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Ask Tom Randall Q&A session Friday evening (not lunchtime) (Read 45562 times)

36chambers

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btw, do we have proof that Tommy is the guy he says he is? This is the internet, this Tommy chap could be anyone. ;)

lagerstarfish

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Climb 4 times on plastic lagers, there that's saved Tommy a bit of bother

I've climbed at The Works four times in the last nine days. Five days off due to flu.

I'm still shit, despite being 6lb lighter than I was nine days ago.


* I should work abroad, right?
« Last Edit: January 12, 2016, 11:26:35 pm by lagerstarfish »

Mumra

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How are you that much lighter? Did you chop off a foot or put down that kebab?

a dense loner

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Work abroad no, you should climb abroad lagers :icon_beerchug:

fatneck

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Assuming I can ask a question now and it will be answered on Friday...

I have a Euro trip coming up in three months. My loose plan is;

January - Weight loss and general conditioning (Pilates, weights, diet)
February - Finger boarding (probably CWB/Max Hangs)
March - Climbing lots, aiming to stay uninjured
Throughout - Try and fish a bit less and climb more...

Does this sound like a reasonable plan (bearing in mind I have a very busy job/lifestyle and the weather is shit)?
I appreciate the limitations of the question and the format of this Q&A session therefore, just some general advice about arriving in France in April in decent condition would be appreciated! Thanks  :popcorn:

shark

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just some general advice about arriving in France in April in decent condition would be appreciated! Thanks  :popcorn:

Are you climbing in Font or Sport Climbing?

fatneck

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Sport climbing!!!????! WTF!!??!?

A few various spots are being considered including Font, Strasburg and Swizzy...

shark

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Sport climbing!!!????! WTF!!??!?

A few various spots are being considered including Font, Strasburg and Swizzy...

In that case I have nothing of value to suggest. Tom's expertise is also more biased towards Sport / route climbing

Lund

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1. Is this ukbouldering or uksport?  uksport.co.uk is available.

2. I should think specific questions about "should I do X" are a bit hard for anyone to answer, even Tommy.  For example, how much do you weigh, and how tall are you?  That effects whether you should bother dieting.  What grade do you climb?  What do you find holds you back?  Do you get injured a lot?  Obvs. if you climb 4+ then your program is wank (just go climbing TM), if you climb 7c, then it's wank for a different reason.

If it's things like "I've climbed loads of 8a before, and I want to do this specific 8a+ [22 moves, hard 7a boulder crux after 8 moves] and I find that I fall off on the easy ground after the crux because the crux pumps me out" then I think that's gonna work?

The physio Q&A worked because people gave enough of this detail when talking about what they broke and what hurt.


abarro81

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January - Weight loss and general conditioning (Pilates, weights, diet)


Diet to be light for your trip, not to be light for your training; dieting at the start of a training cycle seems pointless unless you're genuinely fat.

36chambers

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I've got two, possibly silly, questions with regards to bouldering. 

1) Is periodisation (as addressed in RCTM and Barrow's Training for sport climbing) the best way to improve in the long run for someone who doesn't necessarily care about training for an upcoming trip/peaking?

(I'm aware both documents are primarily aimed at sport climbing.)

Furthermore,

2) Is it still worthwhile trying to follow (or design) a periodisation training plan, if I still plan on climbing outside (and performing to some degree) every weekend?


[If it makes any difference I'm currently trying to establish myself in the high 7's/low 8's.]

 

Ally Smith

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Q1)Am I strong enough to do Fisheye? ;-)

Q2)In your training beta podcast/interview you discuss relative peak forces the human forearm can create. What do you consider to be a maximum for the human forearm? 80kg? More?

shark

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Q. Can you explain the difference between "pull/hang force" and "% bodyweight force", how you measure it and what implications it has on climbing performance

SA Chris

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So is this now tomorrow lunchtime then?

a dense loner

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Abarro he's called fatneck not normal sized neck

Paul B

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I've got a few, mainly on behalf of my better-half (N.B. - at her behest):

  • So, last year wasn't a bad one for her given she did her first F7b (Sticky Wicket), quickly followed by her second (Ground Effect) and she then nipped in on the eleventh hour to rumble up Slab Culture (first 7b+). Definitely struggles with the bouldery-side of things at Kilnsey (i.e. usually the starts, and more generally) but when redpointing it'll take a reasonably long time (these were ~10 sessions I think) with her getting up to the 'red-point crux' and falling off before one time everything just works (this is usually followed by falling off the finishing jug for good measure before an actual ascent). In my mind there's three things going wrong there (if we ignore the punting the top part) - general strength, aerobic capacity (arriving more pumped than necessary due to working anaerobically) and/or anaerobic capacity (linking continuously difficult moves together), am I even vaguely correct?
  • Secondly, given the above, and general weaknesses surrounding bouldering do you feel energy systems type training is the most beneficial for her (routes focus only)? (or to re-phrase, in general when do you think people should move on to this kind of training?).
  • Lastly, WTF is 'Split Continuity' and where on earth does it fit in? What does it look like?

