[petejh]

Quite an apt analogy, as the best way to get from A to B might be a Passat (efficiency), or a caterham super-7 (power-to-weight).

Does that mean that my 1991 Nissan Micra suits my kneebaring predilection - no one will like you, you'll feel cheap dirty, but it'll get you where you need to go.

Yes and you'll look a bit stuipid but ultimately it's sensible.


Mine's a van, provided by employer (no tax, fuel, insurance or maintenance costs), that I can sleep in the back of. All-rounder practicality.

[tomtom]

Quite an apt analogy, as the best way to get from A to B might be a Passat (efficiency), or a caterham super-7 (power-to-weight).

Does that mean that my 1991 Nissan Micra suits my kneebaring predilection - no one will like you, you'll feel cheap dirty, but it'll get you where you need to go.

Yes and you'll look a bit stuipid but ultimately it's sensible.


Mine's a van, provided by employer (no tax, fuel, insurance or maintenance costs), that I can sleep in the back of. All-rounder practicality.

Barrows - you're more like someone on a pushbike weaving through traffic whilst we're all stuck in it.

[dave]

Quite an apt analogy, as the best way to get from A to B might be a Passat (efficiency), or a caterham super-7 (power-to-weight).

Does that mean that my 1991 Nissan Micra suits my kneebaring predilection - no one will like you, you'll feel cheap dirty, but it'll get you where you need to go.

And will need replacing sooner rather than later.

[cha1n]

What sort of exercises are you doing to have such strong shoulders Rodma? Turning in like AMorris is doing is fine and quite a naturally strong position I feel but being able to resist the rotation is really difficult. I don't have strong enough fingers to hold my bodyweight on an edge yet but I wouldn't mind preparing my shoulders so that they are ready for when the fingers catch up. Is it just a case of trying to resist the rotation with less and less assistance until you don't need it any more or are there specific exercises to help strengthen the shoulders for that purpose? Thanks.

[rodma]

What sort of exercises are you doing to have such strong shoulders Rodma? Turning in like AMorris is doing is fine and quite a naturally strong position I feel but being able to resist the rotation is really difficult. I don't have strong enough fingers to hold my bodyweight on an edge yet but I wouldn't mind preparing my shoulders so that they are ready for when the fingers catch up. Is it just a case of trying to resist the rotation with less and less assistance until you don't need it any more or are there specific exercises to help strengthen the shoulders for that purpose? Thanks.

in all honesty, I've done so many exercises for so many years that it's hard to pinpoint. it probably started with clean and jerk though.

most recently I've found just doing a couple of good (see all my earlier comments on what constitutes a one-armer) regular two-handed pull-ups with hands close together on the bar pulling as deep as is achievable (no need to add weight for this), shoulder blades back and down, no kipping, no swinging, no chin-bobbing, no heavy petting etc.

this is far more beneficial than doing wide gripped pull ups, which give the illusion of hitting the correct parts, whilst hitting all the internal rotators instead

[AMorris]

Have rewatched a few times and you need to look again at your footage to see what I'm getting at.

Starting from bent arm is fine. The first problem is that if I was to claim that I could do a two am pull-up, you would expect to see my feet off the ground prior to any upward movement starting. The second is that you are starting with your body at a half twist but don't seem to be able to maintain this (you rotate even further under ) and the third is that your shoulder finishes way below your hand.

This is why I filmed myself the way that I did, because I can look pretty convincing doing a "1 armer"  if you were to ignore thes details, as in I can walk up the the campus board grab the 1st rung in one hand and pull to the 4th, but that's not a one armer.

Work in progress for both of us

Ah I see what you are getting at now. I have reviewed the footage and I make no upwards motion before my feet leave the ground, just a little tensing in preperation to take the weight. The angle of my arm does not change. I was pretty concerned with not kicking off or gather any momentum before leaving the ground, but I don't hang around for a few moments since it takes quite a bit of effort on an edge that small! I am also not sure that it is actually possible to finish with the shoulder above the hand on a one armer since you are, by definition, off balance and to address that balance you would have to over lock and push up a little with the finger to move beyond the hand line. Also the length of the hand adds extra distance which you would not get on a bar or larger hold. I was looking more at moving the bend of the arm as many degrees as possible. Also I don't think a half twist etc makes it any less of a pull up since it is still upwards motion generated by one arm. We may have differing opinions it seems! I appreciate the comments though, my form is significantly better on larger edges where I can do a few but that is to be taken for granted really.

AMorris - my only critiquing is that you should not touch any fingerboards or campus boards for 1 year and climb on rock as much as humanly possible, climbing on set problems when that's not possible.

If only! Trust me, it's not by choice that I have to maintain strength on a block of wood with holes in it, I get on rock as often as possible already but its no where near often enough. I am lucky that there is some decent rock around here but unlucky that I cannot drive to get to it, not yet anyway.

[rodma]

Ok I get your point about hand below shoulder, but wrist below/level with shoulder at least.

For me the half twist is much less of a pullup (especially when even that isn't sustained through the movement ) than at least close to face on, otherwise it really is very difficult to compare the movement to the vast majority of climbing moves, other than being able to cut loose on a hold at the lip of a roof.

Climbers seem to have the unique viewpoint of what a successful one armer is, probably due to the prevalence of cheaty ones that have been uploaded by various heroes. Look at some of the videos of those bodyweight freaks racking out multiple one armers to see what a one armer actually looks like.

Anyway, my point is just that neither you or I can do a 1arm pullup on a bad hold (at this moment in time ). I am barely locking off and you are corkscrewing inwards whilst admittedly moving partially upwards :D

[AMorris]

Ok I get your point about hand below shoulder, but wrist below/level with shoulder at least.

