inishowen too.

Plenty more...PM me etc.


 

[chillax]

Weathers been pretty cack around Dublin the last while. If you do make it down to Wicklow I wouldn't head to Luggala this time of year. Would be very seepy/covered in shite. Glendalough would be a good bet. Great easy and hard bouldering, and some nice sheltered easy routes around Expectancy slab(V Diff to S if memory serves). Some classic 2 or 3 pitch VS's on the main face too.

[Grubes]

considering a trip in june.

Is there any good vdiff - severe destinations to take some friends who dont climb often?

[SA Chris]

Yep, Glendalough is probably best bet. Beautiful spot too. Hopefully not too midgy in June.

[chillax]

Wicklow maountains or Donegal coast would be best. As Chris said, Glendalough is great. Enough classic Diff to HVS's for a few days, you're near Dublin and the pubs are good. Donegal has more volume of climbing, but its the wettest part of the country. The coast is usually better than inland, but its still a risk. And while its beautiful up there (and the pubs are also great), you're miles from anywhere if you want to do anything other than climb and drink.

[Dave Flanagan]

I think Donegal is your best bet. Huge variety of climbing but lots of easy access single pitch crags particularly around Cruit that would be ideal for a beginner, the weather does seem to be pretty good there as well, certainly relatively to a few miles inland. Glendo is great but the best routes are VS and upwards and multi-pitch, there isn't much below that. Some nice easier climbing in the Mournes as well.