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UKB Power Club week 288 17th Aug - 23rd Aug 2015 (Read 10356 times)

Sasquatch

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Thanks!

I've got some big life changes on the near horizon(major job change), so my #1 at the moment is simply to stay healthy and try to maintain. 

rodma

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Mon. Dynamic campus. Great fun. Wiped out a couple of times trying 1-6.
Tue. Rest
Wed. Static campus and beasty.
Thurs. Wall session after long week, very tired.
Fri-sun. Friends stag do. Great fun but exhausting.

cheque

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Good effort Muenchener!

STG- More 7a+s/ maybe even a 7b before 18th September
MTG- 100 routes at Horseshoe Hell & "The Show Me State" in Arkansas next month & Wall of Horrors when I come back.
LTG- 8a

M- Rest.

Tu- day off work to hit Malham with Shark and Shark Jr and hopefully finish off Free & Even Easier. Midgy but not too humid. Nervous and fell off Consenting four times warming up, bolt to bolted F&EE shakily then gave it an even shakier redpoint, blowing the move to the the undercut you clip the chains off. Collective crag psyche increased as the afternoon progressed and I felt great on it next go- my first 7a+. :dance: fell off Consenting four times warming down.

W- Rest. Tired.

Th- Rest. Still tired. Cancelled plans for autobelay mileage session.

F- Rest.

Sa- First visit to Kilnsey, something I'd wanted to do for ages. Psyched to (attempt to) flash Directissima- something I'd planned to do on my first visit for ages. Arrive to find lots of wet rock (including Directissima) and lots of disheartened climbers, all reporting sweaty horrible conditions on the dry routes. Decide to toprope Sticky Wicket (7b, more like greasy wicket today) all session, to see how I do on a route of the next grade up but mainly as I'm feeling lazy and unpsyched. A daft decision.

Climb terribly, feeling gradually more fatigued, frustrated and discouraged and leave without even doing the moves on the last section despite throwing myself at them repeatedly. I wouldn't call it a wasted day and I'm perversely keen to get back when both the crag and myself are in better shape as I like the route and reckon I will have a chance on it, but with hindsight I could have made much better use of my time. Definitely need a break from climbing.

Which is convenient as...

Su- Travelling down to that London to fly to Germany for a week's non-climbing holiday.

Did a new grade & ticked my STG with a month to go but ended the week feeling burnt out and climbing terribly got a few tweaks too. Got loads of advice from TobyD on Saturday though which will hopefully be useful after I've chilled out here in Germany.

csl

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@cheque - Sticky Wicket felt like it was knocking on 7b+ to me - so it's not surprising you found it a lot harder than F + EE, stick at it! Ground Effect is an easier, good 7b at K.

iain

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Nice one on F&EE Cheque  :thumbsup: (and greasy conditions always make me feel like I'm climbing badly)

Muench, good effort on the 20 pitcher, anything you could add to this?

STG: Get big day fit for Dolomites, 10 days and counting  :w00t:
Weight's been all over the place but 65kg this morning which is more sensible than the 63 after the previous weekend which was too fast.

2 weeks worth

Mon: Works with Suse, harder circuit problems
Tues: can't remember
Wed: can't remember, something
Thurs: Rest
Fri: Drive to N.Wales

Sat,Sun,Mon: Gogarth. Should've made/read this thread first. It can be summed up as:
Ignore warnings about connies and head down early morning when it's really greasy - check
Then get on extra greasy routes - check
Then climb in the full sun on still days - check
Get arse kicked - check

It was fun but not necessarily that productive. Got a lot of E3 terrain done with a small sack including P3 of Rat Race which is a sandy, greasy chimney with a lot of back udging. If I can do that then the pack won't be a problem in the dollies.

Tues: Another full sun day at Gogarth meant we headed for the pass and Cyrn Las, did Lubyanka, (good fun,) and The Skull (the last two pitches are just brilliant!)

Wed: Works with Suse, I was knackered and hopeless.
Thurs: Cheedale, short session in a 3, reminded myself of the moves on Unleashing but no time for a redpoint.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Works for harder circuit problems, left battered. 4ish mile run.
Sun: Upper Two Tier with partner aiming for The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag. My second time on this and I just find it hard work and not fun, and still can't do the crux without feeling like I'm going to injure my fingers/tendons. Never again.

Felt battered at the end of last week despite there not being much volume after getting back from N.Wales. Rested yesterday so a week of volume then a few days relaxing before we head out.

duncan

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iain, climbing E4 in non-ideal connies sounds like great training for the Dolomites.

STG: Don’t get injured. Climb something long and fairly hard (for me) in Switzerland in September.
MTG: E5 OS and 7b RP by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.


M - Westway: aerobic capacity (10mins on /10mins off x 4). Good session.
T - Shoulder and hip routine.
W - Shoulder routine.
T - Edinburgh festivities. Fingerboard ‘warm-up’ session on door lintel. Shoulder routine.
F - Edinburgh festivities. Fingerboard ‘warm-up’ session on door lintel. Hip routine.
S - Edinburgh festivities, Julia Donaldson and her other half doing Gruffalo related stuff (including songs, don't give up the day job). The lad loved it. Back to London and Andras Schiff playing the Goldberg Variations at a late night Proms. Sat next to Yūko Shiokawa. Schiff is the anti Glen Gould: elegant and considered. I loved it.
S - Family trip to Weymouth. Stayed at the dreadful(ly expensive) East Fleet campsite, huge people in huge tents or caravans, not our choice. Sneaked off to Blacknor south for the afternoon, amazing skies, cool rock, and no-one around. Managed Oblivion is Forever; hoping sketchy first clip and a 6c slabby boulder problem resembles Wendestock.

