[Pako]

STG - Do 2 one arms on left arm, one arm with 5kg on right arm
MTG - Do some more v7s outdoors, some v8s. 1-5-9.
LTG - v10 by the end of the year




Great week strengthwise but sort of scared that my climbing has gone to shit.

M - Rest day, campussed around on the board for a while
T - Tried out a new big session plan, with board for 90 minutes, some ring power stuff, in which I very nearly did a full iron cross which is nice, then did my one arm fingerboard stuff with a pulley and lots of pocket stuff on middle, front and back 2.
W - Great session on the board
T - Finally did a bloody one arm. Tried it from straight earlier, got to halfway which I never did before. Tried it later and did it easily, couldn't believe it, tried it again and did 2 of them in a row. Perhaps I have had the strength for it for a while but never tried it properly? This is all in the neutral grip on my right arm. Can't do one yet with left arm, got close with front on right arm.
F - Did some more one arms, rest day
S - Went to the gym, did some good stuff
Flashed a v4 and v5. Got close to a new v7. Didn't feel very good at climbing today, one arms felt much easier.
Did some front on one arms on right arm, felt good.
Did a neutral one arm on the left arm
1-5-8 on both sides, felt pretty easy. Hopefully working on one arming on the beastmaker will make 1-5-9 happen
One arm campus bump on right arm from middle jug on beastmaker to the 20 degree slopers.
Hung on the 45 degree slopers on the BM for about 15 seconds, pullup to them in a controlled manner but can't do the negative motion. Would be nice if my home beastmaker didn't bend so much to make my 45s unusable, they are a good bit of fun.
S - Rest day

Overall some good power stuff, but will work on my climbing more so that I could actually start sending some problems. With this strength some higher grades would be good.

[abarro81]

With this strength some higher grades would be good.

You don't say. My advice would be to do no footless stuff until you're climbing about 6 grades harder, since you're vastly over strong for 8A let alone 7B (I'm presuming we're not talking about campusing on jugs here). There's certainly no point in doing 1 arm work since it will in no way be a limiting factor in doing stuff.

[Pako]

Yeah, the plan now is to stop doing strength work and just climb on the board and try to do hard problems.

[Dolly]

A knackering week. I worked late every night apart from Wednesday but managed to train enough to keep ticking over.

M Foundry lunchtime. Should have left it really cos I was knackered
T Kettlebells in the morning before work. No pants required
W Foundry lunchtime. Opened my account on the new level 3s. Good session. Pilates in the evening
T
F Foundry lunchtime. Another good short hard session
S
S Anston. Wanted to play on Alpha but it was very wet at the start. Did Colt which I hadn't done before then The un-named at Woody's. I felt a bit un-nerved climbing there, as if Gollum was going to come out from the cave at the back and attack me.

[cheque]

STG- Finish film without becoming irretrievably crap at climbing.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- One armer obviously.

M- Pullups. Did some last Monday as well but forget to mention on here. Hopefully you can all forgive me.

T- Rest.

W- Rest.

T- Pleasley Vale. Four attempts at the long traverse, failing a few moves from the end each go- imrovement from last week but not as good as last July. That might not sound remarkable, but this was a really, really good session- for the first time in a very long time I've felt like I was really comfortable trying hard and like I was working on every aspect of my climbing and mentally open to everything I was doing. 

F- Rest.

S- Nothing. In Cheltenham of all places.

S- Wandering around National Trust places in Gloucestershire.

M- AM- Haresfield Beacon. It's a tiny chossy limestone crag near Stroud. At first I thought it was the worst crag I'd ever been to but then I got stuck into the traverse and quote enjoyed it- interesting fossily/ flowstoney rock on the lower third and some nice holds. Did the traverse second go. PM- Castle Rock, Cleeve Hill. At first I thought it was the worst crag I'd ever been to and I was absolutely right. Makes Pleasley Vale look like Ceuse.

Good week. Still editing every day (or every day I'm at home at least) so that limits what I can do. Feels great to be training again though. Very psyched to get the film finished and be a proper climber again.

[SA Chris]

At Haresfield; is that the lower traverse by the oak tree? I liked that as well.

[cheque]

At Haresfield; is that the lower traverse by the oak tree? I liked that as well.

No, the upper one- called "the long traverse" in the guidebook, but I made it even longer by traversing the whole upper crag. 

I found the lower traverse just as we were leaving, thought it looked good and was in two minds to stay for it but decided to go and check out Cleeve Hill. 

[SA Chris]

In the guidebook?? Things have changed!

lower one is quite fun, more working technique and sequence rather than fitness or fingers. I went to check out Cleeve Hill once in the rain, and never went back.

