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more finger pain (Read 3467 times)

unclesomebody

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more finger pain
August 10, 2004, 12:03:15 am
So, i just noticed a rather new pain in my fingers... when i try to hyper extend them (if that is the correct term) I am getting a sharp pain in 2cnd joint, on the sides and the top of my middle finger.  By hyper extend i mean when you stretch your hand out and then you kind of raise your fingertips and lower your joints...  :roll:  I hope you know what i mean...

Anyway, I just wanted to find out if anyone knew why I had this pain.  What does it mean and how can I prevent it?  Cheers ladies.

a dense loner

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#1 more finger pain
August 10, 2004, 12:30:08 am
it does mean you're spending too much time in the school. my middle fingers both hurt on the sides when i was climbing loads, cos i din't stop at the warning signs it's taken me a few months to get back but still can't crimp to my own low standards. i was burnt off recently in what could only be described as a freak occurance. if you're training for the states i would tape said fingers above n below the knuckle, n maybe drop the schedule a bit for the next few weeks. have a week or two off before you go, you WILL feel better for it :wink:

Fingers of a Martyr

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#2 more finger pain
August 10, 2004, 12:45:17 am
i've got an odd finger 'inujry' as well. when i try to hyper extend my fingers the second joint on my ring finger kind of goes to far and it feels like its displacing itself. there's no pain and it certainly hasn't effected my climbing i only noticed a month or so back so maybe its been like that all my life and i've never noticed. any ideas anyone?

unclesomebody

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#3 more finger pain
August 10, 2004, 10:05:03 am
I think you're probably right dense.  It's definitely from climbing too much, but I wondered if anyone knew of a way to ease the trauma.  Are certain types of holds or finger positions bad?  What causes this kind of pain?  

It's hard to not go to the school when I so super psyched for the states and I still believe I can go from being weak to super strong in the next 3 weeks!   :lol:  I'm not climbing today I don't think, so that will give it time to rest, but I do need to train loads if I'm ever going to get up anything in the states... I'm going to look like a punter compared to the rest of the boys on the trip, and we can't be having that!!!

a dense loner

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#4 more finger pain
August 10, 2004, 12:23:08 pm
Quote
I'm not climbing today I don't think, so that will give it time to rest,


yeah, wot a good rest nice one. it'll prob have recovered for 2mos then  :weirdo:
seriously i would go easy on the training, if you have at least a week off before going you will feel stronger n fresher, n more psyched. trust a wise old man whose been in the position. no good being uber-psyched n having two fingers that won't let you bear down on razor-sharp granite crystals. if you don't go easy you will drop a few grades out of pain tolerance n just wishin what might have been.
with my injury, same as what yours sounds like, i found it aggravated by weird holds ie where the fingers were splayed round a hold. do some weights for a week n some stomach, no good being keen as mustard when beef isn't on the menu.  :wink:

saltbeef

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#5 more finger pain
August 11, 2004, 01:07:34 pm
yeah man listen to dense, i reckon it probs takes 3 weeks for a finger tendon to heal (complete rest) then it'll still be weak, so you have to build it up to strength (ie taking it easy). just cos your fingers sore doesn't mean you can't  do other stuff, I did 3 weeks of weights when i injured my finger around sept  last year and i think iwas stronger when i started again. (core exercises....)

Fiend

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#6 more finger pain
August 11, 2004, 08:36:32 pm
Okay next esoteric non-A2 pulley injury. A friend has this one and would appreciate any advice:

He's got pain around the base of his big finger i.e. where it joins the hand. The pain occurs when wriggling his finger around and when clenching a fist. It also occurs  when his finger is almost fully extended and he tries to pull on something with a very long open hand grip, particularly if the other fingers aren't used.

It does NOT hurt when crimping nor when pulling hard in other positions, and he has no pain around any of the tendons / pulleys, only in the join at the base of the finger.

He thinks it might be from bashing his hand (or bashing the bishop hur hur hur)....if anyone has any ideas that would be appreciated.

dave

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#7 more finger pain
August 12, 2004, 12:03:17 am
Quote from: "Fiend"
A friend has this one and would appreciate any advice:


ahh that old one..a friend whos in prison so can't post himself right.? hmmm,

Fiend

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#8 more finger pain
August 12, 2004, 10:36:15 am
A friend who doesn't have an internet connection you assnugget.

MY finger injuries are a lot more simple, standard A2 bollox  :P

 

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