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UKB Power Club week 311 1st Feb - 7th Feb 2016 (Read 16159 times)

Sasquatch

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Missed a week, so here's a double:

STG - Prep new routes for upcoming season, continue training,
MTG - 1 arm pullup, 1-4-7, Spotted Dick Project
LTG - To Bolt...

M - Campus Session - first time on new home campus board, and ring work
T - 45 min Skate Ski, Sore from monday
W - Campus/1 arm work - Stuck 1-4-7 both arms twice....   :dance1:  :shrug: Out of nowhere...
T - Moonboard session - surprisingly good session considering campusing Wed
S - 3 hr Hike with Wife
S - Travel for Work

M - Travel for Work
T - Travel for Work
W - Travel for Work
T - Campus - Felt HEAVY and weak.
F - 30 min cardio on bike trainer
S - Campus,1 arm work, boulder, rings - HARD log session, but felt good.  Managed 1-4-7 on one side, but not the other
S - Ski with Daughter at Special Olympics

two weeks ago I had the very distinct realization that my raw pulling/lockoff strength was a big weakness.  As such, it's now a major focus for my training.

Luke Owens

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M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks

Also did stretching and some rotator cuff/delt dumbell stuff

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press ups
4 x 10 Dorsal Raises
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 12 Bent over flys (5kg)
3 x 15sec L-Hangs (Paddle Legs)

Stretching and Nerve glides

Eve: Plas Power - 15 min ARC Traverse Warm Up

20' Board - Repeated 3 ~7A's and managed to do a 7A+ I'd done a month ago first go today.

45' Board - Did project I'd be trying for the last couple of sessions in about 5 goes, felt really solid on it. Tried the moves on a 7A i've done before and felt really strong on the crux, body tension feels better.

No An-Cap this session in hope to be less tired at the Cave on Thursday...

W: Lunch - Stretching and nerve glides

T: Lunch - Stretching and nerve glides

Eve: Cave - Tried new beta for move I always fall off on the link, beta works great and the move feels a lot easier but it makes the next move harder...

Managed a link from the start and did the move I always fall off but then fell off straight after, progress - albeit small.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Cave - 6th Session on Left Wall - Arms feeling less tight as a result of all the stretching of shoulders and neck, warming up feels easier.

Linked from the start into my new beta and stuck the hold 4 times but now the next move is stopping me...

csl

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How do people manage finger tweaks whilst training?

I've had a new one appear after the weekend - initially only hurt when fully straightening the finger - but after training last night its a bit tender in all positions now.

No swelling, no pain whilst climbing, just a bit sore when i squeeze the finger in certain place.

Current plan is to cut back for a few weeks and do aerocap? Then slowly build back up with fingerboarding till i feel ready to boulder hard again. Any sage advice or good articles i should read?

Three Nine

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Dont squeeze it.

csl

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I knew that was coming!

Will Hunt

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Hello Power Clubbers, I need some advice.

I've now had four sessions on Red Baron Roof. This is the first time I've ever really projected something (other than Underhand which I tried for a long period of time with a crap sequence and then did quickly with the right one) and it feels like an enormous step up in terms of difficulty from anything I've done previously. Its not my style at all. Having said that I'm finding it a very satisfying process and with each session I see significant gains. I don't know whether this is all down to working the moves and doing them more efficiently/learning them/refining beta etc etc or whether it is also making me stronger as well?

I'm now at the stage where I KNOW I can do it - its just a matter of getting a really good link on it. Last night my best attempt saw me fall off trying to match left foot/hand (can't remember which) to the arete, which is pretty close to the end. I failed on it because I just didn't have any power left in the tank to finish the burly 7A+ stand.

So this suggests to me that I need more power endurance - fine. The best training I can think of for this is trying Red Baron Roof, as it would be very difficult for me to replicate how knackered the problem makes me using the pull up bar, fingerboard, and woodie that I have access to. The advantage of having more goes on the problem is that I might actually get a great link on it and tick the thing!

The problem with this is that this problem is really eating my skin in three unusual spots. Left hand palm between the base of my ring and middle fingers, right hand thumb at the MCP joint, left hand thumb on the IP joint. These three places are now open and will take a couple of weeks to heal properly. They're unusual places to lose skin and unusual in that, because I don't require any sensitivity on the rock in these place, I can still climb reasonably well on the problem even when they're taped (with the exception of the palm "split"). However, even when thickly taped, the rock still eats skin - so unless I let the skin recover completely this only going to keep getting worse.

