[rosmat]

I have a broken rib at the moment, and so unfortunately I am not able to boulder.

I have found however that I can straight arm dead hang (2 handed) without any pain.

Can anyone tell me how to effectively train Anaerobic Capacity on a BM (in the interim). i.e. what protocols & rest periods can be used?

Alex?

[Probes]

I've done something recently resembling an cap on my board, 3 sec hangs with a release (maybe a second) x 10 reps. Had to add quite a bit of weight to feather it so I was getting the right intensity.

[abarro81]

I've done it before by doing standard (7 on 3 off) repeaters, 4 hangs then rest 1 min 20.. I now prefer the Anderson hangs session as featured in rock climbers training manual. I think the structure of the session is on the website, if not then I'll post it up

[rosmat]

Thanks Alex.

Do you mean this program? If not could you post it here?

https://www.trainingbeta.com/mark-and-mike-anderson-guide-to-hangboard-training/

[Three Nine]

That's the one.

[abarro81]

Not quite, from a skim that seems to be their beginner one. The other one is based on normal 7-on-3-off repeaters:

- For a particular grip you'll do 7 hangs (7-on-3-off) at 'baseline' weight
- rest 3 min
- do that same grip/hold again but with 5kgs extra, this time to 6 hangs
- rest 3 min
- do it again but 5kg added again (so 10kg total added to baseline weight)
- rest* and move onto the next grip

Baseline weight is not necessarily body weight, it's whatever weight gets you to failing or nearly failing at the end of the last set of hangs for that grip. If in doubt start with the weight a bit too low.
If you complete all hangs on a grip you add 2-3 kgs next time for all the hangs with that grip.
The order in which you train grips through the should stay the same between sessions of otherwise you'll find the weights that you've worked out will be wrong due to the fatigue from the earlier grips. Put the grips that you most want to improve on early in the session.

I generally do 5 grip types for a full session, after warm-up. I think they do 6, but I can't remember if one of them is a warm-up
* I rest 5 min between grips, I believe they only rest 3

You need a rest day after this session, it should leave you nice and sore the next day!

[abarro81]

Stu and I have both tried this (or slight variants) and both have liked it as a session.

[nai]

This is the intermediate programme:



Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[nai]

And the advanced one:



Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[duncan]

I've done a tiny amount of fingerboarding, I'm old so strength gains come slowly if at all, and I'm a complete punter. However...

I tried an approach similar to the Anderson's (or beastmaker repeaters) last year, using unweighted hangs: 4-6 sets of 6 reps, 7 seconds on, varying the rest from 3 seconds to 7 seconds off. I started with 3 seconds rest but this just felt like I was about to break, so lengthened it a bit. Total duration was 60-90 seconds. This felt like anaerobic capacity training, I was failing due to powering out.

After 10 sessions over 5/6 weeks, my 60 seconds endurance (10-15 move boulder problems) got markedly better but my pulling strength on single hard moves was hardly changed at all.

[rosmat]

Nai, Alex, et al, thanks a lot for the info. 

Will give the intermediate program outlined a try for 6 weeks - it seems like a variation on stuff I've done before which has produced good results.

Thanks again,