[mctrials23]

I was just wondering what you guys avoid doing on a day before a hard climbing session. Obviously you don't want to tire yourself out too much when you are going to be hitting it hard the next day but if you are climbing even 2 days a week its quite hard to include a days rest between supplementary exercise and the climbing day.

I understand that this is entirely personal but I just wanted to see what people consider too much.

Do you fingerboard the day before or does that leave the fingers a little overworked to truly pull at their max. Does front level training leave your shoulders and back unable to engage fully the next day etc.

Personally I find that core stuff is usually fine to do as long as I don't do something completely new and suffer doms the next day. Pull up based stuff doesn't tend to affect me too much either. Fingerboarding is hard to tell honestly.

Anyway, what do you guy do/avoid before a climbing day.

[Nibile]

For instance...
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20694.msg374585/topicseen.html#msg374585

[mctrials23]

Indeed 

Seems like it was a popular topic then as well!

[Nibile]

 

[Doylo]

Masturbation

[Nibile]

Power and CNS recruitment before a climbing day or even before a session in the same day is a very very tricky subject.
I've had totally different results from identical sessions. Sometimes I found myself strong after campusing the day before or even the same day; some other I was spent.
At the moment I prefer to leave everything specifically related to climbing alone, that is fingers, lats, core, etc. to do something general and full-body-oriented.
Timed weights complexes or sub-max hill sprints.
When in doubt, REST.

[Teaboy]

Masturbation

Wasn't Andy Pollit quoted as saying "I don't even get a hard on on rest days"?

[Doylo]

Footballers aren't allowed to shag the night before a match so there must be something in it.

[CJDavies]

If you climb regular i.e. 3+ times a week, then definitely rest the day before if you want full power.  If you haven't climbed for a few days then you will probably need a short, easy'ish session to warm yourself back into it (otherwise you will tire easily, or just be rubbish).

I find running the day before does not have an impact on power/length of session, and short core work outs are also fine (leave the push ups, or anything back/upper body specific.  Leave your fingers alone.

[Rocksteady]

 

Isn't this the difference between 'training' and 'performing'? If you're in a 'training' phase then train before you climb and accumulate fatigue before some future rest and peak.

If you are intending to 'perform' i.e. climb as hard as you can, then you need rest for supercompensation from your last training hit.

[tomtom]

Footballers aren't allowed to shag the night before a match so there must be something in it.

Though Paul Hunter (now sadly deceased) who was a professional snooker player - infamously asked his GF/Wife to 'relieve' some pressure during one of the short breaks - and he came back and won the match...

Depends whether you perform better relaxed or tense? (read into that what you will :D )