[shark]

This table from Dave Binney which I've just rediscovered might help:



(Perceived difficulty scale L1 = Level 1 intensity ie Do it all day. L5 = Level 5 which is moves that are brick hard and make you extremely pumped)

[Muenchener]

Are "M" metres or moves?

[shark]

Moves

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Since when do "moves" make you pumped?

If you can do enough of them to get pumped, they can't be "brick hard" can they. Not in my world, where brick hard means something like a hard link of 3 moves, with maybe 60% chance of success, or less.

 

[TheTwig]

Must say that I don't really understand this.. for AnPow how can you train at your limit doing sets of 5 moves with only 10-20 seconds rest between sets?

[bendavison]

I think Shark has confused things by writing L5 = brick hard moves... etc

To me it reads like this: the sets are at L5 i.e. you should be fighting like buggery on the 4th and 5th interval, within each block of 5, in session (a). The difficulty of the moves will reflect this.

Also, those are just 2 of a number of ways of training AeroPow. 

[thekettle]

the L1-5 (Binney's perceived pump scale) indicates how you should feel on completion of a set, (not at the start or midway through the intervals). HTH

[shark]

the L1-5 (Binney's perceived pump scale) indicates how you should feel on completion of a set, (not at the start or midway through the intervals). HTH

Yes, yes, I'm sorry - I was in a hurry when I posted it up.

His specific description for L5 was "Extremely pumped. Fully boxed and close to coming off"

[cha1n]

Just to clarify, are we in agreement that if training AnCap that you should feel hideously powered out on the last rep of the set (if intensity is perfect) and not at the end of each rep? I attempted to do some AnCap yesterday and thought that I was meant to get really powered out by the end of every rep and therefore was barely able to complete more than a few reps at the intensity I was using! Cheers

[Luke Owens]

I'm pretty sure the aim is to power out on roughly the last 20% of the reps, I usually do 8 reps and aim to power out on reps 6 and 7.

I find it pretty difficult to get the intensity right and some times end up dropping the rest time in the last 2 sets to make myself power out if I feel like I'm going to be able to complete all 8, not sure if this is the right thing to do though...?

[highrepute]

be better upping the difficulty and keeping rest time the same

[Three Nine]

be better upping the difficulty and keeping rest time the same

This is a lot harder to do 'on the hop'. However one option is to keep the rest time the same and mime a clip or two as part of a rep to increase difficulty.

If you don't get it quite right one session, dont stress, just make the circuit harder and then try it again next session.

[Tommy]

Main thing is to think about the adaptation that you want - i.e. you want your lactate production rate to go up. Therefore stress the muscle enough push the muscle to limit of it's lactate production rate. You're looking at the 45-60 sec window and for the very highest intensity to allow this.

If you rest too little - you'll not recover and subsequent sets will be lower intensity and stress the Anaerobic system less.
If you climb too easy - you'll stress the anaerobic system less.
If you climb too hard - you'll stress the anaerobic (lactic)system less and you'll be more reliant on localised muscle ATP and the P-Cr system.

In the end though, most people don't even attempt this type of work and continue with it without getting distracted, defocused, bored, whatever, so I wouldn't worry too much about the very fine details if you're trying to make general improvement in your AnCap.

[Rocksteady]

Main thing is to think about the adaptation that you want - i.e. you want your lactate production rate to go up. Therefore stress the muscle enough push the muscle to limit of it's lactate production rate. You're looking at the 45-60 sec window and for the very highest intensity to allow this.

If you rest too little - you'll not recover and subsequent sets will be lower intensity and stress the Anaerobic system less.
If you climb too easy - you'll stress the anaerobic system less.
If you climb too hard - you'll stress the anaerobic (lactic)system less and you'll be more reliant on localised muscle ATP and the P-Cr system.

