[rodma]

So fingers/finger strength are very important as they are often the weakest link, but strength in other areas - such as good core - will help us utilise that resource to our best advantage.

To paraphrase noted training guru Samuel Johnson "big guns impress small boys; strong fingers define the men; but he who aspires to be a hero must have the body tension of an ironing board"

That's the kind of body tension that immediately fails the moment that someone reaches around and squeezes your lever

[Monolith]

I think that it's also possible to have strong fingers but a weak body in comparison. Seen it a good few times!

[andy_e]

I think that it's also possible to have strong fingers but a weak body in comparison. Been it a good few times!

[Nibile]

P.S. Anyone who can 1-armer the small BM2000 edges but climbs less than 8B+/9a+ is either really short or really bad at rock climbing!

Or both.

[T_B]

No-one's mentioned contact strength?

Moving between holds is not a static process. It's all well and good being strong hanging statically off a fingerboard, but not much use if you can't latch holds at speed.

[a dense loner]

To be fair I've never seen a single person with strong fingers who hasn't had good contact strength

[T_B]

You're probably right.

I just can't get my head around how weak some strong people are 

[standard]

require video of someone one arming the small bm2000 holds.

[T_B]

There you go

[mctrials23]

I'm quite amazed at how little muscle that guy has. How big is he?

[dave]

There you go

Fuck me.

If that guy isn't climbing Font 8c then there's something wrong.

[Nibile]

I miss my onearmers.
 

[jwi]

Super impressive! But does that mean that using feet is ok for one-armers?

[rodma]

this is my point, those are not one-armers, I'm definitely going to post up my non-one-armers (and other non-achievements) either from this evening's or tomorrow evening's session. perhaps It'll just go into this week's power club entry at the weekend

[a dense loner]

I've watched a few of rich's vids, and enjoyed them. I knew that one would get posted sooner or later but that is the worst form I've seen him use. He can quite easily do proper ones

[rodma]

I've watched a few of rich's vids, and enjoyed them. I knew that one would get posted sooner or later but that is the worst form I've seen him use. He can quite easily do proper ones

I'm not saying he can't, any video is merely a snapshot (sorry poor word choice) of where someone is at on that particular day.

I'm keen to see where i am at right now, rather than where i perceive that i am at (which i think is a less grey, stronger, leaner guy)

[a dense loner]

And taller? 

[DAVETHOMAS90]

this is my point, those are not one-armers, I'm definitely going to post up my non-one-armers (and other non-achievements) either from this evening's or tomorrow evening's session. perhaps It'll just go into this week's power club entry at the weekend

First of all, Rich is clearly a "strong lad" with pretty good finger strength, but I don't think I counted a single one-armer there. There are loads of people who can demonstrate good strength in the "mid-range", but it's at the start of the movement - from straight, replicating full reach - and the top - trying to achieve full reach, where you're likely to be found wanting. That's where maximum load is going to be applied to the fingers.

[joel182]

First of all, Rich is clearly a "strong lad" with pretty good finger strength, but I don't think I counted a single one-armer there. There are loads of people who can demonstrate good strength in the "mid-range", but it's at the start of the movement - from straight, replicating full reach - and the top - trying to achieve full reach, where you're likely to be found wanting. That's where maximum load is going to be applied to the fingers.

Isn't the load on the fingers the same throughout the range of motion?

[shark]

Whilst fingerboarding last night my eldest son came in to demonstrate the one armer he thinks he can do. Fortunately I don't regard it as my parental responsibility to boost his self esteem otherwise I might have been conflicted.   
 

[andy_e]

[jwi]

Isn't the load on the fingers the same throughout the range of motion?

No not at all. It's much easier to hang in on the hold when you start with a kick. (I suspect that's because it takes about 0.6 seconds before the fingers reach 90% of maximal peak force (and about 2s to reach maximum peak force).)

[DAVETHOMAS90]

First of all, Rich is clearly a "strong lad" with pretty good finger strength, but I don't think I counted a single one-armer there. There are loads of people who can demonstrate good strength in the "mid-range", but it's at the start of the movement - from straight, replicating full reach - and the top - trying to achieve full reach, where you're likely to be found wanting. That's where maximum load is going to be applied to the fingers.

Isn't the load on the fingers the same throughout the range of motion?

I suppose so, if you only have strong fingers, no legs, and a torso of zero mass - otherwise requiring force to accelerate. I guess I didn't allow for that. 

For the rest of us, it's why "French Start" one-armers are easier. Or is that Frigged French Start one-armers, FFS.

[slackline]

The inertia that has to be overcome is the same* whether you start with a straight arm or bent arm since its the same mass hanging from the fingers that are in contact with the hold that has to be moved against the gravitational force.

This is separate and distinct from utilising a FFS which will help get things going whether you're starting with a straight arm or bent arm, although obviously if you raise your feet off of the ground first with either a straight or bent arm a FFS is then impossible.  Starting with a straight arm means the nadir is further from the zenith and you have to move the mass a greater distance.



* Heavy gravity days excepted

[AMorris]

3) if you can hang properly or do a one armer on the small BM holds you either need to go outside 3 times to enable you to climb an 8B or you need to quit climbing. This doesn't apply if you don't really climb

I don't understand why the flak I seem to be attracting is necessary. I should quit climbing because my climbing ability is catching up to my finger strength? Good logic! I train hard cos I can't get outside and when I do I never get on 8B, I don't think I have ever even pulled on on one.
So let's drop the "holy shit Arthur can't climb 8B, he must be the worst climber ever" thing shall we?