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IFSC 2016 (Read 157111 times)

finbarrr

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#275 Re: IFSC 2016
May 04, 2016, 07:55:58 am
i also did not see the results (watched the video on the ifsc youtube channel, where there are no clues as to who won), and thought the comp was rather good. except for the run and jumps.
almost all problems were do-able with a wide range of athleticism, tension, sketchy slopers and pure upper body power.

as for the commentary, it was great that Jerney Kruder was there, because when the commentator fills two hours by himself i start pulling my hair out in clumps.
this comp he mentioned the crowds reaction a few times, indicating that there was a crowd and that they were engaged, but i mistrust every single word he says.
but Jerney was engaged and so was i

Durbs

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#276 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 09:48:41 am
Mumbai Start List:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=1633

Not final at time of writing though.

No Tyler this round, VERY strong (and big) Japanese team.
No Indian competitors.


Duma

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#278 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 10:14:30 am
Mumbai Start List:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=1633

Not final at time of writing though.

No Tyler this round, VERY strong (and big) Japanese team.
No Indian competitors.

No Micheala either.

31 women, 35 men

No Indians (4 nepalese though)

Without the Japanese team you'd hardly need a qualifying round.

What a fucking waste of time, money, CO2.

IFSC should be ashamed.

Fiend

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#279 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 10:43:56 am
Finally watched all of the previous finals video. It was okay but not as good as Kazo or the previous one - not as good footage, and too many volume problems especially given the apparent heat. The running jump ones were obviously frustrating the boulderers who just wanted to, well, boulder. OTOH M2 was pretty funny to watch the finish and there were a few spectacular moments.

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#280 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 10:46:05 am
I'm with Duma that holding so many of these comps in boiling hot countries with no local bouldering scene is a complete farce.

T_B

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#281 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 10:51:47 am
Cool to see 4 Nepalese in there :2thumbsup:

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#282 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 12:44:51 pm
IFSC should be ashamed.

I was pretty much of that opinion too until Graeme pointed out, either here or on the other channel, that the IFSC doesn't exactly have potential host cities queuing up. Beggars can't be choosers.

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#283 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 12:51:03 pm
There's too many rounds this year as it is.

You could drop india and the second china round and still have a decent calendar.

GraemeA

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#284 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 12:53:19 pm
No Indian competitors.

Deadline for registration is midnight CET tonight so I would expect Indians to be added sometime today.

There will definitely be at least one (Prerna), she spent 3 months in Sheffield training here.

GraemeA

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#285 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 12:54:01 pm
There's too many rounds this year as it is.

You could drop india and the second china round and still have a decent calendar.

What second China round?

Durbs

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#286 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 12:56:31 pm
Exactly - Even stranger considering the strong competing nationalities; No French venue this year, no Russian venue (ever? Visa's too hard?), no GB world-cup round, ,Czech, Slovenia - all put in good teams but don't host events.

Also no Spanish venue, and it occurs to me not many competing Spanish boulderers - why is that?


a dense loner

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#287 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 12:57:16 pm
Then they should be proactive to find somewhere worth hosting, or cut the World Cup or something. What a joke of a venue. Holding it in a country that sends no climbers, that most of the top people won't go to is no World Cup! I don't mean to sound offensive but she probably climbs about 6a, token.

a dense loner

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#288 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 12:58:37 pm
The last sentence was in reply to Graham

GraemeA

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#289 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 12:58:45 pm
Exactly - Even stranger considering the strong competing nationalities; No French venue this year, no Russian venue (ever? Visa's too hard?), no GB world-cup round, ,Czech, Slovenia - all put in good teams but don't host events.

Also no Spanish venue, and it occurs to me not many competing Spanish boulderers - why is that?

No French venue, well no apart from the World Champs in Paris which will cost not far off 2 million Euro.

Maybe ask the BMC why there is no GB round  ;)

GraemeA

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#290 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 12:59:28 pm
The last sentence was in reply to Graham

Who is Graham?

Oldmanmatt

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#291 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 01:01:53 pm
However, this (the IFSC's host selection) looks to be a pretty good tactic for "spreading the word", as it were and might pay off in overall development of the sport long term.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Durbs

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#292 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 01:08:06 pm

No French venue, well no apart from the World Champs in Paris which will cost not far off 2 million Euro.


True. but the World Champs isn't a World Cup round... they've had Lavalle the last few years, just wondered why the switch given the French generally have a very good team. Are the costs roughly the same so the Champs is better vfm?

GraemeA

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#293 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 01:17:30 pm
Your memory ain't so good  ;)

In recent years they have had Millau in 2013 and Laval in 2014. They don't really do BWC's very often but do Chamonix and Briancon every year.

This is because the French work the same as most federations and rely on local organisers to come forward and provide the funding and man power and then the FFME come in and fulfill what ever it is that the national federation is required to do (a long list!).

This is the model for most countries except Germany where the WC is totally run by the DAV (no coincidence that the DAV is headquartered in Munich!). Even the events in Austria are pretty much run by the local organisers although the fact that the OEWK is headquartered in Inssbruck means there is a lot of cooperation.

Events in Spain were always organised/funded by Top 30 but now that they are part of Entre Prise it is hard to see another event in Spain

GraemeA

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#294 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 01:19:12 pm
The costs for the Worlds in Paris are massive due to it being held in Bercy (think French version of Earls Court).

The costs of the World's in Munich weren't too dissimilar from a WC as the venue and most other things were the same.

Durbs

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#295 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 01:48:49 pm
Thanks as always for the insider info - Spain in particular

Lavalle / Millau / Laval - It's all France innit ;)

fried

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#296 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 02:37:15 pm
There's too many rounds this year as it is.

You could drop india and the second china round and still have a decent calendar.

But then the IFSC wouldn't be able to wine, dine and bribe officials for Olympic votes ;)

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#297 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 03:02:40 pm
plenty of Indian competetors on the list now - both men and women

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#298 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 03:27:49 pm
Rather than moan about it being held somewhere warm, can we please get on to your local BMC activist and point out that the world champion elect gets fuck all apart from abuse about her shorts and surely we should be doing more to support competition climbing in this country, not worrying about climbing being more popular and thus not being able to get on Christmas Crack in June or "novices" falling off Wrinkle.

Props to India for at least having the balls to try to put on a show I say.  Bravo, bravo.  Maybe it'll be shit.  But it'll be a lot less shit than watching tumbleweed blow across the deserted plains of British leadership in modern climbing.  Now, excuse me, I'm off to read Kenton Cool's book about how fucking amazing he is at walking uphill again.

a dense loner

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#299 Re: IFSC 2016
May 09, 2016, 03:39:43 pm
My bad Graeme brain freeze  ::)

 

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