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Anatomy survey - are you missing a muscle? (Read 14287 times)

paulwelford

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Anatomy survey - are you missing a muscle?
February 01, 2016, 04:15:35 pm
Hi all

I'm a physio/medic and, just for fun, I am running an online survey about a muscle found in 86% of people.

I'm interested to know whether it is more commonly found in top level climbers as I think it may confer benefit when climbing on slopers. I also wonder if it is linked with a condition called Dupuytren's Disease, which affects the palm of the hand and is around twice as common in climbers.

You don't have to be an elite climber to take part. Just watch this 3 min video, follow the advice and post a comment below. If you prefer to send me a private reply, simply DM me or email paulwelfordmedical@gmail.com:

You can watch the video here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHlm4UI30x4&feature=youtu.be

Feel free to share the video with anyone you think will find it interesting.

Happy Bouldering

webbo

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I've got it in both arms more prominent in my left even though I'm right handed. I don't have Dupuytrens although I've got nodules in both hands and a very slight curving of my left little finger.
Grade wise E5,7c and ft7b also I've climbed on and off for 40 years plus.

cheque

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I have the tendon on both arms. No trace of Dupuytrens.

I've bouldered 7A max. Definitely stronger on slopers than crimps.

SimonB

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No Tendon in either arm, and no sign of Dupuytrens.
8a+ sport, 7C boulder, E6
Stronger on crimps, but primarily climb on limestone so to be expected.

webbo

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I've got it in both arms more prominent in my left even though I'm right handed. I don't have Dupuytrens although I've got nodules in both hands and a very slight curving of my left little finger.
Grade wise E5,7c and ft7b also I've climbed on and off for 40 years plus.
I forgot to put I'm reasonably ok on slopers

andyd

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I've got it on both sides.
Roughly 7b/E5
No dupamejobs
OK on slopers. Better on crimps.

Might be worth finding out the type of rock? Not many slopers on Dartmoor.

moose

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I have the tendon in both arms, pronounced Dupuytrens in the left hand. 

8a/+ sport (best red-points), font7b+ bouldering (on a good day, used to be font7c).  Terrible on slopers but love a mingin' crimp - though I suspect that is more to do with being light and lanky and having no upper body strength than my hand anatomy.

tomtom

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Yes both sides.
F7B or more on a good day!
No Dupuytrens
Not especially good on slopers - not bad either...

Fultonius

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Yes on both sides. No sign of dupuytrens.

Font 7B & Fr 8a. At my peak (not just now  could hang for 25 seconds on the beastmaker 45s) But strangely terrible at font slopers - I can hang them, I just couldn't move off them!

fried

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Both sides. Dupuytrens in both hands (undiagnosed),  no problems straightening fingers just nodules that don't affact me much.

Did a 6B once, much prefer crimpy stuff.

Pricey

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Tendon in R only
8a+ route, 7B+ boulder
No Dupuytrens
Probably better on slopers/more open holds, no discernible difference between sides.

cheque

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My mate without a UKB or YouTube account has the tendon in both arms, has done 6b/ 6B and has bad Depuytrens in both hands.

Murph

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Fascinating. You learn something every day.

Yes both arms.
Font 7B max.
No dupuytrens.
Not sure what I'm better on, maybe slopers, not sure.

Prediction: lots of noise in the date.

a13c

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I have the tendon in both arms, I've projected font 7c+ and have a decent sized dupuytrens lump in my left palm and the tiny beginnings of one in my right. I'm ok on slopers but most of my climbing is on crimps. I've been climbing for around 20 years.

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paulwelford

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Thanks for all the comments everyone. Please do keep them coming  :yes:

rich d

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have it in both arms, no dups in either, once climbed a couple of font 7a's slightly less shit on slopers compared to crimps but mainly climbed on grit, been climbing 29 years.

haydn jones

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Tendon in both. climb 8c . Have dupuytrens in left hand. Terrible at sloppers

HaeMeS

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Tendon in both arms.
8a route, 7B boulder.
No Dupuytrens.
Better on crimps, cause I know how to use skin, tendon and bone, not muscle. Weak as shit, cant hold pinches, but OK on Font-style slopers. Suck at open holds.

Teaboy

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I have the tendon in both arms/hands.
I have Duyupetron's in both hands but only one is turning into trigger finger so far.
I Boulder around Fb7A and am awful on slopers although I am ok open handing stuff (I can hook my top joint over edges and hang quite merrily, I guess I struggle to apply pressure though which is what's required for slopers

ferret

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I have it in both arms
No Duyupetron's that I can see
Prior to injury (occasionally) bouldered 8a+, most of my harder stuff was slopey compression style but also managed some fingery stuff around the 8a-8a+ grade, there was always a heel hook involved so maybe that doesn't count ;)

Duncan campbell

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Think I have it in both arms though more prominent on my right (The tendon isnt as central as yours in the video - both are more towards the thumb side of the hand). Also have a small lump in my right hand. Climb E5 o/s, 7c RP and 7A+ boulder. definitely better on crimps than slopers.

rodma

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I have it in both arms
Bouldered 8a+
Better on crimps than slopers
No dumpytrumps
Have been training intensively for about 20 years.

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duncan

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I see what you're getting at but I think it's unlikely there is any link. Given almost no-one will have trained their other forearm muscles to capacity I doubt if Palmaris Longus has anything to do with sloper strength for most people. It's likely to be far more influenced by technique and practice surely? The Dupuytrens link is an intriguing idea.

Bilateral PLs
Boulders 6C on a good day with a following wind.
Weak on slopers
Climbed for approaching 40 years.
No sign of Dupuytrens.

Duma

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Well just to be awkward (or idiotic) I'm not sure if I have it or not. There's a raised tendon when I do the test, but it's distinctly to the thumb side of central, and seems to connect to the base of the thumb. Any thoughts?

highrepute

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Same as Duma for me.

So I'm saying I don't have it.
Boulder 7C+
No Dappertrons
Too large an ego to admit I'm weak on slopers.


 

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