IFSC 2016 (Read 156784 times)

GraemeA · May 01, 2016, 02:43:52 pm

2 weeks time they are in Navi Mumbai (India), then 2 weeks after they are in Innsbruck, then 2 weeks (or mayve 3) they are off to Vail in Colorado. Then a couple of months off until Munich in August. Then 3 weeks off until the World Champs in Paris.

In the mean time the Lead World Cups start in Chaomix in July

Oldmanmatt · May 01, 2016, 02:46:18 pm

Ha! I posted that on Haldon hill an hour ago, I thought it had vanished into the ether...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GraemeA · May 01, 2016, 02:55:00 pm

Quote from: nai on May 01, 2016, 02:42:32 pm

Not the best layout but looks like 4 more rounds, seems a bit daft having 5 in 5 weeks then the final 2 rounds 2 months apart

5 in 6 weeks, there is next weekend off

The IFSC system is that organisers apply for their preferred dates and then there might be a bit of to-ing and fro-ing if there are clashes . But if the organiser says that it must be a certain date then the IFSC doesn't have much leverage to get them to move, especially among the more established events.

Eg 1) Vail is attached to the Mountain Games in Vail, a multi million dollar event of which we are a small (but significant) pat. The date is cast in stone.
Eg 2) Chamonix is always just before Bastille Day.

Other factors come into play eg weather - as we found out last year in Chongqing you don't want to be there in June, Shauna said it was 30 there this year but last year it was closer to 40.

And then other factors such as the availability of the venue come into play eg Munich in the Olympic Stadium. This is THE iconic venue that we have and as such gets a lot of leeway.

Plus having Munich 3 weeks before the Worlds works for a lot of reasons. But Munich should be earlier if there is no Worlds straight after

Plus Toronto was the week before Vail but unfortunately got cancelled otherwise it was a nice little trip to N America.

Duma · May 02, 2016, 03:52:43 pm

Is Mumbai still on then? Only 26 men and 25 women registered so far. Looks like the French team not going. Japanese and Iranian teams make up almost half the competitors. No Indians on the start list yet. What a load of shit.
The IFSC appear pretty much incompetent from the outside. If I was a competitor I'd be pretty fucked off with the whole business, it's not like there's any significant money in it, how are they justifying making people fly halfway round the world twice! (worse for the Japanese and Koreans). Put the comps in places where no one gives a fuck, and you can't even get a live broadcast to those who do! (commentated on by someone who doesn't know what a drop knee is).

The semis and finals are up on YouTube now but frankly I've not been arsed to watch them.

a dense loner · May 02, 2016, 06:44:28 pm

I'm not gonna watch them either, nor am I gonna watch the Indian one. N if the one after that is as bad as the last one I won't be watching again.

fried · May 02, 2016, 07:50:17 pm

I watched it....if you thought the last one was soulless

Paul B · May 02, 2016, 09:30:13 pm

Quote from: fried on May 02, 2016, 07:50:17 pm

I watched it....if you thought the last one was soulless

I'd have to agree. I'm not sure if it was the route-setting or the fact I already knew the outcome but it didn't hold my interest beyond the last problem.

Doug · May 02, 2016, 09:48:31 pm

If you don't want to watch the entire replay, Shauna has posted a short video on her FB page of her doing the final boulders. Also it's filmed by Leah so no dodgy camera cut aways mid-crux.

r-man · May 02, 2016, 11:27:14 pm

I tried to avoid finding out the results, but failed. I checked the IFSC website to see if the video was up but instead got THE WINNER IS SHAUNA! Great. Thanks for ruining the comp for me. It's just not that fun watching a competition with the outcome already decided.

I reckon the only way delayed videos can work is if the results are secret until the vids are online.

I watched it anyway, but I can understand why lots of people wouldn't bother.

Nibile · May 03, 2016, 09:20:06 am

Quote from: Doug on May 02, 2016, 09:48:31 pm

If you don't want to watch the entire replay, Shauna has posted a short video on her FB page of her doing the final boulders. Also it's filmed by Leah so no dodgy camera cut aways mid-crux.

Excellent win for Shauna, really psyched for her, etc.
But I'm so fucking bored of volumes. Jesusfuckingchrist. Running on volumes, jumping on volumes, mantling on volumes, pressing out volumes.
Stick three crimps in a roof for once for fuck's sake!

andy_e · May 03, 2016, 09:22:11 am

I don't mind watching people try horrendous volume run/jump/squeeze/invert/mantle nonsense in world cups, the issue is that route setters at local walls then think "that looks fun" and set terrible versions of them which offer no relationship to training for real rock.