I feel so close now - I don't want to stop trying the problem. If I stop for two weeks, then I might come back to the problem and be completely out of form for it, or at least won't have made the PE gains I need and could have got through trying the problem; but I feel like in the long term, I need to let my skin recover completely to give me a decent shot at it.

If I stop, am I going to doom myself to failure? Or is there a PE routine that somebody can recommend that will simulate the extreme burl of the problem adequately? Lots and lots and lots of pull ups until complete and utter exhaustion?

tomtom

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Stop over thinking it. Sounds like you're at the stage now when you just need a go where it all falls into place. Have a day or two's rest then try again - and repeat. Might be Connies - muscle memory or just getting better at some parts - it'll all fall into place.

Mumra

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Hello Power Clubbers, I need some advice.

I've now had four sessions on Red Baron Roof. This is the first time I've ever really projected something (other than Underhand which I tried for a long period of time with a crap sequence and then did quickly with the right one) and it feels like an enormous step up in terms of difficulty from anything I've done previously. Its not my style at all. Having said that I'm finding it a very satisfying process and with each session I see significant gains. I don't know whether this is all down to working the moves and doing them more efficiently/learning them/refining beta etc etc or whether it is also making me stronger as well?

I'm now at the stage where I KNOW I can do it - its just a matter of getting a really good link on it. Last night my best attempt saw me fall off trying to match left foot/hand (can't remember which) to the arete, which is pretty close to the end. I failed on it because I just didn't have any power left in the tank to finish the burly 7A+ stand.

So this suggests to me that I need more power endurance - fine. The best training I can think of for this is trying Red Baron Roof, as it would be very difficult for me to replicate how knackered the problem makes me using the pull up bar, fingerboard, and woodie that I have access to. The advantage of having more goes on the problem is that I might actually get a great link on it and tick the thing!

The problem with this is that this problem is really eating my skin in three unusual spots. Left hand palm between the base of my ring and middle fingers, right hand thumb at the MCP joint, left hand thumb on the IP joint. These three places are now open and will take a couple of weeks to heal properly. They're unusual places to lose skin and unusual in that, because I don't require any sensitivity on the rock in these place, I can still climb reasonably well on the problem even when they're taped (with the exception of the palm "split"). However, even when thickly taped, the rock still eats skin - so unless I let the skin recover completely this only going to keep getting worse.

I feel so close now - I don't want to stop trying the problem. If I stop for two weeks, then I might come back to the problem and be completely out of form for it, or at least won't have made the PE gains I need and could have got through trying the problem; but I feel like in the long term, I need to let my skin recover completely to give me a decent shot at it.

If I stop, am I going to doom myself to failure? Or is there a PE routine that somebody can recommend that will simulate the extreme burl of the problem adequately? Lots and lots and lots of pull ups until complete and utter exhaustion?

Give it up......take up gardening or something less stressful. This is clearly not your sport

nai

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Stop over thinking it. Sounds like you're at the stage now when you just need a go where it all falls into place. Have a day or two's rest then try again - and repeat. Might be Connies - muscle memory or just getting better at some parts - it'll all fall into place.

Spoken like a true anti-trainer.

Are you powering out or pumping out?  It looks like it takes a minute or so to climb, that's probably AnCap territory rather than PE. Bit of a  :worms:

Obvious thing, make sure you have the stand absolutely wired.

You're idea of lots of pullups might work, basic but effective. how about this pullup intervals workout on the BM slopers

http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/training-muscular-endurance-part-1.

Try chucking in some  pressups after your pullups for added burl.


ashtond6

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Anyone else looking forward to mumra getting blocked?
 

tomtom

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And climb faster...

nai

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And remember to breath...

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk


webbo

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Anyone else looking forward to mumra getting blocked?
No

tommytwotone

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Stop over thinking it. Sounds like you're at the stage now when you just need a go where it all falls into place. Have a day or two's rest then try again - and repeat. Might be Connies - muscle memory or just getting better at some parts - it'll all fall into place.

Spoken like a true anti-trainer.

Are you powering out or pumping out?  It looks like it takes a minute or so to climb, that's probably AnCap territory rather than PE. Bit of a  :worms:

Obvious thing, make sure you have the stand absolutely wired.

You're idea of lots of pullups might work, basic but effective. how about this pullup intervals workout on the BM slopers

http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/training-muscular-endurance-part-1.

Try chucking in some  pressups after your pullups for added burl.


