[fried]

STG - Make it to the end of the year without getting injured.

M/T - Shoulder still sore, had a couple of days off.

W - Indoors at Arkose, got to watch some of the French team. Had a nice session doing whatever I fancied.
Th - Nothing
Fr - Indoors, I was first there. Everything is greasy. Less good session, short too. Shoulder grumbling a bit.
Sa - Should be outside, but I'm not I'm at Lidl buying wine. Pfff.
Su - COP21 lockdown. Watched Sportiva legends while doing a set of BM. Not great, shoulders tired.

Didn't do too much, hopefully I'll be good for 2 sessions in the forest next week.

I'll be in Thailand for all of January, probably 3 weeksish in Railay. Don't want to piss off the missus by snapping my ankle.

[lagerstarfish]

climbing at Railay?

[fried]

No, drinking sangsom in a hammock....i might take my shoes in case I fancy a bimble....Just need to get the missus settled....haven't mentioned there being any rock yet.

[lagerstarfish]

take a harness as well, if you have room

good time of year for climbing there

[fried]

 

[Will Hunt]

Another shit climbing week. Family related drama going on all week.

M-S: nada

[webbo]

Another shit climbing week. Family related drama going on all week.

M-S: nada

Are you not going to tell us more. I have access to a whole systemic family therapy team at work if you need advice.

[shark]

11.1-2

M. Eve. Weighted deadhangs session. Would normally have done more stuff today but got a cold
T.
W. Eve Headed out with lamps despite having a filthy cold as Tom was keen. Went to Plantation so he cold have a go at the Green Traverse. Pretty good conditions but not in the zone unsurprisingly
T.
F.  Eve. Still had a cold. Fingerboard. Same results as Monday for full crimps but all time PB for drags. No idea why.
S.
S.  At last got over cold. Grim rainy weather 10degrees. Crag X. Not the only nutter - Chris205 was there. JR wet along with most of the crag but Chris showed me Sean's which though not exactly dry was do-able. I tried it with the heel/toe and made OK progress getting established on the crimps a couple of times whilst Chris did laps. Tips and knee got sore. Went to Tor which was in surprisingly good nick. Tried end of Perverse to see if I could do it without stressing my knee but no go. Had a few goes on start of Bens then went home.

Laid off the systems board endurance work this week due to cold.

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Boardroom routes - Feeling run down/tired and had to fully tape my index finger tip due to huge flapper from Sunday so did ~10 routes nothing harder than 6a.

T: Core - 50 crunches
15 side crunches both sides
5 x 5 sec hold L-Raises
10 hanging knee raises
5 x 10 sec Spiderman
5 x 5 sec hold L-Raises
10 hanging knee raises
50 crunches
15 side crunches both sides

F: Rest - Abs destroyed...

S: Rest - Abs destroyed...

S: Local Wall - 20 min Aerocap traversing warm-up

2 hours on the 20' board, set a new problem ~6B+ and did other stuff up to 6B+ one of which I found nails on sloping flat crimps

30 mins on the 45' board, tried blue project and managed the move I couldn't do previously and did some easy juggy stuff.

4x4 on ~V2 3mins rest between sets - powered out big time towards the end

20 min Aerocap traversing warm-down

Good session considering my abs were still destroyed and I climbed with a taped up tip.

[Muenchener]

STG (2015): 6C on plastic, onsight 6b+ on plastic
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Started the week feeling generally tired, battered and with a sore A2 pulley. Have been "taking it easy" on the training for a couple of weeks, but in hindsight a complete break might have been a better idea. Nevertheless managed a good start to the winter indoor training campaign at the weekend.

M:
T:
W:   Wall, Thalkirchen. Eight routes up to 6b+. Motivation Breakdown: feeling generally tired and weaker than Saturday.
T:
F:
S: FB max hangs. Start of winter training. Shifted things around a bit: was previously doing max hangs on a medium campus rung at +20kg; switched to small campus rung at +6kg.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. 10 routes/attempts to 7a. The plan was to do a relatively relaxed mileage session after yesterday's fingerboarding, but instead I got suck(er)ed into trying my mate's proj. Which was much more fun. 

[Sasquatch]

M - max bench - good session
T - Max Deadlift, ok session
W - work and get ready to host 20people
T - host a bunch of people for annual gluttony day
F - morning hard circuit workout with wife. 
S - bouldered for first time in a few weeks.  Felt ok on shoulder as long as no full extension left arm moves.
S - Abs and light cardio, shoulder rehab and stretching.

I haven't weighed myself in 3 weeks, weight has gotten out of control, so must diet ...

