[mark20]

I've cleaned up the wall in the bay between Moat and Majorca buttress at Water Cum Jolly this week. All the problems are sit starts, with hard moves through the bulge, usually on nice crimps/pinches, then fingery walls to high finishes. A nice evening spot.

From left to right -

Pinch Punch LH 6C - Avoids the crux by starting on the flake to the left

Pinch Punch 7A - Hard moves matching the pinches low down, then straight up the wall past the two gastons to finish on a flat hold above

Tiger Style 7A - Move up to a good edge with RH, then move diagonally leftwards past a good sidepull to gain Pinch Punch with difficulty

Tiger Style by 2010mark20, on Flickr

A few metres to the right is

Uptown Top Ranking 7B - Reach round to small holds and pop for a good edge with LH. Finish straight up to the obvious spike jug

DSCN9272 by Uptown, on Flickr

There's potential for a hard problem just right, using a higher edge/pinch with the LH and rocking up for a good hold

[Bonjoy]

Good work yoot. I've already used Pinch Punch at Bradley Quarry boulder BTW. I vote Khaki Suit an Ting as replacement.

[highrepute]

Another first ascent on this buttress by me but discovered by mark. Climbs just to the right of Uptown Top Rankin.

Nice set of problems on this buttress.

[haydn jones]

What are conditions like? Might will go tmrw if its all dry

[tomtom]

Nice Mark

[highrepute]

What are conditions like? Might will go tmrw if its all dry

Conditions are good on Uptown Top Rankin and Jacobs' Cracker apart from the slightly damp starting hold. The two 7as on the left have had a good clean and I climbed the left one on wed but they're still a bit damp.

[highrepute]

Me repeating Mark's problem.