[iain]

Also really enjoyed the women's football, just saying...

Wouldn't normally watch football but me too.

@Kelvin and TomTom - I normally get hayfever badly, on antihistamines from April till August last year, but like TomTom mine's been better this year, only had the odd fully clogged day and even appreciating this summer thing. Have you tried different meds Kelvin? Cetrizine's my go to, nothing else works as well, but like you feel slow if I have to take it all the time.


STG: Dominatrix (not got time till autumn), Body Machine direct
S/MTG: The Prow (maybe full), Stone the Loach and E4/5 lime trad.
MTG: Dolomites in September

M: Aerocap, 3x10min, not 15, not 20, just 10.
T: Cornice. 2nd session on Unleashing the Wild Physique. Got 'crux' sorted but I can either do 1 move which really hurts my joints, or 6 moves which don't  . Still find the top nails though.

W: Physical working day.

T: Cornice for the day. Started with a mini rant about Peak sandbags because I couldn't get past the first bolt on Clarion Call to supposedly warm up. Effectively fifth day on and tired so rather than Wild Physique got on Cosmopolitan. Took a while to work out the crux then had time/energy for a single redpoint. Proper fight with lots of grunting and desperate resting saw me finally grab the finishing holds. Except, the feet are all edges/smears that need good body control to use and my legs were doing their best wild Elvis. Clipping just wasn't going to happen ...

F: Rest, family visit

S: Rest, family visit

S: Family leave, late afternoon to the Works. High intensity with long rests, and finish with 10x40sec Ancap reps with 80sec rest. I couldn't complete the same exercise in March. Good progress.

Felt like A good training week, 2 more weeks before a non-climbing holiday. Aiming for good intensity/volume with the odd rock day.

Edit: memory like a sieve,

[cha1n]

Rest week from training this week and I definitely needed it. Had big plans to climb outside a lot this week but I've been knackered.

M - Rest
T - Powerplant at Cheedale Cornice, got on it and actually pulled on this time instead of instantly stripping it! Didn't do overly well but got all the moves apart from the crux itself and most of the sections I got were pretty poor, too powerful sequences to actually work on RP.
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - AeroPow (foot on campus) and core
S - Return to Powerplant. After waiting 4 hours to get on it (see other thread in STS for details), I finally got on and EVENTUALLY did all the moves. I have a fairly faffy sequence for the crux but it works consistently and I did it twice in poor conditions (RH crimp on bulge was greasing out every go, skin was sweating and falling apart) and at the end of the session when I was really tired. Have also got a fairly good sequence for the headwall now with only the last couple of moves needing proper refining. I feel that that the pre-crux section is maybe a bit over powerful but hard to know until I get on RP. Psyched for it now.
S - Feeling wrecked from Sat and could barely move all day. Eventually got up to make a pizza, then watched more stuff on laptop.

So a quiet week but an important one with all the moves done on an 8a with nearly 6 weeks to go until the 8a before 30 deadline. This might actually happen!

Have arranged to go to try Powerplant again this evening but sort of regretting that now as I didn't sleep much last night, skin is poor and hayfever is insanely bad today.

[cheque]

Sounds like the heat fucked everyone up this week!

Hurry up hayfever and depart - 5 or 6 antihistamines a day and this heat meant I've been overly lethargic.

I get bad hayfever - and this time of year is a total lottery for me... I take both Beconase (nasal spray) and Citrizide Hydrochloride (used to be branded Zirtek) which largely keeps it under control. But even if I'm not sneezing I feel wacked out. It's as if I'm suffering the after effects of the symptoms without the symptoms of that makes sense.

Have either of you tried Loratadine? I get the drowsy reaction you describe with Citrizine but nothing with Loratadine.

STG- 7a or (ideally) above on lime before September 18th.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

M- Rest.

Tu- Pleasley Vale with mats and mates. Great fun. Did some easier up problems I hadn't done before and some harder ones I hadn't done for ages and felt impossible two months previously.

W- Too bloody hot.

Th- Pleasley Vale solo. Was meant to be going to Rubicon to get on a rope but the storms forecast put us off. Did the long traverse 5 times, which is a personal best- I couldn''t do this once in May.

F- Rest.

Sa- Swimming in the sea (the first time I have ever done this in Britain without shivering with cold after getting out!) and crazy golf at Great Yarmouth. 

Su- Rest.

[cha1n]

Hmm, I'm now starting to wonder if I was at the Cornice Thurs but I don't think I was. I'm sure I met Iain off of here at the cornice one of the days?! Is that you Iain? I was belaying Dave Redpath on R'n'P. What day was that?! I thought it was Tues.

