[petejh]

Source?

[rodma]

Source?

He said "Apparantly" isn't that enough evidence for you? perhaps if he'd written "it's a well known fact that" you'd be happier with the validity of the statement 

[andy_e]

"They say that ... "

[TheTwig]

Blah. I'll retract that, as I can't find whatever article I dug that snippet out of. Google chrome bookmarks let me down once again

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Blah. I'll retract that, as I can't find whatever article I dug that snippet out of. Google chrome bookmarks let me down once again

Why? You're just quoting hearsay. No problem. Usual caveats apply..

This is hardly peer review 

[Oldmanmatt]

Blah. I'll retract that, as I can't find whatever article I dug that snippet out of. Google chrome bookmarks let me down once again

Why? You're just quoting hearsay. No problem. Usual caveats apply..

This is hardly peer review 

What?!?!

I'll have you know Professor L. A. Dense is the worlds leading authority on Omni Scientia... And we are all his acolytes!


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[a dense loner]

 
I prefer to look at it like dense just knows quite a few people who use creatine as a supplement for climbing

[Oldmanmatt]

I prefer to look at it like dense just knows quite a few people who use creatine as a supplement for climbing

I forgot to put the [emoji12][emoji317] etc stuff, to indicate the extreme insertion of tongue into cheek, required when reading my post...


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[petejh]

Just got on board the creatine train. Apparantly something like 80% of competitors in the 2012 olympics were using it during training 

Radio 4 mentioned an old stat today: that 37% of Britain's Olympic 2012 medal winners were public school educated; and that public schools educate 7% of the overall population. They must put creatine on the cornflakes at Eton!

[Oldmanmatt]

We get groups of private school and Grammar school kids at the Bunker. Because their teachers organise it and parents will pay for it (not huge amounts).
We don't get groups from state schools.
There must be plenty of kids that would enjoy it and teachers that would organise it, in state schools too. I just imagine the students are drowned out by their peers and teachers just drowned by their workload. PE will consist of that which will entertain the majority the longest, not inspire the the nascent Olympian.

I suspect the ratios are explained more by class size and teacher time-to-pupil, than by lack of opportunity. Plenty of sports clubs for the interested, not enough interest generation input.


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[mrjonathanr]

Teachers' workload may well be a factor as well as cost depending on school context. LA guidance/risk assessments can be a hindrance too.

[2 Tru]

I found this interesting and useful reading. There is a overview of creatine and other supplements on page 37 and plenty of other useful info on sports nutrition.

It is sponsored by coca cola though and it even recommends cola as a good source of caffeine in one section.

http://www.olympic.org/documents/reports/en/en_report_833.pdf

[creedence]

Just got on board the creatine train. Apparantly something like 80% of competitors in the 2012 olympics were using it during training 

Radio 4 mentioned an old stat today: that 37% of Britain's Olympic 2012 medal winners were public school educated; and that public schools educate 7% of the overall population. They must put creatine on the cornflakes at Eton!

I thought it went on the biscuits...

[Rocksteady]

Just got on board the creatine train. Apparantly something like 80% of competitors in the 2012 olympics were using it during training 

Radio 4 mentioned an old stat today: that 37% of Britain's Olympic 2012 medal winners were public school educated; and that public schools educate 7% of the overall population. They must put creatine on the cornflakes at Eton!

Isn't that just because one of the sports we did well at is rowing, and it's also a sport where there are a bunch of people who all win medals together?

[petejh]

Where's a tame statistician when you need one?

I suppose to know if the 37% privately educated figure is indicative of social inequality or just a quirk due to a factor like 4-person rowing teams, you'd need to know the total number of UK olympic atheletes (medal-winners and non medal-winners) and what the breakdown is for state and private education.

[mrjonathanr]

Radio 4 mentioned an old stat today: that 37% of Britain's Olympic 2012 medal winners were public school educated; and that public schools educate 7% of the overall population.

Sport's 7:84?

[Three Nine]

I've just finished a two month experiment with creatine monohydrate. I took 5g on training days. The only effects ive noticed have been:

1. getting really pumped when I do more than 4 moves in a row
2. weight gain
3. pissing more

Not sure any amount of science or anecdotes about olympic athletes is going to convince me to persist. Anyone want some creatine monohydrate?

[Ti_pin_man]

I promised a reply.