[Nibile]

Mon - recruitment warm up. Standing ab wheel, with a brief pause at full extension, x2. Great improvement! Then usual excercise with a 2 kg weightbelt around the neck and the new 6 final sets. Then max speed front lever pulls. Snatch high pulls x2. Agony and suffering and greatness.
Tue - rest. Ab Doms.
Wed - board climbing. Quick session to get back into it, managed to have a good link on a four years long project. Static dumbbell complex, snatch pulls. Ab Doms.
Thu - lunchtime session. Not too tired despite little rest from previous session, bad skin. Set a new problem, close to doing it but got tired in the end. Snatch complex x2, brutal. Ab Doms.
Fri - snatch complex x2, brutal. Added 2 kg to the bar.
Sat - outdoor bouldering! Yay! Yes, outside, with the great outdoors, the trees, the air, the clouds, the fucking sharp and humid rock, that kind of shit. Brilliant, but cold fingers on the projects, maybe I could stick to training for one of them for Spring. Very very good food planning, instead of usual bars I made a bucket of rice with eggs. Perfect fuel.
Sun - tired; rest, work and a quick motorbike ride.

Good week, solid sessions and a few breakthroughs, especially for ab wheel. Rock climbing is also quite fun.

[T_B]

84.1Kg

M -
T -
W - School lunch. 50 degree board re-set to the correct angle yesterday, so ran around trying moves but didn't complete anything as top section of board hadn't been put back on.
T - School pm. 50 degree. Basic Jez, 38 Flag (1st go.. impossible at previous angle), Woodology, Total Recoil 7B+, Pegos 7C, Mr Blobby 7C.
F -
S -
S - School pm. Dragged myself there after an unhealthy weekend. Warmed up and did a little bit of campussing, then had a couple of goes at Pink circuit. Just about managed 1st big link, but struggled. Switched to 50 degree. Did Schoolboy 7C (never managed this pre 2008), then after a few attempts did Basic Ben 7c (hardest thing I'd previously done on this board, in 2001).

The 50 degree board is now bang on and it feels very nostalgic climbing on it as the moves are as you remember. Despite the excitement of repeating these classics (and doing Schoolboy!), motivation is somewhat lacking generally and I'm amazed not to have weighed in heavier due to serious wagon fall off-age.

[filz]

Mon - lunch quick body weight session (pushups, L-sit, tuck planche). Evening fb max hangs. Good session though I wasn't able to hang on the slopers. ab-wheel 3x5
Tue - rings / bodyweight: recruiting circuit push ups, flies, plank. Then skin the cat and tuck front lever pull ups. Climbing on the board. Good session. Climbed one of the projects I was trying.
Wed - body weight: pull ups, squat, front lever, plank, tuck planche
Thu - fb repeaters 7"-3"
Fri - rest
Sat - bouldering on rock. Tried the same problem as the previous week and was pleasantly surprised by the improvements.
Sun - rings and bodyweight. push ups, squat, flies, plank, front lever, skin the cat, ring rows, L-sit. Hard session. Today I'm completely trashed.

It was a very good week.

[Ti_pin_man]

Ill

/end of me till Saturday THEN climbed two plastic 7a/7a+ when I took eldest for her academy class.  I put it down to having crapped all the spare weight out of me in the preceeding week hahaha

if only it was a joke.

[36chambers]

M - Thought I'd try out some Tabata training. I came across this click-bait-titled video



and thought I'd give it a go, since they made it look really hard. It turns out it was quite easy and the hench guys are just remarkably unfit. Followed with 2 sets of a barbell tabata workout I also came across. Similar to one of Nibile's finishes. Only used 10kg as I wasn't convinced by my form for some of the exercises, so it ended up being too easy. Will definitely do it again with more weight.

T - Lunch time circuits, shoulder mobility session
W - my first cold in many years
T - rest
F - Depot - Anaerobic capacity a la Barrows' pdf. 12-15 moves boulder problems, etc. It turns out all of the hard problems I currently want to do fall into this category, most of which I've done the moves but just need to link them.
S - Almscliff morning session. Played around on easy stuff, it was nice to be outside.
S - Depot - Anaerobic capacity, with a stopwatch this time.

Considering how ill I've been and how much work I've had on, this week hasn't been too bad training wise.

[cheque]

STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a

M-W Nothing

Th Birthday trip to Black Rocks. Everything damp so just picked up litter and took a few photos.

F Nothing

Sa Notts Dept. Good session, climbing well- it's amazing that I can now crimp without pain! For the second visit in a row the steepest wall was being rest so I was mainly climbing less steep stuff.

Su Rest. Walking in soggy Peak. Walked along an unnapealing-ooking Stoney and nearly fell of Windy Ledge in shock as a pigeon flew out of the start of Scoop Wall. 