I get the answers Fri lunchtime, right?

Ta, Tommy/Shark...

Tommy

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Just as a small request - if people want me to get through more than 3 replies you'll have to keep them fairly directed and with adequate background info. Stuff that Shark, Ally and 36Chambers posted is perfect.

I can type reasonably fast but not that fast!  ;D

Paul B - your questions are really interesting (and stuff I absolutely love discussing) but I would almost spend an hour just with you going through all that stuff and really nailing down what's going on. Choosing 1 or 2 things from that I can kinda get to...

But... of course, if the UKB crowd don't mind me spending most of the time on one person's answers (as they deem it really important) then that's cool with me too.


PipeSmoke

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Q: Is there a way to easily identify your weaknesses without paying someone else to do it?

a dense loner

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Yes, ask someone. I know the basic strengths and weaknesses of everyone I've ever seen climb. I'm quite sure I'm not special

petejh

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Can I pay you anyway?

petejh

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Q for Tom:
'Energy systems' -An/aero cap/pow. Why? Is it 'scene' led (UK training/comp scene personalities) or is it deemed (if so by who?) to be the best available model for understanding energy systems as they relate to climbing? What's the benefit - assuming one - of using this model versus others? And if models are partly a fad/fashion specific to nationalities (not saying they are, just wondering), then what different models for understanding energy systems are popular among top climbers & trainers in other countries or do they mostly all also use the aero/an cap/pow model?
(long Q sorry!)

a dense loner

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No, I've not seen you climb. I've got morals about taking money off people.

You know what I mean though, you'll watch someone climb and you'll know whether they can crimp like a man possessed or can't hold a sloper to save their life. Whether they've got stamina or they're just a powerhouse. If they want to do Boulder X you'll know whether they're gonna do it quickly, whether it'll take them a while or if they'll never do it at all. Or you'll have a good idea what they'll need to train/do to get them to do Boulder X

mrjonathanr

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Q for Tom:
'Energy systems' -An/aero cap/pow. Why? Is it 'scene' led (UK training/comp scene personalities) or is it deemed (if so by who?) to be the best available model for understanding energy systems as they relate to climbing? What's the benefit - assuming one - of using this model versus others? And if models are partly a fad/fashion specific to nationalities (not saying they are, just wondering), then what different models for understanding energy systems are popular among top climbers & trainers in other countries or do they mostly all also use the aero/an cap/pow model?
(long Q sorry!)

Wot he said, more or less, without the national comparative bits.


Just a summary of energy systems to train, how best to train them, whether to do so sequentially over a training plan or simultaneously in a periodised stylee.


For someone who is interested in boulders, short, long, trad and sport routes. And what will the lottery numbers on Saturday be for someone who mostly boulders over 't winter?

Thanks!

Luke Owens

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Cheers for offering to do this! Not sure if you read through my thread you originally posted on Tommy but I'll ask on here anyway.

I'm currently into the 2nd week of a 11 week training plan geared towards 2 short 7c routes which are basicly bouldery and involve ~15 move sequences. The moves are fine in isolation but when linking I power out. This is what also happens to me on every route I redpoint, I rarely get pumped or find moves hard in isolation I just power out quickly when linking sections of hard moves. I've bouldered 7A/+ and redpointed 7b+ but still power out on ~7a routes at the best of times. Never figured out what the missing link is but just climbing alone never seemed to improve this.

There was mixed opinions on the other thread as to how much importance I should pay to each energy system during this plan given the short time frame; some saying not to do any AeroCap/Pow at all and concentrate on strength and AnCap/Pow. What would you recommend (Don't worry about to much detail) and what is the importance (if any) of AeroCap/Pow when it comes to short routes?

Sorry for the long question, cheers!

ghisino

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Q. Let's say i'm training for a trip where i want to climb as many hard-ish pitches as possible each day, with as few rest days as possible. Onsighting not too far from my limit and climbing things second go when i fail, dawn till dusk, and feeling ok the next morning.
What do i need the most, training-wise?

 

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