UKBouldering.com

Building up my back 2 (BM) (Read 12729 times)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 05:04:17 pm
Hello training gods :)

For a mid 7's boulderer, I can't deadhang on my back two (not even both hands - let alone one). To me this would seem to be an obvious weakness in my finger strength and probably low hanging fruit for training to lead to gain... Training the back two seems pretty obvious to me - do more deadhangs on the back two on the BM - starting on large holds and maybe working smaller over time.

But - I'm not at the stage where I can hang the back two - so am trying hangs on the back 3 - hoping this will strengthen the back 2 enough to eventually move to just them and onwards etc... OR - would I be better taking some weight off (I have a harness/pulley system) and slowly reducing the weight added over the weeks until I can hang them alone etc... I suspect this method (weights) is better - but its also more faff - so I'm wondering if (in anyones view) working the back 3 to back 2 progression is any worse?

I could always take some weight off with a foot on I suppose....

Hmm...

TT

rodma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1621
  • Karma: +60/-3
#1 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 05:21:26 pm


I could always take some weight off with a foot on I suppose....

Hmm...

TT

 :agree:

This, just pull hard with both feet on the ground, it's what i had to do for many of the grip types before being able to hang.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#2 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 05:23:40 pm
Another non-weights-faff way to progress would be back 3 on one hand, back 2 on the other.

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8810
  • Karma: +812/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#3 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 05:39:00 pm
just lose some weight, you fat cvnt







 ;)

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#4 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 06:57:16 pm
Caveat 1 - I am not a training god
Caveat 2 - I am not strong
Caveat 3 - I've only tried this seriously once
Caveat 4 - I got injured soon after and hardly used it

Back2 is a horrible grip to train, it always feels uncomfortable and sometimes dangerous when I do it. I went from hanging about 75% BW to 100% BW in about eight sessions.  If you're going to do it then do it in the safest way possible, to me that would be using a pulley and weights but I can see that habrich's scales method could also work possibly allowing a more gradual pull into the hang.

Regarding the benefits, I can't say I noticed anything significant putting it into practise but then I only climbed healthy for about 3 weeks. I'm trying it again but am not convinced it's not simply a party trick with negligible benefits, when do you ever use B2, you'd just use a Mid finger mono instead?  Maybe that's the point, I guess

My initial thoughts regarding you would be that I haven't noticed regular fingerboarding sessions in your Power Club updates, more like you do it as and when you're kept away from climbing. So you might benefit more by just undertaking regular sessions of, say, F3, F2, M2, B3, 1/2 crimp, 35s. I know you find this tedious but I reckon 10 sessions of overall improvement in strength across all grips would be more beneficial than what might be no more than a party trick and you could fit it in if you tried.


the_dom

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +10/-0
    • The Blog
#5 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 07:07:40 pm
Caveat 1 - I am not a training god
Caveat 2 - I am not strong
Caveat 3 - I've only tried this seriously once
Caveat 4 - I got injured soon after and hardly used it

Back2 is a horrible grip to train, it always feels uncomfortable and sometimes dangerous when I do it. I went from hanging about 75% BW to 100% BW in about eight sessions.  If you're going to do it then do it in the safest way possible, to me that would be using a pulley and weights but I can see that habrich's scales method could also work possibly allowing a more gradual pull into the hang.

Regarding the benefits, I can't say I noticed anything significant putting it into practise but then I only climbed healthy for about 3 weeks. I'm trying it again but am not convinced it's not simply a party trick with negligible benefits, when do you ever use B2, you'd just use a Mid finger mono instead?  Maybe that's the point, I guess

My initial thoughts regarding you would be that I haven't noticed regular fingerboarding sessions in your Power Club updates, more like you do it as and when you're kept away from climbing. So you might benefit more by just undertaking regular sessions of, say, F3, F2, M2, B3, 1/2 crimp, 35s. I know you find this tedious but I reckon 10 sessions of overall improvement in strength across all grips would be more beneficial than what might be no more than a party trick and you could fit it in if you tried.

What he said..

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#6 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 07:54:41 pm
Thanks Habrich, Rodma & Rman.

Useful advice.
Caveat 1 - I am not a training god
Caveat 2 - I am not strong
Caveat 3 - I've only tried this seriously once
Caveat 4 - I got injured soon after and hardly used it

Back2 is a horrible grip to train, it always feels uncomfortable and sometimes dangerous when I do it. I went from hanging about 75% BW to 100% BW in about eight sessions.  If you're going to do it then do it in the safest way possible, to me that would be using a pulley and weights but I can see that habrich's scales method could also work possibly allowing a more gradual pull into the hang.

