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Recent drop in performance - help needed (Read 17337 times)

Johnny Brown

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Or how deep beastmaker pockets are.

shark

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Going forward Im going to try and make my evenings more efficient/effective/structured and probably have more weeks where I only climb tues/thurs. I reckon Ive sort of hit a peak from just climbing tons - E5 and 7c seem reasonable for this so maybe now I do actually have to at least be a little more structured...

25 was about the age I plateaued out climbing at the E5 and 7b level. It was a painful experience at the time and I thought that was it in terms of grade improvement. The incremental gains from here on in are nothing like as exciting as jumping from one grade to the next and can feel like a grind at times until you re-calibrate our expectations.  Nowadays an improvement of 2 extra seconds on a deadhang is exciting. I used to hate structured training. Its why I started Fit Club on UKC to force myself into better training habits. Find out what works for you.     

Luke Owens

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You're only at the stage of dipping your toe in the waters of climbing angst. Wait until you start seriously projecting 8s and training for trips. You'll know you're fucked when you start seeking clarification on ukb about rest times for Ancap.

I've seeked out clarification of this on here before and I don't even climb in the 8's... there's no hope for me!

T_B

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Going forward Im going to try and make my evenings more efficient/effective/structured and probably have more weeks where I only climb tues/thurs. I reckon Ive sort of hit a peak from just climbing tons - E5 and 7c seem reasonable for this so maybe now I do actually have to at least be a little more structured...

25 was about the age I plateaued out climbing at the E5 and 7b level. It was a painful experience at the time and I thought that was it in terms of grade improvement. The incremental gains from here on in are nothing like as exciting as jumping from one grade to the next and can feel like a grind at times until you re-calibrate our expectations.  Nowadays an improvement of 2 extra seconds on a deadhang is exciting. I used to hate structured training. Its why I started Fit Club on UKC to force myself into better training habits. Find out what works for you.   

Yeah but that was 40 years ago and what with advances in training knowledge, a 25-year old nowadays is just getting started.

shark

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Yeah but that was 40 years ago and what with advances in training knowledge, a 25-year old nowadays is just getting started.

40 !


tomtom

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35?

Schnell

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Or how deep beastmaker pockets are.

Not even close, that wasn't angst. That was light diversion from thinking about how injured I am. I can't wait for days when I'll be able to worry about  having to accurate assess my fingerboard performance!

Nibile

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rodma

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Bump!
https://www.t-nation.com/training/what-overtraining-is-and-isnt

at the wall i certainly see several individual's who are never recovering between sessions and are constantly trying to have a hard session, but instead just maintain a level of both ability and fatigue. whilst this goes against the definition of overtraining (in that link) in the purely sports science sense of the word, it still makes sense in that the individual is training too much/inefficintly and i can't think of any other concise description for that other than "over training"

jwi

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Under-resting? Badly planned training? Lack of variation? Stupidity?

Muenchener

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Bump!
https://www.t-nation.com/training/what-overtraining-is-and-isnt

Been there done that, I think, in my grad student days when I was trying to pursue both climbing and martial arts. (Later I got a job and released it had to be one or the other, as recently discussed on another thread). I was going to karate training most evenings, going to the wall on evenings when I wasn’t doing karate, and doing circuit training or weights most lunchtimes. I wasn’t great at either climbing or karate, but I was gratifyingly lean and muscly.  :lol:

… and, after a few months, had no appetite, wasn't sleeping well and generally felt washed out and listless. It took several weeks of resting / severely dialed back training to recover.

Interesting experience. You don’t have to be a super advanced elite athlete for it to happe to you. I wasn’t. In fact, if you persist in that state it probably guarantees that you won’t be. I was a penniless student and iirc vegetarian at the time too, so I wouldn’t entirely rule out protein / amino acid deficiencies having played a supporting role, but the main factor was just pushing it much too hard for a sustained period of time.

rodma

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Under-resting? Badly planned training? Lack of variation? Stupidity?
Pulling too hard too frequently :)

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