Shark: thanks man, I've got some yogurt pots in the freezer as we speak, it didn't go unnoticed Andy W: so your stretching managed to almost put an end to it? Have you continued climbing as hard as you were when the pain started, or have you slowed it down because of that? I'm getting some physio on Friday so will keep this whole post updated on diagnosis, and hopefully a plan for recoup. paulwelford: around the peak of it I was climbing 4-5 times a week for 2-3 weeks before hurting it. Every session starts with some easy warm ups followed by a climb with V4-V6 problems, then finishing on the circuit board. It's very vague, I was looking to buy a beastmaker but can imagine that type of training wouldn't be very suitable right now. Mark20: that's the thing, it's all good and well icing for short term relief but if it's going to be a reoccurring thing I'd much rather focus on the long term strategy. Aside from the push-ups, what stretches were you finding most effective? Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started? Thanks again everyone, this is a community you can't beat!!
Brachioradialis vs Brachialishttps://www.google.co.uk/search?q=brachialis&rlz=1C9BKJA_enGB590GB590&hl=en-GB&biw=1024&bih=300&prmd=ivsn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiq4oje4-zKAhUM6RQKHcIpA_wQ_AUIBigB#imgrc=30FZX6mpt9SZYM%3ADo you mean brachialis?Seems not to like [image] link
I take boiling hot baths after climbing. Does wonders for loosening up all of the no-doubt heavily scarred tendons in my arms. Seriously. Throw some epsom salts in there, put a training beta podcast on your iPhone or whatever and just chill. Then go do a few sets of rehab/prehab exercises and you are set for the night Out of interest where abouts do you climb? Nobody on here is from the southeast! (england that is)
Quote from: southeastkieran on February 09, 2016, 06:15:55 pmShark: thanks man, I've got some yogurt pots in the freezer as we speak, it didn't go unnoticed Andy W: so your stretching managed to almost put an end to it? Have you continued climbing as hard as you were when the pain started, or have you slowed it down because of that? I'm getting some physio on Friday so will keep this whole post updated on diagnosis, and hopefully a plan for recoup. paulwelford: around the peak of it I was climbing 4-5 times a week for 2-3 weeks before hurting it. Every session starts with some easy warm ups followed by a climb with V4-V6 problems, then finishing on the circuit board. It's very vague, I was looking to buy a beastmaker but can imagine that type of training wouldn't be very suitable right now. Mark20: that's the thing, it's all good and well icing for short term relief but if it's going to be a reoccurring thing I'd much rather focus on the long term strategy. Aside from the push-ups, what stretches were you finding most effective? Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started? Thanks again everyone, this is a community you can't beat!!The eccentric exercises I religiously did for months, did nothing but stretch my tendons, the pain unfortunately remained. I climbed as hard if not harder, with the pain which I have to add is not severe. Following this thread and reading around I'm thinking maybe the issue is my shoulders.
Quote from: Andy W on February 09, 2016, 10:48:17 pmQuote from: southeastkieran on February 09, 2016, 06:15:55 pmShark: thanks man, I've got some yogurt pots in the freezer as we speak, it didn't go unnoticed Andy W: so your stretching managed to almost put an end to it? Have you continued climbing as hard as you were when the pain started, or have you slowed it down because of that? I'm getting some physio on Friday so will keep this whole post updated on diagnosis, and hopefully a plan for recoup. paulwelford: around the peak of it I was climbing 4-5 times a week for 2-3 weeks before hurting it. Every session starts with some easy warm ups followed by a climb with V4-V6 problems, then finishing on the circuit board. It's very vague, I was looking to buy a beastmaker but can imagine that type of training wouldn't be very suitable right now. Mark20: that's the thing, it's all good and well icing for short term relief but if it's going to be a reoccurring thing I'd much rather focus on the long term strategy. Aside from the push-ups, what stretches were you finding most effective? Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started? Thanks again everyone, this is a community you can't beat!!The eccentric exercises I religiously did for months, did nothing but stretch my tendons, the pain unfortunately remained. I climbed as hard if not harder, with the pain which I have to add is not severe. Following this thread and reading around I'm thinking maybe the issue is my shoulders.Interesting, my only concern the climbing through the pain is that you're almost definitely doing more harm than good and could potentially have terrible ling term effects. Saying that, so many people at my local centre climb with sore elbows, I guess it's just knowing your limits and stopping before you tear something.
Quote from: southeastkieran on February 10, 2016, 09:11:35 amQuote from: Andy W on February 09, 2016, 10:48:17 pmQuote from: southeastkieran on February 09, 2016, 06:15:55 pmShark: thanks man, I've got some yogurt pots in the freezer as we speak, it didn't go unnoticed Andy W: so your stretching managed to almost put an end to it? Have you continued climbing as hard as you were when the pain started, or have you slowed it down because of that? I'm getting some physio on Friday so will keep this whole post updated on diagnosis, and hopefully a plan for recoup. paulwelford: around the peak of it I was climbing 4-5 times a week for 2-3 weeks before hurting it. Every session starts with some easy warm ups followed by a climb with V4-V6 problems, then finishing on the circuit board. It's very vague, I was looking to buy a beastmaker but can imagine that type of training wouldn't be very suitable right now. Mark20: that's the thing, it's all good and well icing for short term relief but if it's going to be a reoccurring thing I'd much rather focus on the long term strategy. Aside from the push-ups, what stretches were you finding most effective? Dave k: your solution was adjusting technique etc... But are you still climbing 2 times a week? Or are you able to climb 3/4 times like you were when it started? Thanks again everyone, this is a community you can't beat!!The eccentric exercises I religiously did for months, did nothing but stretch my tendons, the pain unfortunately remained. I climbed as hard if not harder, with the pain which I have to add is not severe. Following this thread and reading around I'm thinking maybe the issue is my shoulders.Interesting, my only concern the climbing through the pain is that you're almost definitely doing more harm than good and could potentially have terrible ling term effects. Saying that, so many people at my local centre climb with sore elbows, I guess it's just knowing your limits and stopping before you tear something.Just to qualify, the pain isn't severe generally, only if i do prolonged deep locks and to be honest if I didn't climb through a degree of pain, I'd probably never climb again. I'm 51 and have quite a few aches and pains! What are the terrible long term effects you mention?