SA Chris · May 03, 2016, 09:29:07 am

Training for real rock? What do you mean??

a dense loner · May 03, 2016, 09:59:16 am

I know i don't know why people still think that indoor climbing is mimicking real rock? If that was the case bendcrete would still be king and people would be complaining that the rough texture hurt their hands

andy_e · May 03, 2016, 10:05:16 am

I'd like it to at least bear some semblance to actual climbing so I can get something useful out of an indoor session! I realise I'm in the minority there though.

jwi · May 03, 2016, 10:31:41 am

Competitive sport should be watched live or not at all. How many football fans watch the replay of a match they missed two weeks after the match?

If IFSC wants to build an audience for the bouldering world cup, it must make sure that every event is live broad cast. Simple.

The Chongqing comp was great, (mostly) excellent and spectacular problems that split the field for both men and women. But anyone watching a replay when the outcome is known is a sad figure.

Muenchener · May 03, 2016, 10:56:04 am

I would have liked to see W3 from the qualis, given that only two people did it and neither of them was Shauna. But Chinese state secret, apparently.

lagerstarfish · May 03, 2016, 11:02:11 am

I've emailed Julian Assange, to see if he's got it

sherlock · May 03, 2016, 11:42:19 am

For balance and the view from the giddy depths of punterdom....

Mrs.S insisted on a news blackout over the weekend which was a good call.We watched the semis yesterday afternoon and the finals in the evening on you tube.Really enjoyed it.
Apart from the venue/background shots which looked horrific,like something out of Judge Dredd.
The highlight for us was Shauna on W4 in the semis

As for soulless,maybe for those with a soul but fortunately no-one in this household suffers from such a burden.

Fiend · May 03, 2016, 11:51:18 am

Karoline's shorts are the clear winner.

The first problem was not the most engaging start to a contest...

Paul B · May 03, 2016, 12:30:42 pm

Quote from: Fiend on May 03, 2016, 11:51:18 am

Karoline's shorts are the clear winner.

The first problem was not the most engaging start to a contest...

I thought I was just being a bit grumpy with regards to the running-start type problems (IMO there are far too many). I can see the thinking behind it of creating not only a challenge but a spectacle (I'm thinking CWIF here) for the audience but when they don't work, or they're too easy it makes for dull viewing.

ps - I'm aware setting these kind of comps is far from easy or low-stress!

SA Chris · May 03, 2016, 12:58:20 pm

Running on matting looks daft too.

Durbs · May 03, 2016, 11:09:21 pm

Hmmm. I'd (again) put myself in social media purgatory to avoid the results, downloaded the finals at lunchtime (1080p too!) And just finished watching them.

Very close comp, apart from W1 they were all really interesting problems, pretty decent camera work (nothing crucial was missed) and Kruder was a good co-commentator.
But.
I dunno, it just lacked atmosphere. Not sure if it's the venue, the crowd, the production, the commentary...? It just didn't draw me in? But nor did the last two either and it's hard to say why...

I think it's frustrating that it can be such a great sorry to watch, with physical and mental battles, and it's such a shame when this isn't conveyed. Will it just take over-caffeinated sugary drink company to plough in loads of cash to bring the whole thing up to the level it deserves? Any idea on a ballpark figure to stage the entire season?

Regarding volumes, I wonder whether this is partly for viewer's (live and streamed) benefit, as a tiny crimp can't be seen that well?

Anyway, yay Shauna! Hopefully Akiyo has returned to form.

Muenchener · May 04, 2016, 05:22:10 am

Quote from: Durbs on May 03, 2016, 11:09:21 pm

Regarding volumes, I wonder whether this is partly for viewer's (live and streamed) benefit, as a tiny crimp can't be seen that well?

It's clearly important that the problems look impressive and intriguing, which a blank wall with a scattering of barely visible crimps doesn't.

Otoh running starts are ridiculous nonsense and should be banned.

bigironhorse · May 04, 2016, 07:33:47 am

Quote from: Durbs on May 03, 2016, 11:09:21 pm

I dunno, it just lacked atmosphere. Not sure if it's the venue, the crowd, the production, the commentary...? It just didn't draw me in? But nor did the last two either and it's hard to say why...

I think commentary is really important. I like watching snooker and cricket occasionally, both can be pretty slow going at times but I think I would find them pretty unbearable without high quality commentary.

Clart · May 04, 2016, 07:42:34 am

I'm with Sherlock on this. Also managed to avoid the result and watched semis and finals last night. Thought they were great. Really strong Japanese team at the moment. Agreed that Shauna on W4 in the semis was the highlight.
It does seem odd that the comps are spread out for so long over the year, must be hard to stay on form.