I loved the debate the question raised.. cheers all. That was one of the reasons I posted up originally, to get the feedback 

I took 3-4mg of creatine for 4/5 weeks. The intension was to take it through a strength/power phase.
I did indeed feel bloated.  I did put a couple of kilo's on.  I did feel mild cramps when climbing.  My grade remained static. None of this was unexpected.  It has taken a few weeks to drop the weight and my grade remains the same. I also expected this. 

Did I see, or have I seen any improvements.  Nope.  In fact it left me feeling rubbish and I stopped taking it before I finished the phase.  A couple of times I climbed I subjectively felt stronger, just a bit more oomph to finish a climb but I cant scientifically say it was the creatine, I might have just been having a good day, maybe I ate better that day, dunno.  But this certainly didn't happen enough to make me attribute it to creatine.  On climb days I also felt, as others have said, like my arms were starting to get cramps, not actual cramps but soreness, sort of early pump.  It didn't stop the climbing but was noticeable and it basically felt weird but not painful. The main reason I stopped early was because how bloated it made me feel.  It was subtle but always present and I just didn't feel comfortable.  So I quit.  In Dragon style: I'm out.

I claim no science behind either my training approach or the taking of creatine.  I read a bit and thought 'yeah, why not give it a go'. 

Now back to the normal !

Anybody want a cheap tub of creatine?   


 

[Lund]

I too have been experimenting on my own body.

During June I took 5g after training, so with the schedule as it is now, 3-4 times a week.  During that time I crushed font 7c (indoor training problem), but probably would have anyway.  I also stayed resolutely at 65.4kg.

This month I have had a bit of a poor start due to other commitments, but have been trying to eat 5g a day.  Weight has stayed fixed at 65.4kg.  Done all the moves on another 7c - but the link is the living end.  Not yet attributing this to anything.  The experiment continues.

With the lack of changes, I wonder if I'm on the placebo.  Except, of course, that would imply that there is any SCIENCE whatsoever to this anecdotal bullshit.  :-)

[petejh]

I've been taking 4 anecdotal grams per day for the last 6 weeks during my training block. Just stopped 2 days ago prior to starting route'ing. Weight dropped to 64Kg with some fairly minor dieting assistance over the last 2 weeks. Boshed out personal bests on my fb routine during strength phase, and should have done 1-4-7 even with sleep deprivation during my very short power phase but didn't, but I did do 1-4-7 last training block anyway (also whilst taking creatine).

I get pumped chalking up prior to setting off on routes. Maybe I should stop the creatine earlier.

39 I'll swap you a diet plan for your creatine

[Three Nine]

Sorry its gone already. Looks like a corpulent future awaits me...

[Nibile]

@petej,
how do you factor the weight loss into your fb progresses? Just curious.
Losing weight while taking creatine is well strange.

[petejh]

Hi Nibs, I started my recent training block at 67Kg. It's a shortened phase of training due to trying to squeeze in a good 6 weeks on the Diamond.

Base phase (2 weeks): ate anything I wanted and climbed mileage. Took creatine@ 4g per day
Weight 67Kg.

Strength phase (2 weeks): fingerboarded and ate anything I wanted. Took creatine @ 4g per day. Weight 67 Kg.

Power phase (2 weeks): campussed and dieted for 14 days @ 1600 calories per day. Took creatine @ 4g per day.
Weight 67Kg at start of phase, 64/65Kg at end of phase.

Power endurance and routing phase (6 weeks, I'm 1 week in): Stopped dieting, stopped creatine. Foot-on campussing, route intervals and redpointing.
Weight 64/5 Kg.

So I didn't have to think much about flucuating weight during the fingerboard phase. And I log all my workouts with my weight at the time. Next training phase, if I'm 68 or 66 Kg I'll be aware of how that affects whatever weight I'm adding or taking off. As long as everythings' logged it's easy to look back and compare.


ps. Yesterday I sent my first proj - sure-fire contender for one of the best 8as in the country, a 35 metre pure endurance climb without any hard moves, very unusual style for the UK and my total anti-style. woop.. 

[Three Nine]

If you can 'eat what you want' for two weeks and not gain weight, you either have very meagre wants or are very very genetically lucky!

[andy_e]

As an anecdotal countermeasure, I don't take creatine and I get pumped after two moves.