[andy_e]

Anyone got any clues/video beta on how to do the following?

Disclaimer:

Couldn't pull on. Seems like a one-mover. Anybody got any tips on where/how to pull on for a person of longer leg? I was trying various methods involving using the sharp small slot low down and just right of the arete for my right hand, then the crap slopey chickenhead way out left for my left. I managed to pull on like this from stacked mats, but not do the next move... Seems desperate!

AB's Problem:

7A prow? Right up my street! Er, except I couldn't do the move from the crinkly edges up around the arete to the right-hand dish. Then, once I'd pulled on from the slopey dish (as a stack, the only way I could get anything out of it), I couldn't wokr out how to go up into the good sloper. Tried heel out left (terrifying), guppying the arete with my left to try and go again, sitting on my left foot on a good edge and locking (desperate), nothing worked! Any clues anyone?

Ta all!

[Fiend]

AB's Problem:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25554.0.html  + snap. Seemed pretty outrageous to me, must be bad if you can't lank to the sloper.

[andy_e]

Some AB's beta here courtesy of Dr. P:

[Fiend]

Of course - the solution is to be a 7C+ climber. Silly me.

[Fiend]

What's the verdict on ABs then? Just a sandbag?

[andy_e]

There's evidence to suggest it's not a sandbag, I think it's probably just a combination of poor conditions and not being able to commit to the high heel that Andy uses in that video.

[spid3rz]

I got AB's in the spring, I climbed it like Andy did in the video. I found the heel placement weird (as in a few inches to the right and I couldn't reach the crimp before the ledge and it felt impossible). It you haven't all ready done it 'Long Reach' is worth a look in the same area.

[Fultonius]

I got AB's in the spring, I climbed it like Andy did in the video. I found the heel placement weird (as in a few inches to the right and I couldn't reach the crimp before the ledge and it felt impossible). It you haven't all ready done it 'Long Reach' is worth a look in the same area.

Is The Long Reach the one starting under the arete of AB's problem, with a big sidepull/rounded flange, up to the undercling pocket?  Got pretty close yesterday, but no cigar.

p.s. I don't have the bouldering guide - is there a new one in the pipeline, or is the 2008 version still pretty up to date?

[Fultonius]

Thought I'd waste some of Vimeo's storage space withmy shoddy flash attempt, floowed by more floundering, on Hanging Arete:  https://vimeo.com/173884143#t=33s

[Pebblespanker]

Perplexing little swine isn't it? Not sure what the official method is but I did it starting hanging pinching the arête with both hands inverted with bent legs bent and dangling under me and sort of dyno-guppied up 1 move, RF/heel onto foothold you have your left on, adjust/sort balance then pop for the obvious jug with RH, looks very improbable for 6A that way but actually feels OK but may be cramped for anyone taller that me?? Check the photo of Mr Earl in the guide for hand positions. I didn't use that RH hold at all just the arête. Hope the my punter description helps!

[spid3rz]

Is The Long Reach the one starting under the arete of AB's problem, with a big sidepull/rounded flange, up to the undercling pocket?  Got pretty close yesterday, but no cigar.

p.s. I don't have the bouldering guide - is there a new one in the pipeline, or is the 2008 version still pretty up to date?

The long reach is to the right of AB's problem and starts beneath the roof using a small pocket. The 2008 is the latest guide and fairly up to date.

[Steve Crowe]

Thought I'd waste some of Vimeo's storage space withmy shoddy flash attempt, floowed by more floundering, on Hanging Arete:  https://vimeo.com/173884143#t=33s

Match the arete, thumbs down if I remember correctly.

[SA Chris]

thumbs down

That method definitely gets the thumbs down.