Shark: thanks man, I've got some yogurt pots in the freezer as we speak, it didn't go unnoticed Andy W: so your stretching managed to almost put an end to it? Have you continued climbing as hard as you were when the pain started, or have you slowed it down because of that? I'm getting some physio on Friday so will keep this whole post updated on diagnosis, and hopefully a plan for recoup. paulwelford: around the peak of it I was climbing 4-5 times a week for 2-3 weeks before hurting it. Every session starts with some easy warm ups followed by a climb with V4-V6 problems, then finishing on the circuit board. It's very vague, I was looking to buy a beastmaker but can imagine that type of training wouldn't be very suitable right now. Mark20: that's the thing, it's all good and well icing for short term relief but if it's going to be a reoccurring thing I'd much rather focus on the long term strategy. Aside from the push-ups, what stretches were you finding most effective? Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started? Thanks again everyone, this is a community you can't beat!!
Brachioradialis vs Brachialishttps://www.google.co.uk/search?q=brachialis&rlz=1C9BKJA_enGB590GB590&hl=en-GB&biw=1024&bih=300&prmd=ivsn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiq4oje4-zKAhUM6RQKHcIpA_wQ_AUIBigB#imgrc=30FZX6mpt9SZYM%3ADo you mean brachialis?Seems not to like [image] link
I take boiling hot baths after climbing. Does wonders for loosening up all of the no-doubt heavily scarred tendons in my arms. Seriously. Throw some epsom salts in there, put a training beta podcast on your iPhone or whatever and just chill. Then go do a few sets of rehab/prehab exercises and you are set for the night Out of interest where abouts do you climb? Nobody on here is from the southeast! (england that is)
Quote from: southeastkieran on February 09, 2016, 06:15:55 pmShark: thanks man, I've got some yogurt pots in the freezer as we speak, it didn't go unnoticed Andy W: so your stretching managed to almost put an end to it? Have you continued climbing as hard as you were when the pain started, or have you slowed it down because of that? I'm getting some physio on Friday so will keep this whole post updated on diagnosis, and hopefully a plan for recoup. paulwelford: around the peak of it I was climbing 4-5 times a week for 2-3 weeks before hurting it. Every session starts with some easy warm ups followed by a climb with V4-V6 problems, then finishing on the circuit board. It's very vague, I was looking to buy a beastmaker but can imagine that type of training wouldn't be very suitable right now. Mark20: that's the thing, it's all good and well icing for short term relief but if it's going to be a reoccurring thing I'd much rather focus on the long term strategy. Aside from the push-ups, what stretches were you finding most effective? Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started? Thanks again everyone, this is a community you can't beat!!The eccentric exercises I religiously did for months, did nothing but stretch my tendons, the pain unfortunately remained. I climbed as hard if not harder, with the pain which I have to add is not severe. Following this thread and reading around I'm thinking maybe the issue is my shoulders.
Quote from: Andy W on February 09, 2016, 10:48:17 pmQuote from: southeastkieran on February 09, 2016, 06:15:55 pmShark: thanks man, I've got some yogurt pots in the freezer as we speak, it didn't go unnoticed Andy W: so your stretching managed to almost put an end to it? Have you continued climbing as hard as you were when the pain started, or have you slowed it down because of that? I'm getting some physio on Friday so will keep this whole post updated on diagnosis, and hopefully a plan for recoup. paulwelford: around the peak of it I was climbing 4-5 times a week for 2-3 weeks before hurting it. Every session starts with some easy warm ups followed by a climb with V4-V6 problems, then finishing on the circuit board. It's very vague, I was looking to buy a beastmaker but can imagine that type of training wouldn't be very suitable right now. Mark20: that's the thing, it's all good and well icing for short term relief but if it's going to be a reoccurring thing I'd much rather focus on the long term strategy. Aside from the push-ups, what stretches were you finding most effective? Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started? Thanks again everyone, this is a community you can't beat!!The eccentric exercises I religiously did for months, did nothing but stretch my tendons, the pain unfortunately remained. I climbed as hard if not harder, with the pain which I have to add is not severe. Following this thread and reading around I'm thinking maybe the issue is my shoulders.Interesting, my only concern the climbing through the pain is that you're almost definitely doing more harm than good and could potentially have terrible ling term effects. Saying that, so many people at my local centre climb with sore elbows, I guess it's just knowing your limits and stopping before you tear something.