Regarding the benefits, I can't say I noticed anything significant putting it into practise but then I only climbed healthy for about 3 weeks. I'm trying it again but am not convinced it's not simply a party trick with negligible benefits, when do you ever use B2, you'd just use a Mid finger mono instead?  Maybe that's the point, I guess

My initial thoughts regarding you would be that I haven't noticed regular fingerboarding sessions in your Power Club updates, more like you do it as and when you're kept away from climbing. So you might benefit more by just undertaking regular sessions of, say, F3, F2, M2, B3, 1/2 crimp, 35s. I know you find this tedious but I reckon 10 sessions of overall improvement in strength across all grips would be more beneficial than what might be no more than a party trick and you could fit it in if you tried.

Yeah - this is interesting... I've been FBing much more this year than previous - but in recent weeks been going out climbing instead. I'm a long way from a regular, but a bit more than infrequent user...

So - what use is training the back two? A question I can't really answer - but I know from this summer that a few holds that require unusual, or spread out finger arrangements (not the regular crimp on an edge) have left me feeling a bit weak in the finger department. I agree that in many situations the pinky does nothing - so back two is a bit redundant... but not for slopers?? Its quite possible that the real weakness (compared to many) is my ring finger. In many people this is one of their strongest - but not for me - I hate the ring/middle combo in pockets that some people love using... so I would suggest working the B2 or B3 is useful for building this up...

As a aside - one extra from doing more fingerboarding this year is that I've been focussing on doing it right. Arms well bent, shoulders fully engaged, chest forward, chin down. This has made me feel much more comfortable (maybe stronger?) when pulling onto problems in this way, and probably gives better body position too...

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
#7 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 08:00:18 pm
Back2 is a horrible grip to train, it always feels uncomfortable and sometimes dangerous when I do it. I went from hanging about 75% BW to 100% BW in about eight sessions.  If you're going to do it then do it in the safest way possible, to me that would be using a pulley and weights but I can see that habrich's scales method could also work possibly allowing a more gradual pull into the hang.
Took me about 6-8 session to get comfortable with it originally, and now if it's been a while since i've done it, it will typically take 1-2 session to get the "feel" back.  I used a pulley and weights. 


Regarding the benefits, I can't say I noticed anything significant putting it into practise but then I only climbed healthy for about 3 weeks. I'm trying it again but am not convinced it's not simply a party trick with negligible benefits, when do you ever use B2, you'd just use a Mid finger mono instead?  Maybe that's the point, I guess
People say this, but I'm not sure I agree.  I find that when I'm doing 1/2 crimp and open fbing, while I use my back two, they never get the same loading as the front two.  I know this is generally ok, but I did a few cycles where I would do 1/2 or open max hangs and added in a fews sets of back 2 at the end and found this to be quite effective. 

My initial thoughts regarding you would be that I haven't noticed regular fingerboarding sessions in your Power Club updates, more like you do it as and when you're kept away from climbing. So you might benefit more by just undertaking regular sessions of, say, F3, F2, M2, B3, 1/2 crimp, 35s. I know you find this tedious but I reckon 10 sessions of overall improvement in strength across all grips would be more beneficial than what might be no more than a party trick and you could fit it in if you tried.

Generally concur. If you're gonna do it, do it right.

As a aside - one extra from doing more fingerboarding this year is that I've been focussing on doing it right. Arms well bent, shoulders fully engaged, chest forward, chin down. This has made me feel much more comfortable (maybe stronger?) when pulling onto problems in this way, and probably gives better body position too...

I found this to be the case as well.  It's always seemed to help my overall upper body structure if that makes sense. 

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#8 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 09:12:21 pm

 in recent weeks been going out climbing instead. I'm a long way from a regular, but a bit more than infrequent user...


Be interested to hear other folks' thoughts but I'm not sure that fingerboarding every so often helps that much? I don't recall you ever recording a block of efforts so there could be some good gains to be made across all grips and combos.  Wait til the weather turns unsettled again (off the top of my head I'm gonna suggest late October, http://www.metcheck.com/UK/singularities.asp) and set aside three to four weeks to fit in a session every 3rd day, ensuring you rest the day before.  Day after can be a climbing day.  You can even climb the day of your session, just keep it brief, quit early and go workout.  Record every effort, hang weight, length and how it felt.  I'd tentatively suggest that you'll improve by >=10% over 10-12 sessions.  Once you start to plateau quit and go crush, come back to it in a couple of months.