[tomtom]

Sounds like the heat fucked everyone up this week!

Hurry up hayfever and depart - 5 or 6 antihistamines a day and this heat meant I've been overly lethargic.

I get bad hayfever - and this time of year is a total lottery for me... I take both Beconase (nasal spray) and Citrizide Hydrochloride (used to be branded Zirtek) which largely keeps it under control. But even if I'm not sneezing I feel wacked out. It's as if I'm suffering the after effects of the symptoms without the symptoms of that makes sense.

Have either of you tried Loratadine? I get the drowsy reaction you describe with Citrizine but nothing with Loratadine.

Does nothing for me...

Citrizine doesnt make me feel drowsy as such - but after a couple of weeks I feel spaced out from time to time - and its only when I stop taking it I notice how it alters my mood..

[cheque]

Have arranged to go to try Powerplant again this evening but sort of regretting that now as I didn't sleep much last night, skin is poor and hayfever is insanely bad today.

With me I believe!  Let me know how you feel later. I can sort something else out of you're not up for it.

[fatneck]

Mon - Pilates at work - piss. Nice evening fishing session curtailed by midges.
Tue - Weights session - diary shows I ramped up the reps but not the weight, feel like I'm putting a bit too much muscle on. DL, curls, rows, flies and new PB on the C&J!
Wed - Busy work day - nowt
Thur - Pilates at lunch - abs session = burning abs! - all good
Fri - cardio session at lunch - bike (fucking hate it and binned off after 5km) then 10 minutes on the rower and finished off with press ups alternated by "resting" in plank and DD - 10 minutes. Hangar evening session with the wife and her mates. First time indoors in a month - I was shit...
Sat - day out at Go Ape with some scallies - not too badly behaved kids and really good fun! Then went to Bulkeley Hill Crag with the missus. Ticked everything, tried out new midge repellent (seems to work), did a "new" problem. Great situation. Probably wouldn't go back unless in the area.
Sun - ended up spending two hours falling asleep in the waiting area of the local drop in clinic (nothing serious) did nothing else...

Good to do some actual climbing. Pilates is getting easier, could probably fit in/manage three sessions a week. Putting on the muscle so looking to up the reps with DL, flies, curls etc but probably keep trying to up the C&J best.

[iain]

Hmm, I'm now starting to wonder if I was at the Cornice Thurs but I don't think I was. I'm sure I met Iain off of here at the cornice one of the days?! Is that you Iain? I was belaying Dave Redpath on R'n'P. What day was that?! I thought it was Tues.

It was Tuesday and I'm being a muppet, just edited my post. Nice to meet you 

[kelvin]

Cheque - used loratidine for years and then it just stopped working. Been in citrizine for the last 7 or so and it works good enough to enable me to live a fairly normal life.

*spelling may be atrocious

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[SA Chris]

As predicted a bad week

M - some weights and core
T - nothing - worked all evening
W - Outdoor bouldering. In spite of drizzle in afternoon and high humidtiy we took a punt and had a fairly good session. Left house at 6 and showed a mate a scenic tour of new stuff along the coast. Repeated a load of stuff I've done before, plus a few new things. Finished off trying to repeat an old problem that a hold snapped off, but sharp holds and thin skin meant defeat.
T - nothing
F - Some weights
S - nothing, weather shite
S - very little

Weight 13st 4 1/4

elbow actually feels good.

[cha1n]

It was Tuesday and I'm being a muppet, just edited my post. Nice to meet you 

Hello Glad to know I'm not going mad, I remember that I wanted to go Thurs as the conditions looked so good but couldn't find a partner!

With me I believe!  Let me know how you feel later. I can sort something else out of you're not up for it.

Aha, hi Mike I knew who you were in respect of the film Stonnis but didn't know you posted on this thread! Am thinking that I'd rather leave it for later in the week if you're keen for that? I am feeling slightly less bad now but the weather does seem poor. I noticed that whilst the cornice seems to survive the bad weather, the conditions are still crap if it's raining/been raining.

[nai]

I was belaying Dave Redpath on R'n'P?

Were you there with Dave on Saturday?  Did he do it?

I belayed him on it on Friday, was quite amazed when after linking from about 4 moves in he immediately stripped it and said he'd rest til Saturday.