[cheque]

In the guidebook?? Things have changed!

  The Cotswolds is squeezed in the back of the current Symonds Yat guide- other crags apart from the two I visited are mentioned but they seem even worse. You don't need a guide obviously but I love reading them so I'll take any excuse to buy one to a new area!

[the_dom]

Another less than ideal week:

Mon: Treadmill intervals - first time in a while. Didn't feel too bad.
Tues: AM Hangboard - one arms, max hangs and repeaters. Solid session.
Wed: Hangboard - CWP programme. Felt pretty tired.
Thurs: 40 min trail run.
Fri: An hour or so on the Moon board followed by some one arm max hangs
Sat: Two surfs.
Sun: Bouldering. LInked 7C+ project into overlapping halves. Decent day.

Need to climb more. Damn actually having to work.

[jwi]

STG:
Hanging 6mm edge for 10s on my adjustable fingerboard.
Getting back to 20+ pullups.
MTG:
Flashing a few non-vertical white boulderprobs in the gym.
Onsight one 8a or five 7c+'s this year. Preferably both.
Do something fairly challenging on Naranjo in August. /Todra in September. Wherever we decide to go
LTG: TBD

Hard week at work, and very little sleep.
Mo:  Rest
Tue: Fingerboard and some pullups
Wed: Rest. Tried to go to the gym, but slept only three hours the night before, so I went to bed early instead.
Thur: Bouldering in the gym. Some campusing (max distance).
Fri: Rest
Sat: Climbing outside. 7a, 8a hd, 8a rp, 7b
Sun: Climbing outside. 7a, 7b, figured out the moves but not all clips on an 8b (ten hard moves then 7b+ to the top) no links to speak of.

Progression:
Weight: 70-71 kg
≈6.5mm edge crimped 10s (hard to measure exactly, so may not have been the best goal)
flash of white's in the gym: 0
8a's onsighted this year: 0/1
7c+'s onsighted this year: 2/5

[shurt]

Bit of a late post here... Included bank hol Monday.

STG: finish Still Waters at Cheddar (can do all moves as of 2 wks ago) or any 7b for that matter
MTG: finish Bullworker at Brean Down after falling off top move 3 times in December
LTG: E6, 8a route, surpass previous best of V7/7a+ bouldering

M - skin still trashed from Dartmoor
T -
W -3 sets on fingerboard, first one slightly reduced. Still using increased stamina sets within each. Felt hard work.
T - rested as arranged to go climbing Friday. 
F - partner cancelled which was a bit annoying.
S - 3 sets on fingerboard. felt a bit better.
S - rested as climbing the next day.
M - Went to the Wave at Cheddar. Did 6b+ and 6c to warm up then tried 7a+ I'd been wanting to do. Put clips in, worked out crux then did it pretty easily next go which was really pleasing. No decent 7b's there so got on Insatiable, 7b+ (another longish term aim). Was really surprised with progress, went bolt to bolt putting clips in and got the moves sussed then fell off next go near the top after clipping last bolt before lower off. Rested and tried again but fell off low down feeling toasted.

Not a bad week. Feel like some sort of progress is being made. Would love to be doing 3 lots of fingerboard sets during the week but motivation is a bit low at the moment. Adding into this my little boy is teething really badly (final back tooth) and I am getting a very minimal amount of sleep - Monday night after climbing was literally 2 hrs and the night before climbing 3-4 hrs. God only knows what I'd be with sleep... As Brian Wilson might say (well it was Tony Asher actually but whatever).

[gme]

Mon- Bouldering Alnwick Moonboard- working my way through the 6Cs again. Pretty shit.
Tuesday- School. Working the Purple circuit. Really shit
Wed- rest
Thurs- Luch campus session at works. Evening School again. Ditto tuesday followed by ad hoc rings work. bit better
Fri- rest
Sat- Back Bowden for a few hours in the morning before family duties. Lots of steady mileage. Fun but weak.
Sun- dusted off the road bike and did a hard fought 50km.

Upped the training a bit this week but not very successfully as my finger hurts a fair bit and feels very weak. Campusing didnt hurt it much but still cant crimp. It is however responding to the training well but needs 2 days rest after every session. Confident it will be good in a few weeks. Going to change to climbing day-conditioning day-rest day so my fingers get two days off between sessions.

Struggling to motivate myself i must admit due to the finger so training in a stupid unorganised manner. Major issues with skin as well and presently have 5 big blood blisters on my fingers.

Enjoyed the bike ride but it was hard, legs like lead on the hills.

82 kg but have eaten like a horse all weekend so it may have gone up again. BBQ weather not good for the waistline.