I remember when I was trying Gorilla Warfare and was struggling for endurance / oomph to finish it off I did a whole load of pullup / frenchie workouts. Seemed to help.




dave

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Hello Power Clubbers, I need some advice.

I've now had four sessions on Red Baron Roof. This is the first time I've ever really projected something (other than Underhand which I tried for a long period of time with a crap sequence and then did quickly with the right one) and it feels like an enormous step up in terms of difficulty from anything I've done previously. Its not my style at all. Having said that I'm finding it a very satisfying process and with each session I see significant gains. I don't know whether this is all down to working the moves and doing them more efficiently/learning them/refining beta etc etc or whether it is also making me stronger as well?

I'm now at the stage where I KNOW I can do it - its just a matter of getting a really good link on it. Last night my best attempt saw me fall off trying to match left foot/hand (can't remember which) to the arete, which is pretty close to the end. I failed on it because I just didn't have any power left in the tank to finish the burly 7A+ stand.

So this suggests to me that I need more power endurance - fine. The best training I can think of for this is trying Red Baron Roof, as it would be very difficult for me to replicate how knackered the problem makes me using the pull up bar, fingerboard, and woodie that I have access to. The advantage of having more goes on the problem is that I might actually get a great link on it and tick the thing!

The problem with this is that this problem is really eating my skin in three unusual spots. Left hand palm between the base of my ring and middle fingers, right hand thumb at the MCP joint, left hand thumb on the IP joint. These three places are now open and will take a couple of weeks to heal properly. They're unusual places to lose skin and unusual in that, because I don't require any sensitivity on the rock in these place, I can still climb reasonably well on the problem even when they're taped (with the exception of the palm "split"). However, even when thickly taped, the rock still eats skin - so unless I let the skin recover completely this only going to keep getting worse.

I feel so close now - I don't want to stop trying the problem. If I stop for two weeks, then I might come back to the problem and be completely out of form for it, or at least won't have made the PE gains I need and could have got through trying the problem; but I feel like in the long term, I need to let my skin recover completely to give me a decent shot at it.

If I stop, am I going to doom myself to failure? Or is there a PE routine that somebody can recommend that will simulate the extreme burl of the problem adequately? Lots and lots and lots of pull ups until complete and utter exhaustion?

Or just get a bit stronger/more efficient on the start, so you won't be as knackered for the finish. If you can get more efficient on the start that's a quick win that doesn't require any training, just beta refining.

tomtom

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Footwork

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Will, you do climb quite slowly. Getting it all wired and climbing quickly does help a lot! 4x4's on steep problems at the depot?

Edit: I enjoy Mumra's posts

36chambers

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Anyone else looking forward to mumra getting blocked?
No

No from me too.

I actually wish Mumra would post more often :hug:


Hello Power Clubbers, I need some advice...

Welcome to the world of projecting. You're pass the honeymoon stage with RBR and now it's getting serious. This purgatory-esque period should not be underestimated, it ruins families and can damn even the greatest of people. (Just be glad you're not sport climbing). 


Will, you do climb quite slowly. Getting it all wired and climbing quickly does help a lot!

+1

Watching back the send footage of myself on Dialectics I noticed that I got to the break in 40 s, whereas on all the other attempts I got there in at least 50 s. It made all the difference. Although I wasn't consciously climbing quicker, I just nailed every move perfectly...

...so I suppose my point is that you should nail the moves perfectly :-\

Will Hunt

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Watching back the send footage of myself on Dialectics

Less about your pre-sex foreplay routine, please.


you should nail the moves perfectly :-\

I might just try that.



So no thoughts about whether two weeks off it will put me back more than trying it with shit bleedy skin?

webbo

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Do something that makes you stronger/fitter while your skin recovers.

tomtom

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Success vs failure attempts for me on Weedkiller... learned to move faster/more efficient sequence in the first part and leave myself enough to finish..



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Interesting way to compare it. As far as I can see you were only 2 secs quicker on the start and spent longer on the jug. I doubt pace had much to do with it.

Wood FT

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climbing fast is the path to true righteousness Will


Tom - Agreed. once I had the start nailed I went so fast on weedkiller, man isn't supposed to sloth around at that angle.


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climbing fast is the path to true righteousness Will

Tom - Agreed. once I had the start nailed I went so fast on weedkiller, man isn't supposed to sloth around at that angle.

Unless one has a kneebar

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Fuck me I miss The Tor.

 

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