[tomtom]

Caveat - Everyone is different, and there will be "strength" carry over from a wide variety of exercises. 

When I train finger strength, including a second FB specific warmup, I hang for a total of 60-80 seconds over the entire workout.   Your workout is 42sec x 4 x 2 = 320 seconds of hang time.  Can you tell the difference, and obviously which direction I would recommend?

Interesting. sasq - in guessing this is short bursts really close to your limit?

[nai]

I'd day that's pretty normal for Max hangs, in my last block I was experimenting with a 6-8-10-8-6 pyramid so total hang time was only 42 seconds. Saw good gains over 10 sessions.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[thekettle]

@AMorris It sounds like max hangs may suit you better - read Dave Mac's blog post regarding repeaters:
http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/02/fingerboarding-timings.html

[nai]

Before anyone notices:

I'd day that's pretty normal for Max hangs, in my last block I was experimenting with a 6-8-10-8-6 pyramid so total hang time was only 42 38 seconds. Saw good gains over 10 sessions.

Basically, if you want to progress on a fingerboard your options are: add more weight, reduce the size of the hold you're using, use less fingers or use less arms.  Which you do will depend on a few factors including your end-goals, current level, what injuries you're working around, what facilities you have available, how long you have to fit it in and loads more.

The only way of working out what works best for you at the current time is by experimenting, treat each block as a learning experience, record your gains, if it ain't working change it, try something else, repeat to fade.

So pick a routine and go with it, there's pretty much no right or wrong, it's mostly a matter of getting on with the hard work.

[Eddies]

Before anyone notices:

I'd day that's pretty normal for Max hangs, in my last block I was experimenting with a 6-8-10-8-6 pyramid so total hang time was only 42 38 seconds. Saw good gains over 10 sessions.

So pick a routine and go with it, there's pretty much no right or wrong, it's mostly a matter of getting on with the hard work.

Aaaaaaaameeeeeeeen [emoji106]

[moose]

 Aye. I suspect that most regimens rigorous enough to make you grimace are good enough for those not operating at the margins of the possible. Okay, some approaches might be marginally more effective than others, but the main challenge is devising one that is appealing enough that you stick to it.

Personally, a "lopez" style routine is the scheme that's had the staying power for me. Feels hard enough to seem worthwhile but in a concentrated way that avoids tedium and makes me more inclined to slot in a session even when I don't really feel like it.   A progressive warm-up (sets of repeaters then hangs with gradually increasing  added weight), culminating in a series of max hangs - 10s, 3 mins apart, with the amount of added weight that results in failure at 12-13s when at my best. Feels like it's working but without an identical twin to experiment on it's  hard to tell.

[siderunner]

Seems odd to me that +10kg is right for all 5 grips. I vary by nearly 20kg between the easiest and hardest grips.

On the BM cycle I'd feel i hadnt gone hard enough if i could face a 3rd set. I add 4kg on most of the second set - as per rctm -mind.

[bendavison]

Caveat - Everyone is different, and there will be "strength" carry over from a wide variety of exercises. 

When I train finger strength, including a second FB specific warmup, I hang for a total of 60-80 seconds over the entire workout.   Your workout is 42sec x 4 x 2 = 320 seconds of hang time.  Can you tell the difference, and obviously which direction I would recommend?

Really!? Is that when you're focusing on fingerboarding (if you do)? Is this a full session, or always followed/proceeded by bouldering or similar?

My current session is a total of 252-378 seconds on each arm, depending on whether I do 2 or 3 sets, if I complete every set (I reckon failure usually adds up to 20-60 seconds on each arm), after a warm up. I've never got on with Eva Lopez/very short sets though.

[Sasquatch]

Caveat - Everyone is different, and there will be "strength" carry over from a wide variety of exercises. 

When I train finger strength, including a second FB specific warmup, I hang for a total of 60-80 seconds over the entire workout.   Your workout is 42sec x 4 x 2 = 320 seconds of hang time.  Can you tell the difference, and obviously which direction I would recommend?

Really!? Is that when you're focusing on fingerboarding (if you do)? Is this a full session, or always followed/proceeded by bouldering or similar?

My current session is a total of 252-378 seconds on each arm, depending on whether I do 2 or 3 sets, if I complete every set (I reckon failure usually adds up to 20-60 seconds on each arm), after a warm up. I've never got on with Eva Lopez/very short sets though.

My full MAW workout(lopez version), which is preceded by a rest day, and is generally done without any other finger work is:
WU 3 x (20 sec bar hang, 15 sec rest, 5pullups, 15 sec rest, 5 ATB's, 15 sec rest)
FB WU - 10 x (10 sec hang, 30sec rest) these are progressive hangs starting unweighted on a jug, and ending with a 10 sec unweighted hang on the workout edge.
Progressive hangs - 3 x 10 sec hang adding weight each time
Max hangs - 3-5 x 10 sec at max weight

For my 5/3/1 version, I warm up bouldering easy for about 15 minutes. 
Then 3 x 5 x 3sec, progressing in difficulty each time,
then 3 x 5/3/1 x 3sec (depends on the week), progressing to a single actual max set. 

So on a MAW workout, the total hanging time is 295-315 seconds including ALL warmup, 60-80seconds of harder hangs.

On my 5/3/1 workouts, its 72-90seconds totally hanging after warming up bouldering.

I've got nothing against repeaters, but I don't think they are a "max strength" workout.  They are more of a "strength endurance" workout.  Think of it this way, a repeater takes a minute to finish of all equally hard "moves".  That is more akin to a 12-18 move problem of consistent difficulty.  Is that "Strength" or "Strength Endurance"?

So when you assess your goals and training to meet those goals, is that what you need to train?

[bendavison]

Cheers for the detailed reply Sas. That does look like max strength! I'm amazed you can warm up so fast. I've tried similar sessions in the past but never felt like they worked very well for me, hence why I do more volume now. Each to their own!

[Sasquatch]

Cheers for the detailed reply Sas. That does look like max strength! I'm amazed you can warm up so fast. I've tried similar sessions in the past but never felt like they worked very well for me, hence why I do more volume now. Each to their own!

This warm up:

WU 3 x (20 sec bar hang, 15 sec rest, 5pullups, 15 sec rest, 5 ATB's, 15 sec rest)
FB WU - 10 x (10 sec hang, 30sec rest) these are progressive hangs starting unweighted on a jug, and ending with a 10 sec unweighted hang on the workout edge.
Progressive hangs - 3 x 10 sec hang adding weight each time

Takes me about 20 minutes, and progresses from big muscle group to specific fingers and increases incrementally to max hangs.

If I do three max hans, I am done with the fB workout in 30min, 45 if I do 5 Max hangs...  seems like too little, but 20 min WU, and only 10min of max work. As I mentioned earlier.  It can be hard to recognize how little is needed for strength training.