[mrjonathanr]

That's an interesting question, how best to train recovery ....without massively increasing susceptibility to injury.

[submaximal gains]

I didn't understand some of the terms used in the sample assessment posted on the trainingbeta podcast, if you could expand on them that would be excellent, as it's worrying me that I've just fundamentally misunderstood the whole energy systems model.

What is anaerobic contribution?

What is aerobic efficiency?

What is aerobic power?
 - David Binney's pdf calls it the percentage of aerobic capacity you can sustain or your climb, but is it just a kind of tapering protocol for aerobic capacity or something like your ability to continue using the aerobic system throughout the changing demands of a  route; e.g. going thorugh bouldery sections or whilst becoming pumped.

What's up with training aerobic capacity at 2 different intensities - do you think it is significantly better?

Am I right in thinking training aerobic and anerobic capacity is just about putting the time climbing at the right intensity, or is it more than that?

Thank you in advance for any answer you may give :-)

[lagerstarfish]

I don't even understand the questions

I'm folding

(I have done The Sheep properly)

[ferret]

Tom, you seem to really like tape,  have you ever gone to bed taped up (accidentally or on purpose) if so what did the Missus think?

What do you think about a sponsored full body taping to help fund the next WideBoyz road trip?

[siderunner]

I have a question:: As I understand it, all the energy systems stuff is kind of relative to my single move strength; so if I'm pretty weak (v5 boulderer) and wanted to climb 8a in 3 years, would just working on strength (weights/FB/campus) be the logical way to go?

Put more simply: how to prioritise (combine?) strength training with energy systems training?

[tomtom]

(I have done The Sheep properly)

Yeah yeah yeah.. You have all the beta but I've never seen the goods...

[cjsheps]

Most importantly,

Are you regretting agreeing to this yet Tom?

[Paul B]

Just as a small request - if people want me to get through more than 3 replies you'll have to keep them fairly directed...
Paul B

First one then. Hopefully someone else will ask the second.

[andyh]

Question for Tommy:

Do you create personalised training plans, and if not can you recommend someone who does?

Background: After years of mainly trad (up to E6) and bouldering (up to 7b+) I tore my labrum last year and had an op in April.

I have goals to climb sport 7a this year and 8a two years after that.

I've never trained for climbing other than climbing, and know nothing about the science of it. And by accident I now live near Reading.

[Wood FT]

Question for Tommy:

Do you create personalised training plans, and if not can you recommend someone who does?

He just just started a coaching company for this very purpose*

www.latticetraining.co.uk

*that'll be £7.30 commission please Tom

[Oldmanmatt]

Tom, you seem to really like tape,  have you ever gone to bed taped up (accidentally or on purpose) if so what did the Missus think?

What do you think about a sponsored full body taping to help fund the next WideBoyz road trip?

For god's sake, shave first...


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[Tommy]

Most importantly,

Are you regretting agreeing to this yet Tom?

Ha ha! Errrr..... 

Holy shit, this is going to be an interesting Friday evening for me.

[T_B]

Q. What’s the maximum that you can train your anaerobic capacity in terms of climbing time or number of moves? In other words, how far can you get on strength + power + anaerobic endurance alone, without having to tap into the aerobic energy system, assuming the intensity of the climbing is significantly below your maximum strength? Or, to put it another way, do boulderers and short route (sub 30 moves) climbers really have to spend much of their time training AeroCap? Or can they just focus on getting stronger on the moves instead?

[Oldmanmatt]

[emoji6]


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[SA Chris]

Dear Tom,

Would my Friday evening be better spent down the wall than sitting at my PC trying to understand all this training cycle stuff.

Thanks

[User deactivated]

Question for Tom,

Are the results of your testing confidential or can we find out who the biggest over achiever is etc? So weakest with highest grades (probably the best climber) or strongest with a relatively low grade? Route climbers who are overly strong or boulderers that would be better served on a rope!


I know this isn't really training related but it's pretty interesting amongst all the energy system chat!

[dave]

Question for Tom

When designing your new Sublime brush, what was the thinking behind making the handle way too thick to fit into the brush holder on virtually every chalkbag on the market?

Thanks

[slackline]

Question for Tom

When designing your new Sublime brush, what was the thinking behind making the handle way too thick to fit into the brush holder on virtually every chalkbag on the market?

Thanks

New product announcement : Sublime chalkbags, the perfect chalkbag to accommodate your Sublime brush


The brush handles are large enough to be hollow and stash some dope in though.

[dave]

Question for Tom

How do you feel about your Sublime brush being already synonymous with illegal/banned substances?

Thanks

[Jerry Morefat]

Question for Tom

How do you feel about your Sublime brush being already synonymous with illegal/banned substances?

Thanks

Another question for Tom, somewhat related to Dave's.

How can you justify the use of unicorn bristle in your sublime brushes? Is it true you have a ranch in Equatorial Kundu where you breed the animals?

[cheque]

Question for Tom

Can you talk us through the process of the packaging scent selection for your Sublime brushes?

Thanks

[cofe]

Question for Tom:

Now you've done a toothbrush/hand sanitiser combo, any plans to do a Drillfork?

[Doylo]

What's the best way to woo a Man (Dense)?

[JohnM]

February - Finger boarding (probably CWB/Max Hangs)
March - Climbing lots, aiming to stay uninjured

You already got injured in February 

[tomtom]

Question for Tom

Can you talk us through the process of the packaging scent selection for your Sublime brushes?

Thanks

further to this - is the brand name any reference to your preference (or not) for different rock types?