This is my latest 4 weeks efforts, F3 in med slots (padded out) to 1st joint.  Quite pleased with the results seeing as I was working around a dodgy finger that didn't like even the slightest bend at the PIP, the low slots cause it to chisel in F3 and aggravated it.  Previous PB was 81kg so started a bit down but soon accelerated on, feel like I've plateaued now though, probably won't touch the FB again until December.

Kg    s       BW   %BW
78   7   60    130.00%
80   7   59.8    133.78%
85   7   60    141.67%
87   7   58.2    149.48%
85   10   58.8    144.56%
90   8   59.1    152.28%
91   6   58.6    155.29%
91   6   58.2    156.36%
90   8   58.5    153.85%
93   6   57.9    160.62%

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5781
  • Karma: +622/-36
#9 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 09:41:58 pm
In many people this is one of their strongest - but not for me - I hate the ring/middle combo in pockets that some people love using... so I would suggest working the B2 or B3 is useful for building this up...

Don't want to be pedantic but that's mid 2. Won't training mid 2 get you stronger for using mid 2?

And - you don't need pulleys. I just put the cord through the two bolts on my fb when doing a sesh that requires taking off weight. As long as the method is consistent it doesn't matter - and it sounds like you're not that anal about taking records of each fb sesh anyway? How much faff is putting on a harness and clipping 5Kg to it?

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3586
  • Karma: +312/-2
#10 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 10:03:34 pm
A few disorganised thoughts...

Using back3 as a stepping stone to back2 isn't going to work that well IMHO. If want to work back2 then use back2. Pulley assist/weight off/scales are all viable options. I don't use any of them, instead I would have one hand on back2 and the other on some different fingerhold config which in combination I can only hold for the desired/required/guesstimated duration. Then swap hands over.

As Sass has suggested above a lot of initial improvement is down to getting your body used to doing weird stuff with your fingers, similar to using mono's. First time no way that's never gonna work, couple of weeks later oh yeah I'm the back2/mono mother lover shamu.... Just cos you can't do it today don't be surprised if you can do it next week, but don't put that change down to purely "getting stronger".

Isolating fingers/finger groups is great for targeting weaknesses, but in my experience the individual digit gains don't directly translate into overall hand gains. Currently my left hand outperforms my right on mono's, but as a unit my right hand is stronger than my left.

As has been said, intermittent now and again fingerboarding is not going to do much, a 4-6 week block of targeted structured BM action will give results, be they improvement or injury...

Back2 is an odd grip, it feels very un-natural to me, might be a finger length thing or a BM design thing??, but I prefer the feel of training the individual fingers on mono's. Horses for courses innit?

Steve R

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 647
  • Karma: +53/-1
#11 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 28, 2015, 11:16:46 pm
Quote from: BM on back 2...
You what! No I’m not on crack, take a look at that hand that’s on the end of your arm there, now see that HALF OF YOUR HAND which is attached to the other half, that’s back 2, train it CAREFULLY and you will see a definite strength gain (a full grade in my experience) just be very gradual in the loading process, any danger signals and stop it and leave it the hell alone, get back on those nice safe slopers and do some CORE or something. Start training them gently on the back 2 pockets, then progress in the same manner as all other pockets. Aim for a 3 month improvement period or similar, improvements should start arriving after around 4 weeks. If injuries come instead you’ve either gone too fast too soon, or chaos theory has conspired against a tendon pulley and a series of random yet associated events has lead to an inexplicable pulley injury, tell yourself whichever you prefer (AKA the truth & not the truth)
Probably read that before but it's reason enough for me to give back 2 some stick..... 
I'm trying to progress to hanging back 2 on small pockets, still a fair way off but my current thoughts with the usual non-traing god, weak, pathetic, happy to be corrected, etc. caveats:
-pinky and ring finger position when back 2 on small pockets are identical to when using all fingers on an edge half crimped.  Being able to isolate and strengthen the weaker half of my default grip type (4 finger half crimp) seems to have the potential of making a big difference on most holds (>90%?) I'll use in the field.    'Low hanging fruit'? - I like that.
-I don't bother with back 2 in the other (bigger) pockets - doesn't feel like it translates to anything much since both fingers are open.  For me, feels more beneficial just hanging monos (bottom rung)  instead for training open grip.  (I do pinky monos rodma style, feet on the ground as nowhere near body weight on them.)
-ring finger monos seem quite easy (after quick neurological gains and losing fear of hanging off them) so it's the fact that the ring finger is half crimped on back two that makes it so weak.  Middle 2 half crimped seems like a good progression here (if a little dangerous) as the ring finger is in the same paosition again on both grips.
ramblings over.

