[southeastkieran]

Crook of the elbow, front to the elbow, 'Font' elbow pain could be conceivably related to any of Brachialis, Biceps tendon or Brachoiradialis. Sausage on here thinks it's mainly related to shoulder issues. Perhaps different things are happening in different people, explaining why one treatment doesn't help everyone.

The underlying effects of training load, climbing style, and so on shouldn't be underestimated. Dave Macleod's book is good on this.

More in this previous thread amongst several others.

That's the thing, it's so common in climbers and unfortunately not always the same. I'm definitely going to take a lot at Dave Macleod's book, everyone speaks very highly of it.

[TheTwig]

The book will save your life.

I climb at Karma all the time! The people there climbing 'hard' with permanently sore elbows could definitely climb harder if they took the time to actually sort their injuries out, trust me. Some of the biggest overtrainers I've seen all seem to climb there! Maybe I'll see you around 

[dave k]

Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started?

Good question. Definitely not training as often/as intensively. I have had pretty intensive trips (six days on etc) which previously would have caused a bicep flair up.  I have also done 10 bouldering comps this autumn which are brutal sessions and would definitely not have been possible 5 years ago.

I imagine if I got on a campus board or started training one armer's again it would flare up rapidly.

[southeastkieran]

The book will save your life.

I climb at Karma all the time! The people there climbing 'hard' with permanently sore elbows could definitely climb harder if they took the time to actually sort their injuries out, trust me. Some of the biggest overtrainers I've seen all seem to climb there! Maybe I'll see you around 

Ahh no way! Small world, it's lovely centre though. Haha very true, but to be honest it's way too easy to overtrain and push yourself through the pain. I was climbing with it quite sore for a few days and they all seemed to shrug it off and say that they also have sore elbows but climb through it - kinda made me feel like I was being a big girl about it all!

[southeastkieran]

Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started?

Good question. Definitely not training as often/as intensively. I have had pretty intensive trips (six days on etc) which previously would have caused a bicep flair up.  I have also done 10 bouldering comps this autumn which are brutal sessions and would definitely not have been possible 5 years ago.

I imagine if I got on a campus board or started training one armer's again it would flare up rapidly.

Yeah, I recognise now that I just got a bit too enthusiastic and although it felt great at the time, I wasn't doing myself much justice. Which sucks because I was really starting to break the first barrier I came to and was improving again.

[lagerstarfish]

kinda made me feel like I was being a big girl about it all

careful with the casual sexism there, some right-on fucker will come along and kick you in the bollocks if you're not careful

[tomtom]

kinda made me feel like I was being a big girl about it all

careful with the casual sexism there, some right-on fucker will come along and kick you in the bollocks if you're not careful

Capital C at the start of the sentence you slack fucking bastard.

[southeastkieran]

 

kinda made me feel like I was being a big girl about it all

careful with the casual sexism there, some right-on fucker will come along and kick you in the bollocks if you're not careful

Damn man hahhaa no sexism intended what so ever, most of the girls climb harder than me

[lagerstarfish]

same here

stupid strong females ruining my ego trips

[TheTwig]

I regularly get schooled by the 10-11 year old superstars that climb at White Spider that all seem to be part of the youth bouldering team or something. There actually is a girl that looks about 14 that has bigger biceps than me, WTF!

[southeastkieran]

That's why I love climbing so much, it really has no limits in terms of age, gender or your build. I'm incredibly skinny so find it very amusing when the cocky meatheads think they can just through themselves in at the deep end.

The diversity of the groups I sometimes climb with is crazy, ages between 18-60 both and female and we're climbing the same things... I can't really think of another intense sport that's like that.

[duncan]

I'm definitely going to take a lot at Dave Macleod's book, everyone speaks very highly of it.

As you'd expect from DM, the book is as much about living, climbing and training smarter as fixing injuries. It does have some good first line management ideas too.

ukb review here.

[southeastkieran]

I'm definitely going to take a lot at Dave Macleod's book, everyone speaks very highly of it.

As you'd expect from DM, the book is as much about living, climbing and training smarter as fixing injuries. It does have some good first line management ideas too.

ukb review here.

Thanks Duncan, I'll check out the review 

[SA Chris]

What's Eblow anyway, is it the cocaine equivalent of e cigarettes?

[southeastkieran]

What's Eblow anyway, is it the cocaine equivalent of e cigarettes?

Hahah very good, I was just waiting for a comment like this