[cjsheps]

Hi all,

Over the years, I've always had bad skin and been prone to splitting my fingers between the first and second joints. They tend to be deep splits and hang around for ages, and I have the beginnings of them a lot of the time while I'm training hard, especially when doing aerocap.

It's pretty inhibiting when trying to do a campus session or similar. Does anyone have any suggestions for stopping the splits?

Pic for reference:



Thanks in advance! (Hope I used the image embedding right)

Edit: Nope. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9E9QR3DlTFIZmRrYmNTOFhtaWM&authuser=0

[abarro81]

Usually happens to me when those joints are too dry

[bendavison]

Hey Chris, I get a similar problem, though they don't normally go through quite as badly as yours sound (the link still didn't work - it said I need permission from you to access it!). I find sanding them thoroughly works, but leaves the skin thin for a while. Pre-emptive taping works too. What chalk do you use? Very dry skin seems to make it worse - so maybe avoid superchalk and moisturise loads (Monkey Fist works great )

[SA Chris]

(Monkey Fist works great )

Sexual activities aside, what chalk do you use?

(too easy)

[cjsheps]

Not super chalk! I'm using the metolius blocks without the drying agent atm. Cheers for the advice Ben and Alex - I hadn't really considered my skin as very dry but I'll give moisturising a go. Sandpaper doesn't seem to get anywhere with the splits (using grade ~100).

[dave]

Sand the dry splits, sand to stop any thick build-up occuring. Use mousturiser.

[tommytwotone]

100% don't use Superchalk - absolutely guaranteed to give me splits.


Also, and I only found this now we've changed to Fairy Platinum, but if you wash up at home make sure you wear rubber gloves. My skin's been terrible since we changed to the more aggressive / better cleaning stuff and now use Marigolds all the time.

[Moo]

Marigolds are a must. I also find if this happens to me the only way to stop it from happening again is to sand it out until it becomes a massive hole rather than letting it try to heal back together.

[petejh]

Suffering similar but cutting just above first joint crease.

Sanding - rough '80' and fine '180', followed by moisturising. I've been using climbskin a few times per day and it seems v.good.

Another +1 for marigolds (and a dishwasher). One downside of eating real food instead of pre-made food is the prep involving washing food and utensils. Done every meal I guess it soon adds up and softens the skin.. at least my skin was way soft when I started projecting recently. Started using marigolds just in the last few weeks and the skin is tougher, but concurrent with climbing more as well.

I tried antihydral in an attempt to toughen the skin, but it's of no use once you have a cut (kills the cells?). It did toughen the tips but then made them peel a week after applying.
Just got some tincture of benzoine compound to give that a try (difficult to find, had to order from the states?). I put it on some minor abrasions today to see how it goes. I think it'll be of most use applied under finger tape to secure the tape in place without resorting to glue.

[Reprobate_Rob]

I get these from time to time. I've found that using a ped-egg or similar curved file for taking dead skin off works well, as the curve allows you to really get into the joint without filing the entire area down. Best done after a shower while the skin is soft, then moisturise lots and repeat the sanding/shaving every few days.
Also seems to be crimping down hard that causes it (along with dry skin), so crimp less, moisturise more

[petejh]

Here's a good tip courtesy of Nike Air too - roll sandpaper tightly around a pen/pencil and tape in place. Good way to get into the crease/joint.

[webbo]

Tincture of benzoine is Friars Balsam in the Uk. Apparently they sell it in Sainsburys, they used to sell it in Boots.
It's used as a decongestant I.e. a couple of drops in hot water in a bowl and stick your head in the steam, so if it does fuck all for skin you can use it for your cold.

[andyd]

Glue it back together. Super glue is your friend. Locktite or whatever it's called(little bottle from the supermarket ).
Super glue was invented for skin wasn't it? I'm amazed that so few people use it.

[tomtom]

Glue it back together. Super glue is your friend. Locktite or whatever it's called(little bottle from the supermarket ).
Super glue was invented for skin wasn't it? I'm amazed that so few people use it.

It's the carcinogenic solvents that tend to put people off... There are however 'medical' forms of superglue that are safe(r).