For me the half twist is much less of a pullup (especially when even that isn't sustained through the movement ) than at least close to face on, otherwise it really is very difficult to compare the movement to the vast majority of climbing moves, other than being able to cut loose on a hold at the lip of a roof.

Climbers seem to have the unique viewpoint of what a successful one armer is, probably due to the prevalence of cheaty ones that have been uploaded by various heroes. Look at some of the videos of those bodyweight freaks racking out multiple one armers to see what a one armer actually looks like.

Anyway, my point is just that neither you or I can do a 1arm pullup on a bad hold (at this moment in time ). I am barely locking off and you are corkscrewing inwards whilst admittedly moving partially upwards :D

Yeah it really isn't of any use on rock, apart from being some test of finger strength I suppose, I think hanging them is more beneficial for climbing. This is interesting because I didn't really think about my body position at the time, I just respond to what my body is telling me would be beneficial. I went out with the objective of pulling myself up on one arm on the small edge and thats it. That drags something interesting up for me to consider in my training now, so this was a useful exercise after all! I appreciate it

This is quite an interesting video with Jan's one armers (though you might not like them), he kicks off quite a bit however his lock is very deep at the top which I have not seen before on the holds he is using. I dont know how many people have seen it so I thought I would post it.
http://www.myspass.de/shows/tvshows/tv-total/Profikletterer-Juliane-und-Jan--/21346/

[rodma]

This is quite an interesting video with Jan's one armers (though you might not like them), he kicks off quite a bit however his lock is very deep at the top which I have not seen before on the holds he is using. I dont know how many people have seen it so I thought I would post it.
http://www.myspass.de/shows/tvshows/tv-total/Profikletterer-Juliane-und-Jan--/21346/

Haha

yes, he kicks off a little, but he is only at 45degrees to the board, isn't rotating further under it and is strong enough to both hold the hold and finish a one-armer properly, which as you say you don't see very often, because most videos are of failures claiming to be successes.

Jan is a beast.

these are the types of video I was on about, where although on a bar, the form is next to perfect and definitely constitute 1arm pullups



i've taken this thread well 

[AMorris]

This is quite an interesting video with Jan's one armers (though you might not like them), he kicks off quite a bit however his lock is very deep at the top which I have not seen before on the holds he is using. I dont know how many people have seen it so I thought I would post it.
http://www.myspass.de/shows/tvshows/tv-total/Profikletterer-Juliane-und-Jan--/21346/

Haha

yes, he kicks off a little, but he is only at 45degrees to the board, isn't rotating further under it and is strong enough to both hold the hold and finish a one-armer properly, which as you say you don't see very often, because most videos are of failures claiming to be successes.

Jan is a beast.

these are the types of video I was on about, where although on a bar, the form is next to perfect and definitely constitute 1arm pullups



i've taken this thread well 

Very nice form in that video, I think we can make the distinction between front on one armers and twisted one armers just like we do with pull ups and chin ups. Both are essentially the same but using different muscles. It seems in both cases front on is harder (though for two hands, I don't find that).

There are worse topic hijacs I suppose!

[highrepute]

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I reckon that's the Ferrari 458 there, that's what that is. No room for two in the back though, and he'll need someone else to carry his pads.. torso of zero mass etc.

Rupert, you sick puppy.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Here's a video of Dreamtime on the "hangboard" - possibly 8C - oh, and Dave Graham almost manages half a one-armer!

Sorry, but there's also some crimpy rock climbing.

[Nibile]

Thank you guys, Rodma especially, for setting me straight again. Front on, that is.
First session this morning, now my lats are giving shade to The neighbours' garden and are trying to rip my ribs away.
Cheers.

[Pako]

Here's a video of Dreamtime on the "hangboard" - possibly 8C - oh, and Dave Graham almost manages half a one-armer!

Sorry, but there's also some crimpy rock climbing.

this is a great video, one of my favourites.

[Nibile]

Ah that is a great video! It's been ages since when it came out!
Young Graham, V10s, razor crimps, yay!

[Denbob99]

The guy he's climbing with is the bloke who just won American Ninja Warrior

[Nibile]

From homemade videos with the original crimper, to Ninja Warrior... Sic transit gloria mundi.

[jwi]

indeed

[johnx2]

Sic transit

Init. A decent van's what you want, don't understand this Rolls Royce nonsense.

[cheque]

 

[Nibile]

I was expecting something along those lines. Unfortunately I sold my transit van three years ago...
Anyway today I made and installed these babies! Ready for frontal one armers training! image by Nibile, on Flickr

[Oldmanmatt]

This surprised me.

I thought I was ok on one armers, on a bar (fingers won't take the little rung  on the BM for that); but it turns out I can only do them square on by taking 8kg off (ie dropping my 87 to 79kg)!
And that's a big difference.
Though I have no problem transitioning from straight arm to bent, I can't pull in the top lock (so I guess that first part is not so different and that rotation in the forearm at the top is pretty stressful).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[AMorris]

I was expecting something along those lines. Unfortunately I sold my transit van three years ago...
Anyway today I made and installed these babies! Ready for frontal one armers training! image by Nibile, on Flickr

Looks good! Judging by the size in relation to other objects, they look about a pad (ish) deep? I am going to be focussing on frontals from now, since it seems they are the gold standard!

[Nibile]

That's a big cup Morris! 
The bigger one is around 20 mm maybe a bit more.
The smaller one - on top - is 14 mm.
Being incut is crucial for taking out the skin/friction factor.
One armers are a lot less stable than normal pull ups and front on even less so. You don't want to suddenky slip off!