[Fultonius]

It appears I'm way weaker half crimped that dragging. I can drag mono pockets,  but struggle front 2 half crimped. Mid 2 I can drag the small pockets pretty comfortably but half crimp is near maximal effort.

Is this normal?

Am I best training half crimped,  open,  or both?

I feel like half/full crimp is a weakness of mine, so I should focus more half crimp. But is it tweaky /dangerous?

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[Three Nine]

Split fingers half crimp is well sketch. To improve half crimp, why not use 4 fingers and more weight?

[Fultonius]

Split fingers half crimp is well sketch. To improve half crimp, why not use 4 fingers and more weight?

Bof, adding more weight at TCA is a right pain.

So pockets half crimped is on the path to IMPENDING DOOM? Same for back 3/front 3?

 

[Three Nine]

Get a fingerboard at home or take a weight belt to the wall? Ive done both in the past.

If you're new enough to hangboarding to ask the question, then id say that 2 finger half crimping is likely to end in upset. Probably same for front and back three, though less so.

You should train both, but mainly what you're worst at (half crimped).

[a dense loner]

Everyone should be better at dragging than half-crimping. If someone says they're better half crimped they're a liar or 7 stone or both.
Plus you've basically said you can half crimp front 2 and half crimp middle 2, albeit at maximal effort. This is outrageous half crimp strength! I can't think why you'd need it to be better?

[Fultonius]

Everyone should be better at dragging than half-crimping. If someone says they're better half crimped they're a liar or 7 stone or both.

Noted. I'm far from 7 stone.

Plus you've basically said you can half crimp front 2 and half crimp middle 2, albeit at maximal effort. This is outrageous half crimp strength! I can't think why you'd need it to be better?

I'm talking two handed here! I presume you're thinking one handed?

3-9 - I'm not new to hangboarding - I can do solid repeater sets dragging the small pockets middle 2 (2 handed!!) and have done a few blocks of fingerboard over the years, but I've always shied away from half-crimping. I read a comment from Gresh saying he only trains half crimped and it got me thinking...

[Sasquatch]

It appears I'm way weaker half crimped that dragging. I can drag mono pockets,  but struggle front 2 half crimped. Mid 2 I can drag the small pockets pretty comfortably but half crimp is near maximal effort.

Is this normal?

Yes

Am I best training half crimped,  open,  or both?

Both, but if you desire to improve your 1/2 crimp, then you should focus on training 1/2 crimp. 

I feel like half/full crimp is a weakness of mine, so I should focus more half crimp. But is it tweaky /dangerous?

Yes/No.  The fewer fingers you have engaged the more likely you are to get a Collateral Ligament strain/tweak.  You certainly can train for it, but take your time building up to it. 

For what its worth, I almost exclusively train 1/2 crimp 4 fingers on a FB. 

[Fultonius]

I just had a read of an older thread on 2/3 finger half crimp and I'm getting a better idea of it all.

Does this sound like a sensible approach - bring in some half crimping, but mainly 4 finger, with back/front 3 if it feels ok (I have to half crimp the middle and ring finger on back 3 anyway due to short pinkies).

Do some pockets, but wear women's clothes...

Add weight to the 4 finger half crimp if it gets too easy.

Final, slightly unrelated question - does anyone else feel the pockets are too close to the centre of the board if hanging 2 handed in them? Do people just use the large slot with less fingers to get a more comfortable position? I wish my lower limbs were in better shape so I could just bloody faff about "climbing" rather than this training shit... At this rate I might actually get a bit stronger 

[Muenchener]

Final, slightly unrelated question - does anyone else feel the pockets are too close to the centre of the board if hanging 2 handed in them?

The Anderson Bros certainly do, it's one of the major selling points of their Trango Rock Prodigy board.

[Three Nine]

Yes that sounds like a good approach.

I found the same thing with the BM. The Trango board is much better from that point of view. I have a friend who cut his beastmaker in half and mounted each bit at a distance which suited him.

I just have a rail now and do all my hangs on that.

[dave]

That's the price you pay for a compact fingerboard though. I reckon if you made the BM wider then on most domestic doors you'd be into "elbows on the doorframe" territory on the wider holds.

That Trango board looks interesting but it's fucking ugly as sin.

[abarro81]

If you're not wondering about how to climb your first 8C or 9b then I wouldn't worry about 2 finger half crimped hangs, even on 2 hands! (Exception is back 2 where in smaller pockets most people will have a half crimped ring finger).

4 finger half crimp is fine. F3 I don't find too tweaky, back 3 its natural for me to half crimp my mid and ring, it can be tweaky on mid finger a2 so build up gently

[SA Chris]

I just have a rail now and do all my hangs on that.

Towel rail?

[Nibile]

If you're not wondering about how to climb your first 8C or 9b then I wouldn't worry about 2 finger half crimped hangs, even on 2 hands!

Thank you Alex, I'm taking the ticks. Cheers.

[iwasmexican]

Being at roughly the same level in terms of finger strength, I find three finger half crimped one on the middle rung and other on the small a good level of difficulty without feeling tweaky. I reckon that if it doesn't feel dodgy then it must be good for your crimp strength

[Fultonius]

If you're not wondering about how to climb your first 8C or 9b then I wouldn't worry about 2 finger half crimped hangs, even on 2 hands!

Hmm 

I think I'm maybe at a stage in my climbing life that I need someone knowledgeable to watch me climb and tell me what my weaknesses are, beacuse clearly I have no idea.   

[kelvin]

Drink more. Live in Spain. Don't associate with people called 'nik at work' who wear unicorn leggings. That'd work.

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[abarro81]

Maybe you're just actually abnormally strong on half crimp rather than abnormally weak? What kinda stuff can you hang dragging at max, or one armed on any grips etc and what grade do you climb?

[Fultonius]

No idea!

Maybe I'll do some benchmarking next time I'm down.  I'm shit at anything one armed, so there's an obvious weakness. Monos in the lower mono pockets can hang for 10?? secs (no added weight)

Middle 2 in the lower pockets - again, not sure but they seem ok.

Grades - I did a few 7Bs in a few goes in the dolomites in the summer, flashed a few 7As. Was getting close to the last move of a 7C. Nibs - you saw me climbing a bit that day, any thoughts on what to work on?  I'd guess 7C wouldn't be too far out if I worked it a while but I've never done one.