For ancap you shouldn't be pumped, you should be powered out
Random question:
Say you're doing a route at your limit and you're powering out on the same move each redpoint (a move which is relatively easy on the dog and isn't a strength issue)
Is this basicly training Ancap out on the crag?
What is the best way to break through this barrier? Persistant redpointing?
I'm speaking from this generally happening to me all the time. I either don't embrace the siege or switch to some different type of training or do easier routes thinking this will help be some time in the future, which is probably where I'm going wrong.
Cheers
Hi Luke, Steve Maisch's training site was linked in the training resources thread. Having a look through I came across these blog posts yesterday:
http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/training-blog/archives/09-2013 which have some info on the difference between getting pumped and powering out.
"When we’re in good bouldering shape we tend to use the phosphagen system more, while when we’re in good route shape anaerobic glycolysis plays a larger role. I’m sure there are boulderers out there who are familiar with that feeling early in route climbing season where you don’t feel pumped you just fall off. After hanging on the rope for a minute or so you pull back on and do a couple of moves and fall again without feeling pumped."
On the basis of this the diagnosis would be to do ancap training or just keep route climbing.
Generally I thought the idea of a standardised test for whether which energy system is best developed in a climber was pretty interesting though I would definitely have trouble finding the type of comparable difficulty and style graded problems indoors that it requires.