Plan: easy week, flying to Switzerland on Saturday.



Muenchener

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hoping sketchy first clip and a 6c slabby boulder problem resembles Wendestock.
I gather that on the Wendenstock the Vertical Grass Of Death comes before the rock climbing, rather than after as on UK sea cliffs.

shurt

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Keep up the good work everyone.

STG: to do some climbing outdoors, anything will do
MTG: same old sport 7b, some good bouldering if the chance arises
LTG: V8, 7c, E6

Average week. only days of note were

Tues: 3 sets on fingerboard of Pu's and stamina stuff
Wed: ditto

Had arranged to go to Berry Head this week but the weather was crap and the only good conditions (Tuesday AM) I couldn't do. It feel like its raining for the next decade at the moment. Hopefully off to the wall tomorrow so looking forward to that...

webbo

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Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board tried a few new projects not the best of sessions.
Wed. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Thu. Morning board lapping a couple of problems using different footholds. Afternoon mums funeral.
Fri. Bike 73.93 miles 4 hrs 16 mins. Got a wasp in my helmet got stuck about 3 or 4 times really painful.
Sat. Bike 1 hr intervals.
Sun. Board lapping 2 problems different footholds and avoiding kick board. Walk with missus 5 miles.

mrjonathanr

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My condolences Webbo.

shark

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11.0-2 

M.
T.PM Malham with Tommy and Cheque. Drizzly and warmish. Very still at crag when we got there mid afternoon and midges were out in force and were a pain for the whole session. Warmup. Felt strong dogging up. First go from ground got thin undercut poorly but still tickled undercut by 3rd bolt. Second go from ground got do the throw but out of control third go tickled undercut. Rested on bolt then linked throw to midway back left on upper traverse. Despite having prepped with antihydral skin was delaminating. Tommy got progress on Raindogs and Mike redpointed F&EE his first 7a+  :great:  Got home 10.30pm. Good to get to throw move.
W.
T. AM Body Composition analysis – see below* PM Malham Got there mid afternoon. Warm up on Consenting. On dog did a key link of thin undercut by 2nd bolt to horn. 3 attempts from ground with best go touching but not grabbing horn. Final go attempted throw to top but was busted and didnt get very far. Improvements on previous session. Tommy did some good links on Raindogs - made easier by a guy called Pete who already had his rope on it. Good to do throw move.
F. Eve. Impromptu nip out to Burbage Bridge with eldest son who is warming to outdoor bouldering following Squamish. Did Wobble Block which was great. In fact I did it several times as the “rules” weren’t clear so did it increasingly direct which made for a superb final move. I messed around on Wobble Direct Direct 6C while Ben continued trying Wobble Block. This was much better than it looked and succumbed to a high heel hook. Ben gave up on Wobble Block but then managed to do the direct instead  ;D . Good little session - reminded me how lucky we are to have these things available within 15mins of home and should take more advantage of it.
S. Afternoon. Hot and humid. Ummed and ahhed about going out eventually drove out without a plan. Stopped at Burbage Bridge and decided there was enough breeze. Got on Mermaid 7A for the first time. Powerful little number. Not great conditions to hold the sloper. Monsoon came in.
S. Afternoon. Took all the kids to Robin Hoods Stride whilst Sonia went for a 3 hour run with Jon Barton. Decent wind blowing taking the edge off the heat. Went to the Square block to warm up. Ben and Tom did Spine Left Hand 6B. Then went and joined a team from Manchester on Grizzly Arete 7A+. Held the crimp once and pulled up but spent too long deciding what to do next. Tom had a go on Dry Wit. Departed just as the rain closed in

*Body comp analysis revealed that although I weighed in at 71.4kg (after breakfast weight) I had fat content of 7.5kg / 10%. This means my home scales fat readings are about right and can be relied on and more importantly despite weighing near all time adult low there is still potential to reduce further which wasn’t the case previously such as the last recording in June 2013 when I weighed in slightly heavier at 72.5kg but had fat content of 6.6kg / 9% or going back further to 2011 when I weighed in at 73.3kg and had fat content of 6.4kg / 8.7%. So the gradual trend towards being a less bulky climbers shape is all good. I am also pleased to have been able to stick with most dietary changes / lifestyle lessons from habrich (principally higher protein, less alcohol, limited carbs) which means I don’t feel especially hungry, tired, gaunt or have major cravings and am still making gradual losses and as of this morning (Weds) weighed in at 11st 0.2lbs / 9% body fat.
One further thing that was revealed was an increased left/right discrepancy in muscle mass distribution in my trunk. I had a check up with Steve Hodgson at Hallamshire Physio and it is likely this down to poor work posture / movement habits inhibiting muscle development on the left side and he gave some ideas to correct this.

Was hoping to have another session on the Oak last weekend but the weather as we know crapped out and it is likely still wet.

Nibile

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reminded me how lucky we are to have these things available within 15mins of home and should take more advantage of it
Amen to that.

JackAus

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Forgot that I hadn't posted yet.....

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

Only one session outside this week. Pretty shit really.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Flashed most. Campus, small fingerboard session and shoulder phys.
W: Sissy. Usual circuit. Repeated a V6 first go, finish move is still hit or miss for me so great to get first shot. Got back on Travis V7. So close to this. Its hard...
T: 9 Degrees. Fun session. Ticking some of the harder probs here which is good.
F: Rest. Here comes the rain...
S: St Leonards. Made stuff up. Campus. Fingerboard. Shoulder phys.
S: 9 Degrees. More fun. More hard probs.

Not a great week.

 

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