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Periodise me (Read 3244 times)

Muenchener

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Periodise me
January 14, 2016, 04:47:22 pm
My planned highlights for the climbing year are looking as follows:

(1) May: Frankenjura
(2) July: alpine multipitch
(3) Autumn: Mediterranean sport expedition. Favourite is Margalef as i can train specifically for it in the 'jura, but depends on ability to persuade partners.

Specifically with regard to (1), what do I do for the next four months? I'm thinking focus first on bouldering & beastmaking until about February, then shift emphasis to short endurance, but when? All of March & April?

I think I'm ok with regard to approach march fitness for (2), and all day suffering, ropework non-faffing etc are best trained by doing them. (1) and (3) are more important.

TheTwig

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#1 Re: Periodise me
January 14, 2016, 09:37:34 pm
Maybe leave it a little later to start the PE? If that was me I would start the PE in march rather than feb, though my endurance responds quite quickly to training when I actually do it.

I think as soon as you get back from your alpine stuff you would have to crack back onto the endurance stuff really quickly, I imagine you would lose your PE quite quickly doing alpine multipitch climbing?


Muenchener

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#2 Re: Periodise me
January 14, 2016, 09:56:28 pm
Maybe leave it a little later to start the PE? If that was me I would start the PE in march rather than feb,

Yep, I meant

I'm thinking focus first on bouldering & beastmaking until about end of February, then shift emphasis to short endurance, but when?

... should have been clearer

ghisino

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#3 Re: Periodise me
January 16, 2016, 10:47:45 am
Specifically with regard to (1), what do I do for the next four months? I'm thinking focus first on bouldering & beastmaking until about February, then shift emphasis to short endurance, but when? All of March & April?

if it was me, i'd shift my focus for about 6 weeks prior to your fj trip, of which:

-4 weeks of hard work
-2 weeks of gradual tapering (lowering the overall volume of your sessions while keeping the intensity of the hardest routes/circuits you climb, and the number of sessions per week).

also:

-i'd keep at least one short and sharp bouldering/fingerboarding session/week
-before the phase change, i'd try to have one session/week focused on a relatively big volume of easy climbing, without much rest - this can be 40 mins of non-stop autobelay machine at the gym, or two "15 minutes of continuous climbing on a circuit wall" shots.
-personally speaking i don't like sharp transitions, i'd rather "fade" from one phase to the over one or two weeks.

krymson

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#4 Re: Periodise me
January 16, 2016, 01:45:34 pm
i think 4 months is almost perfect for a full RCTM periodized cycle. Why not give that a shot?

Muenchener

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#5 Re: Periodise me
January 16, 2016, 04:54:16 pm
Good point. Will have another look through the book this evening.

jwi

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#6 Re: Periodise me
January 16, 2016, 07:52:34 pm
I've climbed very little in Frankenjura, but the little I did was on short routes with absolutely desperate moves... Is that the kind of routes your aiming for?

If I had a good base I would do a lot of strength for the first 10 weeks (bouldering and lots of 1 & 2 finger work on the fingerboard, and some general conditioning), with some conti/ long resistance thrown in every 7-10 day. Then lots of short resistance for 3-4 weeks, then tapering the last 2 weeks with simulator projects and a few days of pure power training thrown in.

If I didn't have a good base I would do a high volume of easy bouldering the first 2-3 weeks. Going from maybe 800 moves on the first sessions to around 1500 moves on the last sessions.

YMMV. (^all this is quite useless info as it only applies to me... but what do you expect...?)

 

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