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[Thrill of the Fight][E7 6c][Ilam Rock] (Read 1312 times)

Tommy

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Finally stopped falling of Ilam Rock yesterday and did the proper direct finish to Eye of The Tiger which I believe has been tried by a few in the past?

Climbs the meat of EOTT and where it would traverse out right, continues up the blank looking headwall via a few bits of mono pulling and long moves. Nice runout at the top and good pumpy climbing - I'm glad Spanish 8a's don't feel anything like this one! It also avoids any of that rambling and loose rock feel that you get on the end part of EOTT.

Climbing, placing the gear and being a bit gripped makes it feel way harder than any of the Peak bolted 8a's but then again it's probably just the style aspect. I'd happily belay anyone on this over the next few weeks if they want beta etc as I'll be down there trying to clean up one more line. Give give me a PM.

I'll try and put a couple of pics up when I get them.

shark

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Obvious gap. Nice one.
We're gonna need a bigger boat

Wood FT

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Nice one tom, glad to see you got it done. Limestone trad alriggghhttt, now get to Pembroke! Will be down Dovedale on the weekend I think so keep an eye out
Limestone means Limestone

Bonjoy

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Nice one Tom, very classy.
I'm looking into trying to arrange a Dovedale Church de-veg/cleanup atm. Keen to do some low level tidy up on classic E4/5 stuff in Dovedale beforehand too. You get any days free mid-week (by all means reply by PM)?

Teaboy

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Great name  :boxing:

Tommy

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Pembroke, Guy? Where is that?? I suppose I might be tempted if I could come down in your car boot sometime ;-)

Bonjoy - yeah I'm a midweeker more now as my weekends have kinda been lost to other stuff.

shark

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Nice one Tom, very classy.
I'm looking into trying to arrange a Dovedale Church de-veg/cleanup atm. Keen to do some low level tidy up on classic E4/5 stuff in Dovedale beforehand too.

 :2thumbsup:
We're gonna need a bigger boat

AlistairB

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Sounds great Tom and excellent name. Just one thing, surely if EOTT gets E7 in the new book then this is E8? I know Peak & Yorks lime trad grades tend to be pretty harsh but this certainly sounds a level beyond EOTT  :worms:.

Tommy

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Ah who knows? I just thought we gave sandbag grades to Peak trad lime? If you compare it to other trad grades of other rock types it's nails, but maybe within the genre it's ok. I'm a terrible grader anyway so I'd never rely too much on what I say :-)

Mark Lloyd

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Ste mac seems to have got his trad head on at the moment whats the odds of an onsight ?