Pako

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 136
  • Karma: +7/-0
#12 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 03:34:48 am
I don't have any slopers on my board, and my beastmaker tilts back a bit when I use it, so it's fairly impossible to hang the 45 on it. I have found that training back 2 helped my sloper strength a lot, and made me able to hand the 45s for a good period of time when I go to beastmakers at other gyms. It feels very strange when you first try it, and I know climbers much stronger than me who can't hang it at all since they don't train it, but I do think it is helpful if trained carefully. I started off doing it at a point where I could already hang the deep pockets on the BM with back 2 for a small amount of time, and progressed eventually to the smallest pockets. I think overtraining it would be a bad idea though, if I am fingerboarding I only ever do it once a week, twice at most.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#13 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 07:57:29 am
Taa Steve for the BM reminder and Pako (Steve - you back in blighty at the moment?),

Slopers are certainly something I use in grit season - so thats not wasted training. I remember a conversation with someone once (man in a pub/man with a dog/etc.. etc..) who was saying that in terms of layout of fingers, tendons and muscles - the ring finger has the potential to be the strongest single finger on the hand...

Anyway - the day after a set working the back three (warm up on large slots, then 2 x  ( 3 x ( 6 x 7s)) - my forearms are feeling a little worked and fingers non-tweaky. So I'll probably carry on with this for a week or two - getting used to the odd grip etc.. and then work on isolating the back two with weight or feet on floor (one BM - I have a home and away one - is too high for this).

Apologies for extensive use of brackets in this post :)

bendavison

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 338
  • Karma: +19/-0
#14 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 08:57:54 am
If you do set off on a B2 mission then give yourself some extra time to warm up (apologies if you're already doing this). I find B2 takes way longer than any other grip that I use (I don't use mono's atm...) to get warm. E.g. by the time all the other prehensions I use are warmed up to max, I'll barely be able to hang the hold I do B2 repeaters on, and it feels proper tweaky to do so.

Also, doing one or two short B2 hangs in the rest period before your B2 set seems to make the set less painful.

Oh, and lots of people seem to get quite a deep pain in the bottom of their forearm when breaking in B2. I've never heard of it getting worse/progressing to an injury, and always seems to fade quite quicklyish, but I imagine its wise to break em in slowly...

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#15 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 10:31:10 am
My progression was the obvious one of doing back2 hangs with reduced load - in my case using the-low-tech standing on scales approach, rather than faffing with pulleys and weights. I have been ridiculed for this before on ukb, but I showed how it works to Shark when he was over here and IIRC he thought it made sense (or he was just being polite ...).

Me? polite?

This must be the most safe and measurable way to do above bodyweight hangs. If I was training for pockets I'd definitely use bathroom scales. Feels a bit weird at first to be pulling really hard with your feet still on the ground.
 

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#16 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 11:59:15 am
Can I ask a favour?

Can you (everyone) post a picture of your hand, flat on a surface and then rate your strength of each combination (as you perceive it, so not an absolute measure)?
This has cropped up in training discussion here, where some very strong people manage pinky mono front levers and others can't get close.
We think there maybe a link to hand morphology, so a few more examples might give a reasonable hypothesis which might be testable...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#17 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 12:12:56 pm


Something like that.

For me.
Front two. - Strong.
Mid two - Strongest.
Back two - pathetic.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Muesli

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 134
  • Karma: +7/-0
#18 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 01:50:07 pm
https://goo.gl/photos/sUEUSKpeC4MsneFu5


for me,  front 2 strongest, middle 2 about 70%, back 2 about 20%

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#19 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 02:10:58 pm


Mid 2 strongest
Front 2 not bad
Back 2 fairly poor

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk


SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#22 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 03:31:12 pm
Thanks slackers, good to see you posting that cartoon again again.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#23 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 03:42:15 pm
Sometimes it's needed

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#24 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 03:45:12 pm
Yes, I needed reminding not to post things spuriously without adding a :)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#25 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 03:58:42 pm


Front two are the best...

