UKBouldering.com

Ansteys situ draws split from NNFN thread (Read 15725 times)

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
Wankers that toss off dogs?

andyd

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1173
  • Karma: +52/-2
    • https://vimeo.com/user14959179
Good. Hope that is it for this one. People do things unintentionally and annoy others. People say horrible things. People say more horrible things on social media and forums than they would say out loud. It's hard to defuse it here. I'd imagine/hope that the accused will modify their behavior. This thread should focus on shared pain and encouragement. :yes:

Wankers that toss off dogs?
And shit like this that nearly made me piss my pants

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
Sometimes I'm ok with perma-draws, sometimes not. In corrosive environments, like most limestone crags the quick link often rust shut in very short time because of galvanic corrosion. (9 times out of 10, the quick link is made of worse steel quality than the hanger). Then it is sometimes impossible to take them down without rebolting the route :(

On highly frequented crags fixed draws are just a mess.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5377
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
I think the age-old adage 'take only photographs, leave only quickdraws' sums it up best.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2016, 11:07:23 am by mrjonathanr »

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre

I think the age-old adage 'take any photographs, leave only quickdraws' sums it up best.

I thought it ran "Film every move (uncut) and driving to/from the crag, leave only Quickdraws/bog roll/turds/wrappers/tick marks/butts/roaches/tinnies/old mattresses"

That may be the Spanish version though...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Maybe I am being dim, but what's the big crime in leaving maillon'ed draws on a sport route?

Safety issues related to damage to the tape and the crab is one thing and the other thing is that those that leave them don't respect that a good proportion of other people find them unsightly or incongruous.

I could put it in stronger terms.

Strange, I am sure you clipped a few happily enough (*) on your visit here ... I don't recall any self-righteous Brit ranting?


When in Canadia do as the Canadians do. At Ansteys I like it being free of situ / perma draws. I am quite aware that aesthetics and ethics are not absolute and vary from country to country. If the national consensus is OK with situ draws, chipping, whatever, then as a visitor you have to respect that. 

« Last Edit: February 07, 2016, 03:13:10 pm by shark »

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
Just seen this.

Its very strange the different reactions my post produced on two different groups on FB and here.

On the Javu group people thought that my point was correct and that my mode of expression was mildly amusing.

Here people seem to think that my point was correct and that i'm a bit of a tit.

On the SW Beta and Conditions group people grudgingly admitted that my point was correct but that i'm subhuman scum, and that my post was far far worse than the offence I was posting a bit.

I didnt think it was that bad, I didn't actually threaten anyone - I said they 'need a kneecapping'. My Father often says I need a good thrashing, but he never actually hits me ffs! I wasn't in an angry rage when I wrote it, its just standard over the top language expressing my irritation at whichever tit was responsible. If i'd left in-situs in Fisherman's for a few months and someone posted on the interweb saying 'take your draws out u lazy cunt or i'll break your legs and cut your teeth out', I wouldn't bat an eyelid.

The chap leaving them in the CS is just being bone idle.

The chap leaving them in the Lynch may not be, but having a health condition of any kind doesn't mean its ok to do things that its not ok for others to do at the crag, or should we have wheelchair access at Gogarth? I'm being OTT again, silly me, im probably offending somebody or other. Any blasted way, you can equip pretty much all of the Lynch with a clip stick.

It has been pointed out that, once upon a time, I wrote on the internet saying I was fine with the draws staying in Mecca. There a few reasons why my view of the draws in CS is different.

1. i'm older and shit, and I changed my mind; its what its there for.

2. i was told how sketch the draws were when they tested them after removing them

3. I have always loved Anstey's, and i dont really give a rats ass about the Tor.

Anyway, the merits of the CS argument stand, irrespective of my u-turns/hypocrisy/lack of credibility etc.

Honestly writing this is so lame. I don't really mind if people don't like me, but I don't actually want to upset people (as in make them sad - I couldn't give a fuck if someone is full of sanctimonious rage at what a cunt I am). I don't feel any malice towards anyone, im just fucked if im going to have to run everything I say or write off the cuff to a panel of censors before I say or write it. 

So peace and love and flowers and all that cant say gay shit, and draws out of 4 bolt routes at the cove please. Ta!

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
I should also probably point out OMM, that there were 35 people on the Javu group who 'liked' a carbon copy of the post on SW Beta. So even tho I might often be the dumb cunt who posts something in that vein on a climbing forum, there's plenty of folk who don't think its some outrageous transgression on a par with me actually hunting down this Jamie chap and kicking him in nuts.

