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elbow management whilst in Font (Read 4219 times)

36chambers

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elbow management whilst in Font
September 11, 2015, 01:22:23 pm
I'm heading to Font for a week in a few days and my golfer's elbow is currently in a pretty bad state.

I was wondering if anyone had any advice on good practices on managing bad elbows whilst on a climbing trip?

Will wearing a tubigrip help?
Should I tape up my elbow like Megos does is the school room video?


Is there any point doing concentrics between multiple days on, or will this just put more strain on the tendon since it won't have time to fully recover?
Likewise, should I massage or stretch after a day on?
Should I voodoo floss my elbow into submission?
Will consuming my own body weight in protein help?
Is it too late to deadlift?

andy_e

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#1 Re: elbow management whilst in Font
September 11, 2015, 01:41:34 pm
Do shit-loads of push-ups plus these: https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2012/11/23/golfers-elbow-a-possible-solution/ plus a healthy dose of red wine and cheese.

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#2 Re: elbow management whilst in Font
September 11, 2015, 01:48:04 pm
Look for problems that don't fuck it up. Font has quite a few boulder problems so there should be some options.

I did my hardest problem in Font with a fucked golfer's elbow (El Poussif), because the crux involved a squeezy mantle with the (injured) left arm palming down which didn't aggravate it at all.

Also tape it just below the elbow, keep it warm, massage it before and after, ice after if needed, be dilligent at ALL TIMES (i.e. any sign of tweaking on a problem then leave it and move on) and no it's never too late for deadlifting.

36chambers

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#3 Re: elbow management whilst in Font
September 11, 2015, 02:29:45 pm
Look for problems that don't fuck it up. Font has quite a few boulder problems so there should be some options.

I did my hardest problem in Font with a fucked golfer's elbow (El Poussif), because the crux involved a squeezy mantle with the (injured) left arm palming down which didn't aggravate it at all.

Also tape it just below the elbow, keep it warm, massage it before and after, ice after if needed, be dilligent at ALL TIMES (i.e. any sign of tweaking on a problem then leave it and move on) and no it's never too late for deadlifting.

How tightly should I tape? Is the idea that it should provide a little resistance when I tense my forearm? 

I did El Poussif earlier this year with a sprained right ankle, it's a surprisingly injury friendly problem :)

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#4 Re: elbow management whilst in Font
September 11, 2015, 02:33:18 pm
I would massage and stretch as much as you can. You got a foam roller?

Warm up properly, don't thrash yourself repeatedly trying slappy sloper problems or hard mantel topouts.

36chambers

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#5 Re: elbow management whilst in Font
September 11, 2015, 02:42:49 pm
I would massage and stretch as much as you can. You got a foam roller?

Warm up properly, don't thrash yourself repeatedly trying slappy sloper problems or hard mantel topouts.

Yep, I was planning on taking a foam roller for my knotty back regardless.

Massage wise, I take it you mean just light but frequent massages? I'm concerned that climbing the day after a rigorous massage may make it worse, although this could be nonsense.

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#6 Re: elbow management whilst in Font
September 11, 2015, 02:51:35 pm
How tightly should I tape? Is the idea that it should provide a little resistance when I tense my forearm? 
It should feel slightly tight at rest, and moderately tight if you clench your forearm, and noticably tight if you bring your forearm up right to your bicep. You
need it to provide some resistance to forearm clenching, but not be painfully tight. This is what worked for me, from a lot of experience.

Massage the area gently to warm it up, and gently to reduce any scar tissue. You don't need to go for a heavy massage.

El Poussif was beautiful I thought. It's like a basking reptile, trapped in rock form.

As well as mantle / palming stuff, I found that razor crimps, gastons, slabs etc were all okay on it. Slopey compression, sidepulls, and powerful locks by far the worst.


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#7 Re: elbow management whilst in Font
September 11, 2015, 03:44:07 pm

Massage wise, I take it you mean just light but frequent massages? I'm concerned that climbing the day after a rigorous massage may make it worse, although this could be nonsense.

Rightly or wrongly I stretch and massage my tennis elbow a lot of the time whien climbing, and give it a good deep self massage using a roller in the evening after any climbing. Seems to work (mostly).

 

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