[rodma]

M - weights, campussing and beastmakering
T - slouch
W - Veg
TH - see monday
F - Wine
S - DIY
S - Wall session: actually feel strongish, but shit; can't read problems anymore, but haven't lost the ability to try really hard for the flash attempt (or post-dab attempt)

[cha1n]

Yeh, I belayed him on Sat but unfortunately he didn't do it. He got through the roof though and fell off traversing the first set of undercuts above the lip. He's refined the beta now and I'm sure he'll do it this week if the conditions hold out.

He's having issues with his elbows atm which gives him grief on undercuts (not the best choice of route in that respect), so think he wanted to have a decent amount of rest. Think he's trying it today with Haydn. Fingers crossed.

[nai]

Yeah he mentioned his elbows, hope he gets it done.

[JackAus]

STG: More V7s. Sub 75kg.
MTG: V8. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.

M: Rest
T: St Leonards. New stuff up to V5/6. Fingerboard session after. 1-4-7 for the first time ever. On jugs, but still pleased with that!
W: St Leonards. Finished off some things from yesterday. Short fingerboard session, abit of a campus and did a bunch of good front levers.
T: St Peters. Probs up to around V6/7. Made up horrible moves. Had a quick campus after.
F: Rest
S: Alfords Point. Helping a friend try Stringybark Massacre V7. She got pretty close after coming off the top out last week. Didn't get it today but I did it first go and also did a couple laps on Love Gun Stand Start also V7. I then started working the moves to the sit of Love Gun which gets V10. Managed all the moves but the crux for me is the 2nd move which I only stuck once in isolation. Couldn't link into it at all. It's a good prob that I wouldn't mind working on.
S: Alfords Point. Helping a different mate on Stringybark. He's also fairly close but also didn't get it today. I did more laps on Love Gun Stand and tried the sit some more. Couldn't stick the crux at all. So tried Strung Out V8 instead. Its a link up of Stringybark Massacre into the finish of Love Gun. Fucking long (29 hand moves) and hard for V8 (V7 into V7). Fell off the last slap for the jug after the crux press... Then the subsequent attempts, I came off the press... Just didn't have the juice. Far too long but felt very feasible.

Press move on Love Gun. The stand start starts where my right hand is.

[gme]

Mon- rest
Tues- bouldering in works. So hot but did 30 ish problems up to 6c.
Wed- Foot on Campus 8 x 1min with 1 min rest. Failed on 7th rep in second set but as much to do with the heat and my skin as to being pumped. Was supposed to do three sets but couldnt face it.
Thurs- Rings, pull ups etc in works. Good 45 min session.
Fri- rest
Sat- Bowden easy bouldering. Crag didnt dry until 2pm and then in full sun. No other options though.
Sun- Hungover.

Was hoping for a better week but i really struggle with the heat and it was definitely hot. Still got improvement on the foot on campus. I slowed down my climbing as recommended on here but to be fair that seemed to make it much easier and i got less pumped so i am still not convinced. I should have done another set but mentally just couldnt face it due to the heat.
I was also trying to not drink but how could you not have a beer in this weather. Pissed Thursday due to Patta stopping at mine and sat night was a camping get together with t NE lads i started climbing with so was very messy.

[Ally Smith]

used loratidine for years and then it just stopped working. Been in citrizine for the last 7 or so and it works good enough to enable me to live a fairly normal life.

If Clarityn/loratadine "just stopped working" it might have "just started working again" - why don't you try it again?

i also suggest you stop OD'ing on one type of anti-histimine; try a combination of anti-histimines instead of just taking more of the same e.g. Cetrizine +  Loratadine?

Worth checking exactly which version of Loratadine you were taking - the original went off patent in 2002 and generic versions became available (i.e. not branded "Clarityn")

Since then "Neo Clarityn" (desloratadine) has become available, which is the active metabolite of loratadine. This could work for you still?

Normal caveats apply - i'm an industrial chemist, not a high street pharmacist!

[cha1n]

Get to the doctors and get on fexofenadine hydrochloride (Telfast). I'm on the max dose (180mg) and I wouldn't be able to function as a normal(ish) human being without it.

[Sasquatch]

2 weeks due to biking trip to Whitehorse, CA

Week 1
M- Test boulder session to see how shoulder was doing.  Seemed OK, flashed all new stuff in gym.
T-nothing
W-Short campus session-not great, but was not motivated and didn't expect much.
Th-14.5 Hours driving
F-Nothing (wife biking)
S-Nothing (wife biking)
S-7 hr mtn ride, 31 miles and 5500 vertical feet.  did not bring enough food, so was drained by the end.  Fun though.

Week 2
M-Short riding day in Carcross with a couple of car shuttle runs (weather kept the ladies from a longer ride). 
T- Short riding day in Carcross Ladies did their loop this day.
W-3 hr AM mtn ride, then 13.5 hr drive.
Th- family stuff
F- family stuff
S- family stuff
S-Big unexpected day outside.  sunny and hot   did 20 new problems - with 4 new FA's for the day - v7, v8, v9, and v10.   

Super excited for the coming week.  If the weather holds, i'll be getting two solid days out.

[kelvin]

Normal caveats apply - i'm an industrial chemist, not a high street pharmacist!

Cheers Ally - just picked up some loratadine and then saw your post, so I'll have a go at having one of each and see how it goes.

[Schnell]

STG: fix fingers (slow but steady progress on all counts here)
MTG: 7C this winter/bouldering season

M: short indoor bouldering session and then physio/climbing coach assessment which was really interesting.  Leaving aside finger injuries and rehab, the conclusion was that I have very weak deep core stabilisers, transverse abdominis and pelvic floor muscles and improving though still not great scapular stability. so lots to work on from an injury prevention point of view.
T. shoulder stability/rest after three days on
W. gym for first time in about 10 years. established a sort of baseline for future training, I'm hoping to get to the gym once a week from now on. I've apparently not got the proto-typical climbers weaknesses, ie my bench and overhead presses are pretty good but my deadlifting is not.
T. still destroyed from the gym but went to the wall anyway and just didn't try very hard or anything tweaky.
F.
S. a bit of trad, did two new E2s os at a nice venue plus some easier stuff. Lots of faffing and unnecessary fussing over gear meant these felt a lot more difficult than they should. This year it's taking me ages to get my head in order for trad climbing for some reason.
S. outdoor bouldering, not much done except one 6C which I'd failed on repeatedly years ago. nice feeling to get it done despite not climbing terribly well on the day.

Quite a good week, I've almost been doing proper climbing for the first time in a while. The major injury concern, a2, is getting a lot better and can now take moderate static loads. It was interesting getting the assessment done and made me aware of problems/muscles I was totally unaware of. However I'm still uncertain on how to make sure I'm properly engaging my core when climbing. I can do it on easy stuff when I've time to consciously think through the moves but as soon as I start to try hard that all goes out the window. Not to say I don't know the answer in some sense, ie practice and patience.

[shurt]

STG: get some good probs done in the Peak
MTG: as before 
LTG:see above

Not good training week. No climbing indoors or out. No fingerboarding. A write off. No heavy drinking to fill this empty hole which was good. Off to the Peak later this week avec famille so am looking forward to that and hopefully will get some milage in. Am about 20 mins from Robin Hoods or Roaches - I like them both.
Whats Rowtor Rocks like anyone? Never been but looks ok if not a mantle fest in the guidebook.

[HazelR]

used loratidine for years and then it just stopped working. Been in citrizine for the last 7 or so and it works good enough to enable me to live a fairly normal life.

If Clarityn/loratadine "just stopped working" it might have "just started working again" - why don't you try it again?

Picked up some loratadine a few weeks ago in desperation having been unable to find Beconase in the available shops. I'd stopped taking it years ago as it didn't work anymore - it now seems to work just fine again. Cetirizine knocks me sideways, not really an option.   

Not a lot to report the last two weeks, I'm not sure I've actually made it to the wall. If I did I didn't do much. Too hot, too much work, too tired, etc.
 
I've had two days at Wallsend on Realm of Chaos (nice fight AJM, good job), getting some decent links, now waiting for good enough conditions to string it together.

One day at the Cuttings on Hall of Mirrors. Sometimes I can get stood up on the jug... usually I can't, and I just can't figure out what's different 

I think it's just going to be a case of getting through the next couple of weeks and fitting in what I can.

[andy popp]

M - land from US flight. Sorting out shit
T - long day in work
W - there's always work to do but this day was nominally mine to do with as I wished. But did nothing climbing related, just stinking hot and it felt like anything would have been futile
T - sorting out shit, train to Exeter in the afternoon
F - conference
S - conference, train home in the eve
S - knackered, don't bother doing anything

So that's two straight weeks with no climbing/training - and plenty of socialising. Life has simply got in the way, albeit in very good ways. Could I have done at least something this week? Probably (not probably, but 'yes'), but I doubt it would have made much difference. Obviously I could/should have written 'nothing' but it seemed worth thinking about the balance between life and climbing. The one upside is that I never really put any weight on.

And now its raining ...