*No that's not a threat, yes i'm sure he's very fearsome and brave and I would never dare kick him in the nuts.*

Mumra

  • Guest
Not sure why you felt like you needed to justify anything. You must be getting old

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
cos im more insecure these days i've just moved to Bristol and nobody talks to me down the wall

 :boohoo:

Mumra

  • Guest
cos im more insecure these days i've just moved to Bristol and nobody talks to me down the wall

 :boohoo:
That probably says more about the Bristolian's than you.
It's admirable to have an opinion, even/especially if you're passionate about it. Otherwise we the world would be a very agreeable dull place

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
cos im more insecure these days i've just moved to Bristol and nobody talks to me down the wall

 :boohoo:

They're probably intimidated by your power.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
I'm confused - where is the video of the in situ draws? Otherwise its just 'he said, that she said, that he said that his friends aunty had heard, that a tall man in a grey coat had been seen talking to the person who saw it in their tea leaves' eh!

cha1n

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1096
  • Karma: +32/-4
I didn't think it was bad enough to worry about justifying yourself to everyone, ultimately the guy was in the wrong which was the underlying message. Just not very polite.

After reading the SW post (sort of scan read it), I thought his excuse was fairly poor. Didn't he say he hurt his ankle but was posting on fb from Font or something like that.

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
You know what, I regret starting this.
Never really meant it to be like this and was mainly mildly saddened by your choice of language 39. I also hadn't connected Neter with you at that point and then got caught up with that whole CAC thread. Which I struggled with for obvious reasons. I took a while to realise that Dense had (once again) a point.
Is that close enough to sorry?

Nah.

Sorry.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2114
  • Karma: +85/-1
Well, you've upset me Matt. You've made me agree with 3-9, I feel dirty.

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
I'm slightly confused now, but i'm sure i deserved it - and i'm glad we're all chums again!

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5778
  • Karma: +622/-36
...
I am aware there are some Brit crags where leaving draws in place overnight upsets locals and is therefore an access issue (and at Horai in Japan you are not supposed to do it because the noise of jangling quick draws disturbs the tree spirits ...), but that's not the case at Ansteys, is it?

No, but it drives the Mermaids apeshit..

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
Maybe I am being dim, but what's the big crime in leaving maillon'ed draws on a sport route?
Safety issues related to damage to the tape and the crab is one thing and the other thing is that those that leave them don't respect that a good proportion of other people find them unsightly or incongruous.
I could put it in stronger terms.

Not to mention that the Ferocity Wall is 50 yards from the sea. It sometimes gets sea spray with a swell and and onshore wind. Hence increased corosion of insitu stuff.

I pretty much totally agree with 3-9 / Mark / Neter on this. I suspect he may have said something pretty similar to this guy's face actually. I find insitu draws convenient, and often use them, but (perhaps hypocritically) wish that in general they weren't there; especially when they are dodgy looking.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
I love insitu draws, but leaving them on a seacliff over the winter is stupid

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
I love insitu draws, but leaving them on a seacliff over the winter is stupid

You love them as long as they're maintained (on your behalf). After a few times of them not opening on an onsight or being really really worn (see RRG popular failure points for a reference here) you become less fond.

Incidentally I advocated using these on some of the Kilnsey roof routes rather than somebody's second set. It was received with some mixed opinions, mainly concern about spreading etc. However, installing one on or two would make accessing these routes a whole lot easier (IMO).

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
I dunno if you've been to Anstey's Bennett, but in Kilnsey terms with Cider Soak we're talking about Nerve Ending, not Mandella!

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9626
  • Karma: +264/-4
I dunno if you've been to Anstey's Bennett, but in Kilnsey terms with Cider Soak we're talking about Nerve Ending, not Mandella!

I have and I am. I found draws left in various Peak routes (Monsterosity for instance) were an absolute PITA.

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5778
  • Karma: +622/-36
Like most things in-situ draws/equipment can be done well or badly. If you're going to do it do it well: stainless steel fixings that won't galvanic corrode within a year, and a steel clipping biner at heavy wear points like cruxes/changes of angle that won't turn into a sharp-edged health hazard within a few years.
 
And what Barrows said - I appreciate a well-thought-out bit of in-stiu gear on steep routes/to aid lowering off etc., but sub-standard in-situ gear on sea cliffs should be called out every time because it represents a short-sighted blinkered attitude on the part of the climber responsible. North Wales lime, another area where sport-climbing takes place in a salt-water environment, was littered with this sort of crap, like a rusty shit-stain left behind by 20 years of short-sighted thinking, that year-on-year eventually turned some routes into unclimbable messes.

TheTwig

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 278
  • Karma: +7/-1

I'll just take a second to let everyone know that this thread has been highly entertaining, bravo UKB. Sidenote: I don't think original post moaning about the mailons was OTT at all. Keep it up   :great:  :popcorn:

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal