[Fiend]

I can see how they didn't like it, that video clears it up enough, and it was a superb send by Sean.

[Durbs]

Good comp, pretty good production, great win for Shauna. To think she almost didn't make finals!

I'll admit to a little smirk when SBC was introduced as giving an "experts' view", can't say she bought much to the commentary. Is Liam in the running for next year? Need someone with a touch of verbal diarrhoea to fill in the blanks better than "the climber's just resting................*long pause*............".

Nice routes though, no run-n-jumps which was welcome (I'm assuming the setter's a glued to UKB to see what to set next). Nice to see a slab for the men too - great variety and all solved in a number of ways.

Akiyo doesn't look as smooth as last year - not sure if under-trained or just "off" generally. Similarly Anna doesn't seem to be reading the problems like her old self - still has the best smile though.

Dimi looked frustrated by most of the blocs, surprised he didn't nail the crimp fest though.

Can't wait to see Pooch in Vail, should make for a great comp with her and MM.

[SA Chris]

I can see how they didn't like it

Yup, he busted out some beta they hadn't thought of.

[Muenchener]

I'll admit to a little smirk when SBC was introduced as giving an "experts' view"

Oh FFS this is getting boring. She's been in a semifinal this year and is currently ranked #25 in the world. That makes her a considerably better qualified expert than, for example, you.

I offer no opinion on whether or not she's a crap commentator as I haven't listened to the English language commentary. In general I think getting competitors to co-commentate is a great idea. Of course some of them will turn out to good at it, and some will turn out to be not so great on their first attempt.

[highrepute]

Watched this last night. Another good comp. Well done shauna, won with some very strong competition. Shame Akiyo is off the pace. I'm sure her and anna will be back at the top soon. Still finding the woman's more compelling viewing than the men's at the moment.

SBC was good I thought. I'd presumed she be more vacuous. But she was genuine, offered some good insights when asked and clearly wanted MM to win!

[Durbs]

SBC was good I thought. I'd presumed she be more vacuous. But she was genuine, offered some good insights when asked and clearly wanted MM to win!

My smirk was a guilty one... I've heard her interviewed before and she comes across really well, think it was before the ABS '15 finals.

Muenchener - how was Killi at commentating? Assuming you were listening in German?

[GraemeA]

Muenchener - how was Killi at commentating? Assuming you were listening in German?

Kili was on Austrian TV, Muenchener was there live

[Muenchener]

Yeah, I wasn't sure whether it was the same commentary live & on TV but on reflection I guess probably not.

The live commentator was ok. Iirc in Kazo it was Yuji  and in Munich Markus Grünebach generally does it. He's been Bavarian state champion multiple times and runs a chain of bouldering walls, so also has something of a clue. The DJ in Munich is generally better; shame it's always in the school holidays when we're rarely at home.

[Muenchener]

I haven't listened to the English language commentary.

... except the bit about me & the lad at 3:12:00 to 3:12:02 

[Nibile]

I'll admit to a little smirk when SBC was introduced as giving an "experts' view"

Oh FFS this is getting boring. She's been in a semifinal this year and is currently ranked #25 in the world. That makes her a considerably better qualified expert than, for example, you.

I offer no opinion on whether or not she's a crap commentator as I haven't listened to the English language commentary. In general I think getting competitors to co-commentate is a great idea. Of course some of them will turn out to good at it, and some will turn out to be not so great on their first attempt.

She could be the expert of experts, or even declaim the entire Divine Comedy by memory, she still has one of the most annoying, squeakiest voices I've ever heard.

[SA Chris]

I've heard more irritating voices, didn't think she was that bad, must admit that i though she sounded OK and fairly knowledgeabe before realising who it was. And I learned from her what a valedictorian is.

[mr__j5]

Going back to Vail/altitude briefly as I catch up.

(BTW Graeme, AJ won in Switzerland the first year that she did a whole season)

The years that Diane competed at Vail she always commented on how most competitors would come back into isolation after each problem puffing and panting. Even on the slab. Which you don't normally get at lower altitude events. So anybody that didn't end up like this, due to whatever, would be at an advantage.

[battery]

The translation from Japanese to Englishis really crap but judging by Akiyo's Facebook post she was just really tired and felt week. Given that she mid read the beta a couple of times I wonder if this is a mental thing as much as a physical one.

As for SBC commentating I thought she was good, kept the normal bloke on track with the scores at least - he keeps saying watch the action and we'll worry about the maths later which makes no sense, especially when the competition is as close as it is in the women's at the moment.

[lagerstarfish]

the normal bloke .....  he keeps saying watch the action and we'll worry about the maths later

I'd forgotten about that - it annoyed me at the time

[tk421a]

I didn't enjoy SBC's commentary. Reminded me of Mark Lawrenson's commentary - never seemed to say something that added anything.
I think Sean did one last year? That had some insight into what the competitors are really thinking iirc. Didn't realise he had done > 100 world cups!

[Footwork]

Valedictorian would be a good name for a route though

[Coops_13]

Valedictorian would be a good name for a route though

Victorian Valedictorian? Or would that not work [emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jwi]

.... And I learned from her what a valedictorian is.

I thought she was great, however the definition of valedictorian was strictly speaking wrong (the valedictorian is the student delivering the valediction, which may or may not be the students with highest grade average) and slightly confusing since “class” has a different meaning in american english.

[a dense loner]

What did she say it was?

[SA Chris]

Whoever had the highest GPA (which means Grade Point Average - I was paying attention).

[SA Chris]

Valedictorian would be a good name for a route though

Valid Dick Tory?

[fatneck]

Just to touch on the altitude thing and name drop I was talking to Coach Glennie on Tuesday and he said they were flying out a week early to acclimatise which would suggest that they are taking the altitude fairly seriously...

[Coops_13]

Just to touch on the altitude thing and name drop I was talking to Coach Glennie on Tuesday and he said they were flying out a week early to acclimatise which would suggest that they are taking the altitude fairly seriously...

Only feasible flights include a stopover in La Paz though yeah?

[fatneck]

No idea, we swiftly moved on to talking about fly fishing...

[Paul B]

Just to touch on the altitude thing and name drop I was talking to Coach Glennie on Tuesday and he said they were flying out a week early to acclimatise which would suggest that they are taking the altitude fairly seriously...

Isn't taking it seriously sleeping in a large section of pipe with a DIY pressure reduction system that might end you should it fail in the night?

I drove from Squamish (over a day or so) to the Hulk in the High Sierras. Climbing the route (a 5.10) was bleedin' hard work. My head was pounding and I kept kicking holds rather than placing my feet on them. Also, on the walk in there was an altitude at which both Nat and I seriously slowed down (up until that point I thought perhaps people were just making a meal of it).