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Film proof discussion split from significant repeats (Read 41516 times)

Mumra

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I can see how Fatman could all easily be a misunderstanding, there are an awful lot of poor undercuts in that roof and younger generations who haven't seen it climbed to an eclectic mash of percussion instruments may not fully understand the history there (or know what a VHS is).

Love that film...
++1

Climbing in Pajamas

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Sorry Rodma I've been busy this week and last!

Still not sure how to add an image... :/ Is it possible? once I know I will add it. Although I sure its about two move into the original line. But according the the vague description in 7+8 "Start low on a mono in the middle of the roof and undercling underneath" i could have easily been there. The start ellis did was two / three moves off the dyno to the lip. If that helps.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2016, 06:30:40 pm by Climbing in Pajamas »

36chambers

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Sorry Rodma I've been busy this week and last!

Still not sure how to add an image... :/ Is it possible once I know I will add it.

Upload the image onto http://www.imgur.com/ and paste the link in this thread?

Climbing in Pajamas

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There is the link.
I know the left hand is obscured but it's the best I have. The first move he did was a left hand bump then I believe a right hand move then right again to the lip.

http://imgur.com/PrW1YcT

« Last Edit: February 09, 2016, 06:38:39 pm by Climbing in Pajamas »

Climbing in Pajamas

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Judging by some pictures on bleau.info its only a slightly different left hand hold from how these people have started it. https://bleau.info/rempart/356.html

Fultonius

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There is the link.
I know the left hand is obscured but it's the best I have. The first move he did was a left hand bump then I believe a right hand move then right again to the lip.

http://imgur.com/PrW1YcT



 :lol:  :slap:  Oh the irony!  I take it you didn't to post a photo of some lad standing on the ground touching a boulder?

Jim

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You aren't doing your friend any favours in this thread! Now where is that photo of me stood infront of dreamtime  :whistle:

Climbing in Pajamas

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 :lol:  :slap:  Oh the irony!  I take it you didn't to post a photo of some lad standing on the ground touching a boulder?

Firstly it's not really ironic is it? Secondly the rest of that sentence doesn't make any sense.
Also It's a screen grab from an attempt, cant be bothered to go digging in my hard drive again and take a second screen grab of him pulling on.

 :wall:

Climbing in Pajamas

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You aren't doing your friend any favours in this thread! Now where is that photo of me stood infront of dreamtime  :whistle:

I was merely trying to settle the issue of starting holds. Rodma asked for the photo. 

Fultonius

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OK...my bad - I thought the photo was meant to be someone on a problem, not just someone fondling a starting hold.

Sasquatch

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Why not upload the attempt to vimeo/youtube and then just share that link...  It would settle any questions about starting position.

phenocryst

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If you've gone to the trouble of getting a screen grab the clip of the actual attempt might
slightly less obtuse / more illuminating, no? :popcorn:

Will Hunt

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 :lol:  :slap:  Oh the irony!  I take it you didn't to post a photo of some lad standing on the ground touching a boulder?

Firstly it's not really ironic is it? Secondly the rest of that sentence doesn't make any sense.
Also It's a screen grab from an attempt, cant be bothered to go digging in my hard drive again and take a second screen grab of him pulling on.

 :wall:

This really isn't doing Ellis any favours. If its a screen grab from a video then just chuck the video on youtube and let people see it and then the speculation can be over. You've spent so much time replying to this thread now, you could have just "dug in your hard drive" (how hard can that be? Its not a room full of filing cabinets), posted it, and this could all be over.

Oldmanmatt

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 :lol:  :slap:  Oh the irony!  I take it you didn't to post a photo of some lad standing on the ground touching a boulder?

Firstly it's not really ironic is it? Secondly the rest of that sentence doesn't make any sense.
Also It's a screen grab from an attempt, cant be bothered to go digging in my hard drive again and take a second screen grab of him pulling on.

 :wall:

This really isn't doing Ellis any favours. If its a screen grab from a video then just chuck the video on youtube and let people see it and then the speculation can be over. You've spent so much time replying to this thread now, you could have just "dug in your hard drive" (how hard can that be? Its not a room full of filing cabinets), posted it, and this could all be over.

Things are a bit different down here in Devon, our technology is a bit advanced for you Northern Mill workers to grasp...

Mrs PJ's is working on your request.



Now, where did I leave my cows...?


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Three Nine

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I can't pm everyone.
- He really can climb.
- He's young.
- There is a backstory.
- At a guess and after talking privately to several that were "around" at the time, he probably did it. I think. Maybe.
- I have not always had the best relationship with him or his ex.
- He really can climb.
- No-one has been willing to swear that he did it (except PJ's above not sure who that is).

I would guess he's probably learnt a lesson? I started out quite sceptical, now 6/10 in favour of "he did it".

Edit

It's also none of my business and I know that. Just feel compelled to comment and look into it because of a loose connection to the lad. He always struck me as the type who might let ego overcome common sense though. I say this as an established Pot to his Kettle.


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The obvious (to me) analogy is with Rich Simpson. Video footage of him doing some pretty tricky climbing (but not actually doing anything). Pathological liar. Massive massive ego. I don't think he did Action Direct.

Mumra

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This thread is amazing. Claims, friends backing up claims and half naked boys on broken Font roofs.
It's amazing how Simpson gets it in the neck (not that I'm defending him), yet this all started out with him calling Heason out! Ben escaped a bullit there  :popcorn:

rodma

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Righty oh

I was really meaning a photo of him on it, but that suffices to at least show what holds you were on about.

When I was trying gourmandise (raccouri), I used those undercuts ( bumping along them) for my left hand to help turn my hips square on to the rock. On stronger attempts on gourmandise (raccouri) I even dropped fully onto those cos I had decided that was the way ( could go from the lip on gourmandise into those undercuts then up the arete, but didn't manage it from the start.

The rh mono on fatman is immediately left of the start holds on gourmandise raccouri ( it's the one that American used on the dernier fleau video on bleau. Info ) and the lh start hold is no longer attached to the rock.

I can certainly understand the confusion and whilst pulling off the deck on those high underlings in the photo would be difficult, it's not 8b difficult.

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Moo

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So can we conclude that Ellis thought he had done Fatman, but turns out that due to the vague description he started in the wrong place?

Mumra

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Bingo! We have a winner  :chair:

rodma

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So can we conclude that Ellis thought he had done Fatman, but turns out that due to the vague description he started in the wrong place?
No

Nothing to do with vague description, there is still a mono on the roof, just much further back.


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Moo

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So we can conclude that Ellis started in the wrong place?

tomtom

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So we can conclude that Ellis started in the wrong place?

That depends if it's on the video.... ;)

tommytwotone

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I'm sure this will all be cleared up when his bike riding Spanish spotter surfaces with a blurry phone camera video footage.




Fiend

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Squatch: Reading about the "chossy Peak lime / Parisella's eliminate" style bollox and rules that rodma was describing on the other thread, maybe the simplest explanation is EBB climbed something about 8B somewhere in that roof and assumed it was Fatman as he's used to the clear outstanding lines that Devonian limestone bouldering is world-renowned for, and didn't know about the Fatman issues / variants etc...
Called it...

rodma

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No
He climbed the very end of an 8b, which would ( if you had to grade it) would possibly be around the 7c mark

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