Unless you're planning on using your fingers individually, i.e. routes with umpteen different sized monos, then whats the point in training them separately? Maybe if you'd identified that you got one finger that was disproportionately weaker than the rest, but otherwise isn't it just going to take 8-10 times as long to do a training session, and potentially not be very specific to climbing?
If you're pulling on index and pinky monos and it doesn't feel tweaky then I'd suggest that either a) you're very lucky and very uninjury prone, it probably doesn't matter how you train you'll get insanely strong anywayb) you're already too strong to want to listen to most opinions on herc) you're not actually trying very hard
I can see the value in training groups of fingers (back three - back two etc..) as there are many times when you get a hold without the full contingent of digits - but as Dave said - unless you're training for Action Direct then is there any great value in training individual digits? Unless of course you want to show off doing pinky one armers - in which case it makes complete sense
Quote from: dave on August 06, 2015, 07:30:11 amUnless you're planning on using your fingers individually, i.e. routes with umpteen different sized monos, then whats the point in training them separately? Maybe if you'd identified that you got one finger that was disproportionately weaker than the rest, but otherwise isn't it just going to take 8-10 times as long to do a training session, and potentially not be very specific to climbing?Precisely.. Does Usain bolt go one legged running?
Isolating fingers is the best way to train openhanded, because of the diffrent lenghts.
Part of the reason there are people like Macke spouting shit like he does in that podcast, is that nobody wants to be told the boring old truth about how to get stronger for climbing - they want to hear some new and exciting bullshit.
Quote from: Nibile on August 06, 2015, 11:25:24 amIsolating fingers is the best way to train openhanded, because of the diffrent lenghts.But unless your outdoor projects have holds that accommodate each finger having a differnt length, that allow your longer middle finger to be used in the optimal deadhanding straight position, whats the point?I'm sure Bolt does some one-legged strength stuff but I'm sure he also does a fucking shit load of running rather than hopping. I bet he doesn't train his toes individually either.Good knowledge from Huffy there.
Quote from: Nibile on August 06, 2015, 11:25:24 amIsolating fingers is the best way to train openhanded, because of the diffrent lenghts.your outdoor projects WHAT? I bet he doesn't train his toes individually either.
Quote from: Three Nine on August 06, 2015, 11:32:43 amPart of the reason there are people like Macke spouting shit like he does in that podcast, is that nobody wants to be told the boring old truth about how to get stronger for climbing - they want to hear some new and exciting bullshit.I think thats a little shortsighted really. Yes, we know how to get stronger for climbing but we don't know necessarily what the best methods are to get the best results. Most sports and their training methods are constantly evolving so I don't see why you think that we know everything about getting strong for climbing.
we may not know what is best yet, but we know how to get really strong. the hardest part is executing this properly and not fooling ourselves into thinking we are strong because we can do a shit one-armer, or feel like we trained hard because we are tired afterwards.
Quote from: rodma on August 06, 2015, 12:19:23 pmwe may not know what is best yet, but we know how to get really strong. the hardest part is executing this properly and not fooling ourselves into thinking we are strong because we can do a shit one-armer, or feel like we trained hard because we are tired afterwards. +1
Maybe if you'd identified that you got one finger that was disproportionately weaker than the rest, but otherwise isn't it just going to take 8-10 times as long to do a training session, and potentially not be very specific to climbing?
One arm hangs are better but I don't feel they target the fingers as much due to the shoulde, arm and back involvement.
Moreover: the study that jwi posted, which stated that the sum of the force produces by each finger individually was a lot greater than that produced by four fingers together, is highly biased because of the different holds used to measure each. The four fingers half crimp cannot be related to four single fingers dragged.
Why they didn't measure the force of the individual fingers on the same wooden edge, I'll never know, and I suspect that explains why the deficit was so large.
Training doesn't have to be fun. If you're having fun, often you're not training at your best. Performing is fun.
...but I have to say that Macke made a terrible impression. Being unable to express your innovative training concepts in a clear and simple way is not good neither professional. Hiding behind strange words or confused explanations is a very poor show, especially if you're trying to revolution climbing's training well proven basics.
Isolating fingers is probably not a great idea for half crimping due to the lateral forces and the lack of stabilising fingers so I was planning to use standards methods to train that but I'm certainly going to give the one finger training a go on my open hand.
Isolating muscles seems like a worthwhile means of determining if you have a weakness in the overall chain.