[andyd]

Really?

[andyd]

I'll answer that for you TT. No. Thanks Google

[richieb]

I get these as well, usually either just above or just below the first joint crease. This is going to turn into a proper moan, apologies for that. The people I climb with are well used to it unfortunately.
I'm constantly managing one or more of these during the bouldering season. I call them tension splits. They often appear with no warning when skin appears to be in good condition generally, no sharp or particularly small or harsh holds involved.
I can be having a steady board session and suddenly one will appear out of the blue and I know I've got weeks ahead of resting, sanding, moisturising, superglue, tape etc.
Just as I am getting one sorted I often get another one on a different finger. I doubt I had a single session outdoors last winter without having at least one of these splits glued and taped up. My actual tips tend to be fine, I can't climb for long enough to get any issues there due to the blood pouring out of one of these splits.

I'm pretty fastidious about sanding, avoid super chalk and have tried a huge variety of moisturisers - climb on, dream cream, cocoa butter, sudocrem, badger balm, burt's bees and the rest. I wear marigolds for washing up. A mate suggested I should also wear them in the shower, or just not bother with the shower. In fact never get your hands wet. 
I tried surgical spirit last year after a tip off from my step dad who is a banjo player. Didn't notice any improvement but maybe I didn't use it for long enough.
I do own some antihydral but always worked on the basis that it is more use for thin skin/ thin tips (with caution) and going anywhere near the joints/creases with it is asking for trouble. 

The upshot is, it is incredibly frustrating and I haven't found an answer yet. I tend to just put it down to bad luck genetically and working at a PC all day.
One thing I could do better with is training the good fingers whilst the bad ones are recovering, two finger hangs, mono's etc
I usually just get pissed off and pack it in.

[webbo]

I get this on my left hand forefinger. However I think I cut this many years ago and I wonder whether it's scar tissue that keeps splitting.
I tape and glue it but I did hear that super glue can actually cause splits due to it drying out the skin.

[tomtom]

I'll answer that for you TT. No. Thanks Google

Or yes (toxic not carcinogenic..)

The United States National Toxicology Program and the United Kingdom Health and Safety Executive have concluded that the use of ethyl cyanoacrylate is safe and that additional study is unnecessary.[19] 2-octyl cyanoacrylate degrades much more slowly due to its longer organic backbone that slows the degradation of the adhesive enough to remain below the threshold of tissue toxicity. Due to the toxicity issues of ethyl cyanoacrylate, the use of 2-octyl cyanoacrylate for sutures is preferred.

[tomtom]

Sorry Andy i seemed to have entered internet pedant mode then..

[chris j]

I get this on my left hand forefinger. However I think I cut this many years ago and I wonder whether it's scar tissue that keeps splitting.

I get this, the same two joints repeatedly split. Even after a month or 6 weeks of healing and no climbing while I'm offshore, do a few hard board sessions or get back on Avenged and I am pretty much guaranteed they'll open up in short order.

[TobyD]

I get this, the same two joints repeatedly split. Even after a month or 6 weeks of healing and no climbing while I'm offshore, do a few hard board sessions or get back on Avenged and I am pretty much guaranteed they'll open up in short order.

Pretty much every hold on the crux of avenged is awful on your skin (well, they are on mine). I've found that too many goes on a route can lead to developing nasty weak spots of skin, probably a sort of scarification, and re-opening becomes progressively more likely. 

[SA Chris]

I've got a skin annoyance at the moment and not sure what is best to do with it. Lost some skin on my pointer finger a few weeks back.  Fortunately it grew back pretty quickly, but after the last session it looks like the new skin isn't bonded to the next layer and is going to go as well. What's best? Just let it go and sand, tape it and hope it stays?

Thanks

[bendavison]

I'd get rid of it. Use nail clippers or a razor to cut it cleanly. Sand the edges down. Maybe tape for a bit if it's still peeling - try using a really thin (~3mm) strip, starting from just above the knackered area and working down with 1-2mm overlap. It's pretty bomber even without glue. Careful not to make it too tight!

[SA Chris]

It's peeling top and bottom. Might try thin bit of tape