Sorry Tommy, for clarification are you saying that an AnCap 'rep' should be 45-60 seconds? Do you take a different view on it to Binney as above if I read his table right it's saying 10-15 moves per 'rep', which I think for me is more like 30-45 seconds?

[36chambers]

Main thing is to think about the adaptation that you want - i.e. you want your lactate production rate to go up. Therefore stress the muscle enough push the muscle to limit of it's lactate production rate. You're looking at the 45-60 sec window and for the very highest intensity to allow this.

If you rest too little - you'll not recover and subsequent sets will be lower intensity and stress the Anaerobic system less.
If you climb too easy - you'll stress the anaerobic system less.
If you climb too hard - you'll stress the anaerobic (lactic)system less and you'll be more reliant on localised muscle ATP and the P-Cr system.

Sorry Tommy, for clarification are you saying that an AnCap 'rep' should be 45-60 seconds? Do you take a different view on it to Binney as above if I read his table right it's saying 10-15 moves per 'rep', which I think for me is more like 30-45 seconds?

It may be that Binney was originally thinking 45-60 seconds when he said 10-15 moves. It would be less ambiguous if authors quoted number of moves and time climbing simultaneously. I would have hoped that as long as the end goal is achieved, being royally powered out etc., then slight discrepancies in the no. moves/seconds aren't too paramount.

  It's amazing that our bodies respond best to training regimes described in multiples of 5.

[cha1n]

Yeh, moves isn't too helpful if you climb quite fast like I generally do on circuits! I suppose climbing time to rest time is most important?

[Tommy]

Sorry Tommy, for clarification are you saying that an AnCap 'rep' should be 45-60 seconds? Do you take a different view on it to Binney as above if I read his table right it's saying 10-15 moves per 'rep', which I think for me is more like 30-45 seconds?

No, me and Dave think very similarly on this (I've spoken to him quite a lot about it as we jointly deliver training theory courses!) - it's just a matter of how fast you climb. 10-15 moves should take you 45-60 secs unless you know something really well, or there's no complexity to it, or lack of foot moves. Chain's point is also a good one - think about that rest:work ratio.

[Muenchener]

It's amazing that our bodies respond best to training regimes described in multiples of 5.

Look at your hand. How many sticky-out bits do you see? (If you are not Tommy Caldwell)

Stands to reason innit

[TheTwig]

Unless I'm being thick as a plank (likely), there's nowhere for rests between sets?

Take option a) for AnCap

5 moves at lvl 5 intensity, rest 10-20 seconds, repeat 4 more times for 5 total reps. Then how much rest before the next set? (for a total of 3 sets)

[Rocksteady]

Sorry Tommy, for clarification are you saying that an AnCap 'rep' should be 45-60 seconds? Do you take a different view on it to Binney as above if I read his table right it's saying 10-15 moves per 'rep', which I think for me is more like 30-45 seconds?

No, me and Dave think very similarly on this (I've spoken to him quite a lot about it as we jointly deliver training theory courses!) - it's just a matter of how fast you climb. 10-15 moves should take you 45-60 secs unless you know something really well, or there's no complexity to it, or lack of foot moves. Chain's point is also a good one - think about that rest:work ratio.

OK great, thanks for the clarification - think I've been constructing my circuits with too few foot moves/too little complexity.

[shark]

Sorry Tommy, for clarification are you saying that an AnCap 'rep' should be 45-60 seconds? Do you take a different view on it to Binney as above if I read his table right it's saying 10-15 moves per 'rep', which I think for me is more like 30-45 seconds?

No, me and Dave think very similarly on this (I've spoken to him quite a lot about it as we jointly deliver training theory courses!) - it's just a matter of how fast you climb. 10-15 moves should take you 45-60 secs unless you know something really well, or there's no complexity to it, or lack of foot moves. Chain's point is also a good one - think about that rest:work ratio.

OK great, thanks for the clarification - think I've been constructing my circuits with too few foot moves/too little complexity.

Or you could just count to two before making the next move