Quote from: southeastkieran on February 10, 2016, 09:11:35 amQuote from: Andy W on February 09, 2016, 10:48:17 pmQuote from: southeastkieran on February 09, 2016, 06:15:55 pmShark: thanks man, I've got some yogurt pots in the freezer as we speak, it didn't go unnoticed Andy W: so your stretching managed to almost put an end to it? Have you continued climbing as hard as you were when the pain started, or have you slowed it down because of that? I'm getting some physio on Friday so will keep this whole post updated on diagnosis, and hopefully a plan for recoup. paulwelford: around the peak of it I was climbing 4-5 times a week for 2-3 weeks before hurting it. Every session starts with some easy warm ups followed by a climb with V4-V6 problems, then finishing on the circuit board. It's very vague, I was looking to buy a beastmaker but can imagine that type of training wouldn't be very suitable right now. Mark20: that's the thing, it's all good and well icing for short term relief but if it's going to be a reoccurring thing I'd much rather focus on the long term strategy. Aside from the push-ups, what stretches were you finding most effective? Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started? Thanks again everyone, this is a community you can't beat!!The eccentric exercises I religiously did for months, did nothing but stretch my tendons, the pain unfortunately remained. I climbed as hard if not harder, with the pain which I have to add is not severe. Following this thread and reading around I'm thinking maybe the issue is my shoulders.Interesting, my only concern the climbing through the pain is that you're almost definitely doing more harm than good and could potentially have terrible ling term effects. Saying that, so many people at my local centre climb with sore elbows, I guess it's just knowing your limits and stopping before you tear something.Just to qualify, the pain isn't severe generally, only if i do prolonged deep locks and to be honest if I didn't climb through a degree of pain, I'd probably never climb again. I'm 51 and have quite a few aches and pains! What are the terrible long term effects you mention?
Crook of the elbow, front to the elbow, 'Font' elbow pain could be conceivably related to any of Brachialis, Biceps tendon or Brachoiradialis. Sausage on here thinks it's mainly related to shoulder issues. Perhaps different things are happening in different people, explaining why one treatment doesn't help everyone.The underlying effects of training load, climbing style, and so on shouldn't be underestimated. Dave Macleod's book is good on this.More in this previous thread amongst several others.
The book will save your life.I climb at Karma all the time! The people there climbing 'hard' with permanently sore elbows could definitely climb harder if they took the time to actually sort their injuries out, trust me. Some of the biggest overtrainers I've seen all seem to climb there! Maybe I'll see you around
Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started? Good question. Definitely not training as often/as intensively. I have had pretty intensive trips (six days on etc) which previously would have caused a bicep flair up. I have also done 10 bouldering comps this autumn which are brutal sessions and would definitely not have been possible 5 years ago. I imagine if I got on a campus board or started training one armer's again it would flare up rapidly.
kinda made me feel like I was being a big girl about it all
Quote from: southeastkieran on February 10, 2016, 04:52:21 pm kinda made me feel like I was being a big girl about it allcareful with the casual sexism there, some right-on fucker will come along and kick you in the bollocks if you're not careful
I'm definitely going to take a lot at Dave Macleod's book, everyone speaks very highly of it.
Quote from: southeastkieran on February 10, 2016, 10:52:06 amI'm definitely going to take a lot at Dave Macleod's book, everyone speaks very highly of it.As you'd expect from DM, the book is as much about living, climbing and training smarter as fixing injuries. It does have some good first line management ideas too.ukb review here.
What's Eblow anyway, is it the cocaine equivalent of e cigarettes?