I'm a bit unsure on the whole weighted max hangs thing. Wouldn't it be better to do one-arm work even if it required a pulley theraband to take weight off or whatever, that way as well you'd be building up the shoulder stability required to hand onehanded, which then surely has more benefit in the real world, you know, big throw for a hold, hit it, feet swing off, usually you need the shoulder stability to hang those holds more than you need the static finger strength? You could spend years doing weighted hangs with your entire family hanging on your back as additional weight, but still never be able to do a decent one-arm hang of a generous edge.
For me just under 30% (21kilos), and that's on a good flat 1st joint edge (12mm I think)Personally I dont understand how people manage to do 60% etc!, unless they're hanging off jugs? Maybe im just pathetic!
10" hangs are far from being maximal.
Right I am thinking I need to add weight to my dead hangs. I tend to aim for 8-10 secs for max hangs and when I can do that make it harder. Just wondering peoples' opinion on the best strategy to add weight. Should I:a) Add weight gradually from no weight to adding 2kgs every 3 sessions or so, or...b) Dive straight in and find a max weight where I can only hold on for a 2-4 seconds and use that until I can hang for 8-10 seconds before adding more weight.
Ducko, do you do this a part of a bigger session or in isolation, it doesn't seem like much, even after an extensive warm up?My issue is that I'm only getting max 1 session a week at the wall (life doesn't half get in the way sometimes) so am trying to fit in some more fingerboard sessions. Two of your sessions, a wall session and maybe an outside mission for a morning doesn't sound that much if the fingerboarding only actually equates to 6 hangs of 7 seconds!
Quote from: JohnM on November 12, 2015, 10:42:20 amRight I am thinking I need to add weight to my dead hangs. I tend to aim for 8-10 secs for max hangs and when I can do that make it harder. Just wondering peoples' opinion on the best strategy to add weight. Should I:a) Add weight gradually from no weight to adding 2kgs every 3 sessions or so, or...b) Dive straight in and find a max weight where I can only hold on for a 2-4 seconds and use that until I can hang for 8-10 seconds before adding more weight. Shouldn't you actually be concentrating on sorting out your whack shoulder girdle and elbow issues, not adding more weight to your deadhangs?