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#26 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 04:06:28 pm
It's more to do with the relative position of the pinky tip to ring finger tip.

With our tiny sample, there might be a correlation between a pinky tip that sits definitively below the the DIP of the ring finger and lower strength in both the pinky mono and the back two combo.

I'm thinking that, in that case, the pinky is not often engaged at all during normal climbing (for me, maintaining a four finger drag or crimp is harder than three) and a deeper crimp is required to even begin engaging the pinky.

Wondering if this leads to a much weaker pinky in general and because the ring is in a relatively deep crimp before the pinky is engaged, a vastly weaker back two combo.

In which case, there might be some serious constraints to training the combo.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#27 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 04:06:29 pm

Here's some science to go with the photos

http://discovermagazine.com/2013/may/04-finger-length-ratio-can-predict-aggressive-behavior-and-risk-of-disease

FUCK OFF!! 

Oh, hang on I've an index > 1 so I'm a calm peaceful soul with a lower risk of prostate cancer :-/

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#28 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 04:07:45 pm
It's more to do with the relative position of the pinky tip to ring finger tip.

With our tiny sample, there might be a correlation between a pinky tip that sits definitively below the the DIP of the ring finger and lower strength in both the pinky mono and the back two combo.

I'm thinking that, in that case, the pinky is not often engaged at all during normal climbing (for me, maintaining a four finger drag or crimp is harder than three) and a deeper crimp is required to even begin engaging the pinky.

Wondering if this leads to a much weaker pinky in general and because the ring is in a relatively deep crimp before the pinky is engaged, a vastly weaker back two combo.

In which case, there might be some serious constraints to training the combo.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#29 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 04:44:43 pm
It's more to do with the relative position of the pinky tip to ring finger tip.

With our tiny sample, there might be a correlation between a pinky tip that sits definitively below the the DIP of the ring finger and lower strength in both the pinky mono and the back two combo.

I'm thinking that, in that case, the pinky is not often engaged at all during normal climbing (for me, maintaining a four finger drag or crimp is harder than three) and a deeper crimp is required to even begin engaging the pinky.

Wondering if this leads to a much weaker pinky in general and because the ring is in a relatively deep crimp before the pinky is engaged, a vastly weaker back two combo.

In which case, there might be some serious constraints to training the combo.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A fair point. Except my pinky is quite long - and my ring finger longer than index.. so I'd have thought they were more engaged.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#30 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 04:51:05 pm
Yes, I needed reminding not to post things spuriously without adding a :)
Yep sorry I forgot to put my  ;);)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#31 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 05:05:00 pm

Here's some science to go with the photos

http://discovermagazine.com/2013/may/04-finger-length-ratio-can-predict-aggressive-behavior-and-risk-of-disease

FUCK OFF!! 

Oh, hang on I've an index > 1 so I'm a calm peaceful soul with a lower risk of prostate cancer :-/

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#32 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 29, 2015, 08:21:30 pm
I thought I'd Google up a study or two on human hand taxonomy, morphology and distribution...

There is a plethora of studies on Paeleo humans and other modern Primates; including population distribution.

Can't find a thing for "us".

?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

2 Tru

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 45
  • Karma: +2/-0
#33 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 30, 2015, 02:39:41 pm
Before anyone starts to complain about the hand life delt them:


Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
#34 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 30, 2015, 05:56:16 pm
I'm thinking that, in that case, the pinky is not often engaged at all during normal climbing (for me, maintaining a four finger drag or crimp is harder than three) and a deeper crimp is required to even begin engaging the pinky.

I sometimes notice I feel more secure in a three finger open handed drag than a four finger half crimp.

Hand pic here.

Repeaters on the BM 1000 deep 2 finger pocket: front 2 bodyweight, middle 2 +6kg, back 2 -20kg

Oldmanmatt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably won’t last the week.
  • Posts: 7097
  • Karma: +368/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
#35 Re: Building up my back 2 (BM)
September 30, 2015, 09:11:36 pm

Before anyone starts to complain about the hand life delt them:



I've been shot at more than him, but it's not obvious what effect it's had on my back two hangs...

Kudos to the man though, I'd not heard that story before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal