[Nibile]

Ok, first things first. Elbows are getting better.
Left one is almost completely recovered; right one, that was achey even before the last injury, is not, but it's getting better and better.
I have taken a few days off, lots of natural antiinflammatories and antiinflammatory patches. I did lots of Theraband stretching and lots of triceps extensions. Did some weights, avoiding the triceps, the press ups were fine, just some discomfort on the right elbow. Board climbing is fine!

So, I'm trying to focus on what may have caused this super acute phase. Years ago it happened almost the same. I went to bed and I was fine, I woke up and my right elbow was fucked. And no, I hadn't furiously wanked that night.
This time, my elbows were already a bit fatigued.
I think this could have been cause by overhead triceps extensions with dumbbells that I do in one of my finishers.
On this base, many weeks ago, I had a strange injury to my right elbow, that I'm sure is at the base of the current situation.
While visiting a private wall, I - strangely - fell off a problem. The mattresses are covered with a plastic sheet that's not smooth, but has a very thin kind of net texture. I fell on my right elbow - strangely I was in a roof - and I had the impression that the external layers of skin/soft tissues got caught on the net and didn't slide down, while the elbow itself slid down the mattress due to the fall - you know, gravity, that thing.
It was super super painful and weeks later it was super painful to press the spot.
I think that this may have caused a big inflammation on which some other issue has added up.

It felt as if some "layers" of skin/soft tissue/fascia/muscles had slid one on to the others.
Has anyone else had the same?

On this base inflammation, I definitely felt something while doing one footed bouldering with my weightvest. I had a particularly satisfying session in which I did my normal routine of four problems - yes, that few - and then did again the two harder ones. Lots of pressing down on the holds to stay put, and I felt a strain on my right elbow on the last problem. Classic.
Finally, when both elbows got fucked two weeks ago, I think that a big big part was made by bad eating habits during those days and too much alcohol.

Opinions?
Cheers.

[lmarenzi]

Cause of sore elbows for me was climbing my first pitch of steep ice, about 30 mins on top rope. Lots of lock offs and pull up type moves, but never letting go of the tools properly to allow some circulation. Golfers and tennis elbow in both arms for about 6 months as a result.

Another time I was doing pull ups on axes virtually every day when there was no ice to climb, which made my shoulders and arms strong in neutral hand orientation, but when I went back to climbing on rock/plastic I ended up hurting an elbow, golfer's on the right side. Minor inconvenience at the moment and rehab working I think.

[TheTwig]

Any chance you could take a pic of your elbow(s) with the painful area circled with a felt tip pen or something? As someone who seems to have multiple elbow conditions I'm always curious about others. Good luck 

[Muenchener]

Seems like we're operating permanently at the limit of what our elbows can handle and any slight change is enough to push them over the edge into actually hurting. 

In my case recently it was mucking about in the park practicing crevasse rescue & hauling with some mates who were heading off for a glacier ski tour. Made the mistake off locking off to fiddle about with something instead of hanging on a prusik - sore elbow for weeks afterwards.

My elbow problems so far have always been golfers/brachioradialis, and stretches and hammer curls seem to keep them reasonably under control.

[TheTwig]

Seems like we're operating permanently at the limit of what our elbows can handle and any slight change is enough to push them over the edge into actually hurting. 

In my case recently it was mucking about in the park practicing crevasse rescue & hauling with some mates who were heading off for a glacier ski tour. Made the mistake off locking off to fiddle about with something instead of hanging on a prusik - sore elbow for weeks afterwards.

My elbow problems so far have always been golfers/brachioradialis, and stretches and hammer curls seem to keep them reasonably under control.

buy dave macs book, or start doing some of those internal/external rotation at the wrist type exercises, they seem really really really good for golfers! : )

[Nibile]

Cheers for the replies. 
Here's a pic.
20150513_110658 by Nibile, on Flickr
The single point is the original injury, the fall on the mat with what I described as "layers sliding one on the other/separating". It was painful just in the spot, but very painful.
The double point is more or less the current injury. It's painful at some degrees of flexion, while extending the arm. It seems more related to the intersection of the tricep.

[webbo]

I get pain where you have the 2 dots when trying to extend my arm. I broke a bone in my elbow 33+ years ago in a fall where I put my hand down as I fell. My arm still will not straighten afer all this time and an op to clear the debris out 3 years ago.
Do you need to have an xray?

[tomtom]

I get a little pain sometimes where the lower dot is. Its my "you're doing too much campus style shit" warning pain... Always goes with a few press ups and avoiding that type of manoeuvre! It is IIRC the classic Golfers elbow spot (someone will now tell me its Tennis elbow - I always get the fuckers mixed up)..

[TheTwig]

Cheers for the replies. 
Here's a pic.
20150513_110658 by Nibile, on Flickr
The single point is the original injury, the fall on the mat with what I described as "layers sliding one on the other/separating". It was painful just in the spot, but very painful.
The double point is more or less the current injury. It's painful at some degrees of flexion, while extending the arm. It seems more related to the intersection of the tricep.

Interesting! It's like some kind of murder mystery 'Was it the golfers elbow in the pantry with the campus 1-5-9?' 

The single dot injury I really would get checked out. Overuse etc injuries in my opinion can be fairly safely self-diagnosed with looking at the patterns of pain, how they respond to different rehab treatments etc, but things resulting from falls really could be anything. A zillion different structures in the area that could be damaged.

I had some pain in the area of the double dots a week or two back, that was EXTREMELY painful, like just even a slight poke hurt pretty bad. Didn't respond to massage or anything like that and just went away after a day or two. Definitely something triceps related. Maybe take it easy on the triceps related exercises?

BTW, do you keep a diary of training exercises / how your body feels? It would help alot of people who get mystery pain identify what is causing it. e.g. Thursday 14th - lots of gaston moves on steep board. Friday 15th - shoulder seems fucked, I wonder why?

[Nibile]

Cheers for the feedback.
First of all: I used to keep a training diary, but not anymore. I tend to be quite OCD on some things, and I don't like it. I know quite well what I'm doing though. Basically, I train my fingers using a couple of standard sessions: a fingerboarding one and a system one. The latter also trains body tension.
Then I just boulder, at various levels of intensity and volume.
I measure progress mainly on my fingers' routines, but also on test problems and board projects.

Then: the single dot doesn't seem golfer's elbow. It's not in the bone (epicondyle), where the tendon attaches, it's right the soft tissue. I had that before, when I was doing 7/3 repeaters. Too much isometric I think. That's the area affected by the infamous fall on the rough mattress.
The double dot is specifically tricep related. Too much overhead triceps extension with too heavy of a weight.
Theraband extensions are getting things better, along with lots of stretching.

What do you all think about what I described about my fall? Is is possible that deep skin/fascia/muscles slid one onto another? It was extremely painful at the moment and for weeks if pressing the spot.

Cheers.