[quejada]

hi all,
probably it's been discussed already, but I would like to hear some inputs/first-hand experience on the periodization training: pros, concs, do people recommend it, etc... and in general I-m interested to hear people advice on session planning, how do you go on about varying the stuff you do at the wall: do you follow a regime or monthly plan, or do you do what you feel like on the spot, trying to alternate endurance, power, etc...?

I recently moved to a new area, where for a change they have a more than decent bouldering wall, where I can finally go 2/3 times a week and train properly.
Before moving here I used to train only 1 a week in a very small, vertical only venue, and do some fingerboard at home, so not really super hard core training you might say.
So now I need to work out the best training regime for me, especially to avoid hitting a plateau  . I'm a bit afraid that without a well though out schedule of sorts, I might just end up going to the wall to repeat the same routine over and over again without any real gain in my climbing. So maybe I need some planning in my climbing sessions....

I recently stumbled across this article:

http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/smarter-training-through-periodization-the-best-15-week-program-ever/

did anyone tried it out? does it actually work?
thanks in advance

Q

[abarro81]

That's a pretty standard kind of cycle, but with very short phases. However, unless you're the most unfit person in the world there's no need to do an aerocap only phase IMO.

[quejada]

very short??? 4-6 weeks of  "two to four 10- to 15-minute traverses - remember: NO projecting, NO max climbing, and NO deep pump" sessions (phase 2 - Local Endurance, Technique, and Movement) seemed an eternity for me!!! 

[petejh]

That's a pretty standard kind of cycle, but with very short phases. However, unless you're the most unfit person in the world there's no need to do an aerocap only phase IMO.

That's why I do an aerocap only phase.

(know what you mean, I probably won't ever again but they are useful for injury-recovery or just plain sanity-preservation)


OP - the hardest part of periodisation is sticking to the plan when everyone else is going climbing. I did it for the first time this year with two cycles. It works, I felt the peak both times. But it's a fleeting thing and you miss out on shit-loads of outdoor climbing. I got injured literally in the first week of my second peak after sacrificing June and July to training - I wanted to throw myself under a bus.
And I don't use commercial walls to train - they're shite in n.Wales for training. Best training tools are a fingerboard, a 30/40 board, a campuss board, a steep outdoor bouldering venue. Nothing else is required. Unless you're the world's unfittest person^TM (in which case: 45min aerocap laps on a TR belay at the wall, or free-of-charge endless traversing at a suitable nearby outdoor venue). Walls are way too distracting/full of people using the equipment you need/too far away/expensive.

[abarro81]

very short??? 4-6 weeks of  "two to four 10- to 15-minute traverses - remember: NO projecting, NO max climbing, and NO deep pump" sessions (phase 2 - Local Endurance, Technique, and Movement) seemed an eternity for me!!! 

Like I said, I don't think many people need an aerocap only phase.

(know what you mean, I probably won't ever again but they are useful for injury-recovery or just plain sanity-preservation)

Yeah, it's good if you're injured.
You're right about the hard bit being sticking to it if it's a very strict plan. I normally build mine with quite a bit of flexibility in so I can still climb, even if I have to adjust what it is I'm climbing (e.g. bouldering when would rather route climb) - it's probably not quite as effective, but it's not as much sacrifice either, and puts all eggs in one basket a bit less.

[quejada]

ok now I got it, I had misunderstood the aerocap thing. so if a aerocap only phase is not so beneficial, what would you mix it with? or would you just write those weeks off your schedule?
cheers

[abarro81]

I'd train strength also.

[highrepute]

I do 10 to 20 minutes of aero cap at start and end of sessions. Good warmup/warmdown/movement training/recovery aid. Gets less boring after a while, then becomes part of the routine.