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can i train endurance beside strength and power (Read 2683 times)

Gulmark

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Hey guys .. Im a big fan of UKB, and a daily reader


I would like to get your input on how to get some endurance 7-10 weeks out from a sportsclimbing trip. Probably going somewhere that is pumpy.

I live in Denmark and only visit rock for 2-3 weeks once or twice a year. I train in a boulder gym, most of the time having some kind of periodization igoing (normally focus on strength and power).

On rock i climbing the in the high 6's and 7's- many 6c onsights, 7a flash and 7b redpoints. Im best at slight overhangning fingery stuff, but generally consider myself as weak, with a good mental game and ability to recover in the rests.

Sport on plastic i havn't climbed above 6c+, i always get a stupid pump, but then again i mostly boulder on plastic.

I have just come back from different overtraining injuries (shoulders and elbows) and is therefore also very weak as well as not having any endurance.

I have 7-10 weeks to regain strength and to get some endurance. I have started a 3 week FB strength phase (10/10 hang/rest protocol + strength work), plus the odd boulder session. After the 3 weeks i'll begin with power sessions (limit boulder and campus)and 2-3 weeks before my trip i'll change focus to PE. But how to a get more aerobic endurance into the mix.

It is too late to make a base phase with ARC. Can i add endurance sessions in between my strength and power sessions without it ruins everything ? Can i train endurance in the end of my strength and power session without ruins everything ?

and how to train it ? my gym is crap for ARC! 'Problems on the minut' with jug rest in between? 4*4 ? foot on campus with jug rest?

I'll adjust the level so each round will last 10-15 min without massive pump and a equal amount of rest in between ?


Hope you guys have som input on how you would proceed! and thanks again for an awesome forum !!

jwi

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You can probably add some local endurance training to the mix. It will help a little bit, but don't expect to get decent amount of local endurance in a short time. Done lightly it shouldn't interfere with strength or strength endurance training too much.

It is more or less impossible to train dedicated local endurance in modern commercial McDonalds gyms within a reasonable time frame.

Sasquatch

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Where are you going sport climbing? 

Listen to teh training Beta podcast with Alex Barrows, and he talks about this and a couple of regimes he has used for training endurance. 

Gulmark

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It is probably going to be ceuse but that might change so pumpy routes on slopey pocket! Listed to the podcast today and i was a bit surprised that he has a strength phase before aerobic capacity phase! I thought it was generally done the other way around with the notion that "endurance kills strength" ? :)

abarro81

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Either I explained really badly or you totally misunderstood, since I never have a phase entirely dedicated to aero cap. I think I was talking about my ideal 6 month plan, where I would have a long base phase where I do strength and ancap, then aerocap gets added in about half way through that. At this point I'd be doing stength/ancap work 5 days per week (i.e. every climbing/training day) ideally, it's just that I'm aerocapping too. The reason not to put the aerocap in the first 2 months of base instead of the 2nd 2 is that there's no point building up all the aero cap then just letting go of it way before you get around to using it. If the base is only 2 months then I'd usually add aerocap in right from the start, which is probably why I'm weak.

I've had a look at research on concurrent strength and endurance training in the past, but the studies I found were all designed in shit ways and had inconclusive and often contradictory results anyway. If there was a consensus I could find in training literature online it was that the further apart on the intensity/difficulty spectrum the components are the less likely they are to interfere with each other. Unfortunately that doesn't always fit well with other principles and timings, so you're always going to be making compromises. Anyway, if your enduro work makes you tired then your strength work is likely to be less effective. The more tired you get the greater the effect. Whether this is worth it depends on your priorities for long-term gains vs doing well this trip, what routes you'll be trying, what your underlying strengths and weaknesses are etc etc...

Gulmark

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thanks for clearing that up :) and in retrospect it was probably just me who misunderstood that part of the podcast. It was also very interesting to hear your take on high (interval) vs low intensity(continuous) aerobic workouts.

 

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