[ashtond6]

M
T
W - 1 hr indoor session, nothing good
T
F
S - x3 6C's at Burbage & Raven Tor. Very close to a few 7As
S - only had an hour, did some problems that I couldn't even get off the floor on earlier in the year 

Good strength work out this week, especially considering the horrendous weather

[rodma]

M:
T:
W: easy campus sesh, pretty much warm up then stop and do some pull ups and press ups
T:
F:
S: easy wall session, with fairly decent campussing. 157 each side on the middle rungs and 156 on the smalls. not as bad as i thought i'd be given the lack of training.
S:

[the_dom]

Mon: Hangboard followed by bouldering. Solid session.
Tues: Run
Wed: Hangboard
Thurs: Weights (deadlifts) and hangboard,
Fri: Bouldering - ticked a 7C quickly. See YYFY thread.
Sat: PhD proposal work all day, only broken up by a quick hangboard
Sun: Rest and PhD proposal.

Decent week all around, but quite hard work. Fitting in PhD proposals around work was a challenge and killed most of my motivation for other things but hopefully I'll have something ready to start applying for next year quite soon.

[Wood FT]

Thought I'd join on as a means of motivation for next year through these dark times:

STG (1-2 months): 7B (Suavito?)
MTG (4-6 months): Raindogs
LTG (8-12months): Pierrepoint/Supercool

M: -
T: Wave - All level 2s but turned into sluggish session with multiple attempts on black up the middle. Left with a tired core from cutting loose
W: -
T: Wave - All level 2s then ticked aformentioned black, kept spinning off puprle on the left. Finished session with a short board hit avec Gritlad, burnt him off, must remember to try the Joker...
F: Family
S: Family
S: Partner reluctant on getting out his bed for the Tor so... Wave - All level 2s then ticked purple, finding the next 'spottys' a bit too much of a leap so worked green spotty and reclimbed three level 3s. Finished with 3 slow routes (6b- 6c+) and a weak display of core with instruction from Gus, lots to work to do here (yyfy/nnfn)

An indoor week, sad I didn't make it out yesterday as reports from the Tor were grim weather but dry rock. Lots of volume but, as ever, little direction. Will read an article/text Barrows

[duncan]

STG: Rehab. finger. Strength work: fingerboard once a week as finger allows.
MTG: 7a+ OS and 7b RP in Chulilla in the new year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.

M - Shoulder full routine: pecs. stretches, side-planks, press-ups, military press, YTs*, bent-over rows*, external rotators with theraband*. (Pull-ups or biceps curls if I’ve no ‘pulling’ the day before).
T - Shoulders and hips.
W - Westway: aerocap. x 10mins x 3 sets. Finger still tweaky.
T - Shoulders and hips.
F - Shoulders.
S - Shoulders and hips. Pull-ups.
S - Fingerboarding. Warm-up plus ‘repeaters’ on the big slots. 3 mins hang time.

Another busy and cold-y week but managed to do something every day. Shoulders feel good, finger slow to resolve. Tried easy fingerboarding instead of bouldering in an attempt to control the dose more precisely. Feels better today so will continue with a mix of this and easy mileage at the wall. Well done to everyone who is sticking with the programme.

*Any suggestions for body-weight / closed-chain exercises that emphasise the shoulder lateral rotators ie infraspinatus/teres minor? YTs, bent-over rows and external rotation with theraband exercises all hit the right muscles but are not very specific to climbing.

[jwi]

Hanging rows in rings/TRX?

[Sasquatch]

M - Thought I'd try out some Tabata training.

Not trying to be an ASS, so apologies if this comes across as such, but in training semantics actually matter quite a bit.  That is not a Tabata-Its a 20 second circuit.

A Tabata is 8 reps of 20 seconds on 10 seconds rest of the same thing. so 8 reps of 20 seconds of jumping lunges. The 20 second should be ALL OUT.  Therefore if you do an actual Tabata, it WILL kick your ass as you're going all out from the 1st second.  It doesn't matter how fit you are.  It's quite brutal, and is not a workout intended to GET you fit, it's intended to be a way to maintain fitness rather than build it. 

[Will Hunt]

M - Thought I'd try out some Tabata training.

Not trying to be an ASS, so apologies if this comes across as such, but in training semantics actually matter quite a bit.  That is not a Tabata-Its a 20 second circuit.

A Tabata is 8 reps of 20 seconds on 10 seconds rest of the same thing. so 8 reps of 20 seconds of jumping lunges. The 20 second should be ALL OUT.  Therefore if you do an actual Tabata, it WILL kick your ass as you're going all out from the 1st second.  It doesn't matter how fit you are.  It's quite brutal, and is not a workout intended to GET you fit, it's intended to be a way to maintain fitness rather than build it.

Tell him it's non-specific as well. He hates that