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IFSC 2016 (Read 155715 times)

Muenchener

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#525 Re: IFSC 2016
June 14, 2016, 07:16:13 pm
onbouldering.com has some good highlights footage of the women's qualis from Vail.



At around 6:20 we even see Shauna visibly having to try hard  :o

Muenchener

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#526 Re: IFSC 2016
June 14, 2016, 07:27:18 pm
... and here are the lads


Duma

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#527 Re: IFSC 2016
June 18, 2016, 06:48:46 am
Seems puccio was seriously injured in vail, herniated disc, will need removing and fusing, 3 months off.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1150135955047384&id=456682231059430

sherlock

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#528 Re: IFSC 2016
June 18, 2016, 10:33:33 am
Bloody hell,that's awful.Poor lassie.

a dense loner

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#529 Re: IFSC 2016
June 18, 2016, 06:13:28 pm
That is shit for her! Hope all goes well >:(

iwasmexican

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#530 Re: IFSC 2016
June 19, 2016, 10:14:01 am
i wish i was strong enough to herniate something

jwi

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#531 Re: IFSC 2016
June 19, 2016, 10:58:40 am
Shit, a slipped disc? Strange, she's not even that old, is she?

jwi

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#532 Re: IFSC 2016
June 19, 2016, 12:05:18 pm
Discuss. Or not.

The top male competitors either are on par with the world's best when they visit the great outdoors (Hojer, Ondra, Schubert, etc) or would be on par with the world's best after a few months of getting used to the new environment I'm sure. I agree that it would be more interesting if there were fewer strong competitors.

Rustam climbs outdoors for three days this year, does Hypnotised Minds. The best competitors are the best climbers.

a dense loner

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#533 Re: IFSC 2016
June 19, 2016, 05:08:33 pm
To be fair it's quite obvious he'd piss it, it's also quite obvious he'd piss woods other problem in magic wood 8c, name escapes me at mo. He'd struggle like fuck on things like the island, spectre etc. Horses for courses

slackline

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#534 Re: IFSC 2016
June 24, 2016, 05:08:10 pm
No idea of the competition hence lazily sticking it in here, but some serious topping out skills .

GraemeA

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#535 Re: IFSC 2016
June 26, 2016, 04:15:22 pm
It's the head to head from last year's Adidas Rockstars
« Last Edit: June 26, 2016, 04:30:59 pm by GraemeA »

SA Chris

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#536 Re: IFSC 2016
June 28, 2016, 12:02:54 pm
Rustam climbs outdoors for three days this year, does Hypnotised Minds.

Possibly a dumb question, but what sort of grade are the probs they do in the finals? Hard to tell when they make everything looks so piss.

lagerstarfish

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#537 Re: IFSC 2016
June 28, 2016, 12:09:23 pm
[UKC]

well, I've been climbing at Hard Severe for 30 years and I think the problems in the final look about 6C+

[/UKC]


jwi

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#538 Re: IFSC 2016
June 28, 2016, 01:13:03 pm
In the 7B-8C bracket? My experience of world-cup style problems is mostly through Romain Cabessut (chief route-setter in Vail this year for instance) who sometimes set problems in one of the gyms in Toulouse. His problems are impossible to climb regardless of the grade.

Muenchener

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#539 Re: IFSC 2016
June 28, 2016, 01:26:44 pm
Having had a fairly close nosy before the start of the semis in Innsbruck: the holds are a lot smaller/slopier/worse than they look on youtube

Duma

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#540 Re: IFSC 2016
June 28, 2016, 01:29:24 pm
Can't remember where, but sure I've read it's quite a big range, something like low 7's to low 8's depending on style.

SA Chris

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#541 Re: IFSC 2016
June 28, 2016, 02:51:05 pm
Having had a fairly close nosy before the start of the semis in Innsbruck: the holds are a lot smaller/slopier/worse than they look on youtube

Yep, I figured as much. When you look from behind most of the time it's a surprise when there's a change of angle and you see actual steepness.

fatneck

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#542 Re: IFSC 2016
June 29, 2016, 04:53:29 pm
When's the next one? Munich? Or is that the World Champs (or whatever it's called...)

SA Chris

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#543 Re: IFSC 2016
June 29, 2016, 05:17:50 pm
Looks like last bouldering is Munich 12/13 August. Quite a wait for an anticlimax for women's but men's is still open?

finbarrr

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#544 Re: IFSC 2016
July 23, 2016, 07:19:29 pm
NNFN
women's lead final in briancon starts with a run 'n almost jump
 :furious:

finbarrr

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#545 Re: IFSC 2016
July 23, 2016, 07:33:10 pm
Never mind, tiny Dinara Fakhritdinova just did it static, using what looked like a foot"hold"

cjsheps

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#546 Re: IFSC 2016
July 23, 2016, 07:44:43 pm
It's crazy that Kasja just came off so low, having onsighted 8c earlier this year. The level is so high in the girls' final!

Teaboy

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#547 Re: IFSC 2016
July 23, 2016, 09:09:16 pm
The commentator continues to be uninformed, he can't even describe what we are seeing. It was obvious that Jain Kim had got the sequence wrong having gone to higher side pull with her left so she couldn't press out with it, she was struggling on this move for a good few seconds so it was pretty obvious but he's still banging on about her slipping off. Unfortunately the co-comm isn't adding much insight either.

cjsheps

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#548 Re: IFSC 2016
July 23, 2016, 09:58:42 pm
The commentator continues to be uninformed, he can't even describe what we are seeing. It was obvious that Jain Kim had got the sequence wrong having gone to higher side pull with her left so she couldn't press out with it, she was struggling on this move for a good few seconds so it was pretty obvious but he's still banging on about her slipping off. Unfortunately the co-comm isn't adding much insight either.

Come on, cut the guy some slack. He's been (I assume voluntarily) turning essentially random events into narratives for two days solid now. The fact that you noticed that she re-adjusted and ended up wrong-handed just demonstrates that your perception is at such a level that you don't need a commentary. I thought he did a pretty good job to be honest.

finbarrr

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#549 Re: IFSC 2016
July 23, 2016, 10:18:49 pm
I find him really friendly.
But... Can you imagine a football commentator who is really friendly but can not remember the score, or who scored, let alone how anyone scored?
I love to watch the climbing , but the commentary is slowly getting to me.
The last two semi's were great, with one of the route setters as co-commentators, that's the way to go

 

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