[TobyD]

Any recommendations for the above? Non - beefy type moves preferred (ie more often succeeded on). But anything of quality would be great, whatever its like, but if bouldery, it would need to be towards the easier end. Cheers Toby

[Kingy]

Don't leave without doing Magic Festival and La Corva de Felicitat, both 7c at Raco de Tenebres, which are long, steepy pumpy numbers with no real hard moves. Also Festa Fotre and Anatologica at the neighbouring Raco de la Finestra and both great, more british (i.e less steep) 7c's, good for onsights. There is a good looking, steep 8a here called Sativa Patatica but its like a gym climb, v steep.

Both of these crags are shady so if it is cold, head up the hill to Balcon de Ermita where some awesome, longer 7c's may be found, pick any, there's all good - great view and nice sunny crag.

At Espadelles, I did Malosombra 7c+ which was a tough, harder line but memorable. Transilvania 8a looks good, quite thuggy looking though. Don't bother with Su Doku, a really polished 7c.

If you're after a really bouldery 7c, try Tsunami at Laboratory sector, if not avoid like the plague! Have a great trip

[TobyD]

Don't leave without doing ... Have a great trip

Cheers Ted! I've had 1 short day at Margalef before and did Festra Fotre - I lilked that one and a couple of the other routes at that sector. Only there for a week, but your list sounds like a good one. Looking forward to escaping the British (mostly) murky weather.

[T_B]

At Espadelles, I did Malosombra 7c+ which was a tough, harder line but memorable.

I did that one and thought it was powerful and bouldery!

As I mentioned to you Toby, at Espadelles El Sistema 7c+ is absolutely superb. A bit bouldery off the deck to a big pocket and shake, then cruxy but not too desperate, then resistance to the top. It follows a line and would be 3-stars on any crag in the world IMO.

[Ally Smith]

What Kingy said, and...

- Stay away from El Laboratori - too bouldery
- Dr. Feelgood on the opposite side of the valley to laboratori is great soft 8a (Not in the Pod select guide though)

[TobyD]

- Dr. Feelgood on the opposite side of the valley to laboratori is great soft 8a (Not in the Pod select guide though)

Good knowledge Ally & Tom too - cheers.
Perhaps I should have titled the topic (and all of these recommendation threads!): "I'd like some buttery-soft, ego-stroking holiday ticks with massive grades, massive, comfortable holds, decent rests on which an attractive scantily clad member of my preferred gender will offer to belay me out of the blue"?

Are there any routes in Margalef called 'Moon on a stick (with sunshine)'?

[RichK]

Follame (7c)at espadalles extension is amazing & pretty long. Lots of good o/sighting in the same area.

[jwi]

My better half have indicated that she might want to go to Margalef a day our two during our brief stay in Cornudella in December. As I need to train pockets (1 and 2 finger, + three fingers stacking) going to Margalef might not be a total waste, despite the proximity to Siurana. I'm looking for sustained routes 7b+ to 7c+, might be tempted with 7b or 8a if they are truly exceptional.

From the above:

7b+
??

 7c
Magic Festival, Raco de Tenebres
La Corva de Felicitat, Raco de Tenebres
Follame, Espadalles Extension
All(?) 7cs at Balcon de Ermita

7c+
Malosombra, Espadelles
El Sistema, Espadelles

8a
Dr. Feelgood, on the opposite side of the valley to Laboratori

Other recommendations?