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Sportiva Genius (Read 41053 times)

ghisino

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#100 Re: Sportiva Genius
September 24, 2015, 02:15:39 pm
I'd be interested to know how people manage it, if they actually do use these for micro edging as perhaps I'm using the shoes wrong

1) i'm wearing my futuras very tight. 38.5 for a 42.5/43 street size.

2) they seem to work best when i "frontpoint" with that bit of sole that overlaps the big toe. It works but it does require a lot of foot strenght and it is painful.

3) what described above works really good on things that are in between microedging and smearing, especially on inclinations near vertical. A few foot placements in this ballpark might even be impossible with other shoes.
However, on well defined, small sharp edges a traditional shoe like a white will work better: the futura will hold but feel as if it might roll off.

cha1n

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#101 Re: Sportiva Genius
November 23, 2015, 10:26:24 pm
What size are people wearing these compared to futuras? Or worst case Muira VS?

Seeing as I wear my futuras for 95% of my climbing once route season ends, I think I can justify getting a pair whilst they are cheap. I wouldn't mind having the adjustability of laces too, I wont lose any sleep over having to tie laces. Cheers

**** EDIT ****

Nevermind, just bought them in a 41.5 which is what I wear in futuras. Will update this if the size is wrong.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2015, 10:45:15 pm by cha1n »

cha1n

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#102 Re: Sportiva Genius
December 08, 2015, 01:11:21 pm
Size was wrong... would probably go up 0.5 - 1 size. I might just return them though.

Has anyone tried wearing these no edge shoes fairly large? Currently I can wear them for about 5 minutes climbing before I have to take them off. I had my first dose of euro sport last week and I preferred futuras to other shoes but I couldn't wear them long enough for the routes where you're on them for like 15-20 minutes (or longer). They're quite soft shoes, so wonder if they'll be a floppy mess in a larger size. I'm finding it harder and harder to enjoy climbing in traditional rock shoes after getting used to these...

benno

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#103 Re: Sportiva Genius
December 08, 2015, 01:34:08 pm
Totally the opposite of my experience. I tried a pair half a size smaller than my Futuras and they were unusably cavernous. Very weird... The toe box felt like it was much higher volume than the Futuras to me, it's certainly quite a different shape.

cha1n

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#104 Re: Sportiva Genius
December 08, 2015, 04:36:55 pm
Agree that the futura is a high volume toebox, that's why I get on better with them. I have very long toes and squeeze into a high volume toebox nicely.

Normal disclaimers regarding everyone's feet being different apply. My feet are low volume, wide at the front, narrow heel and long toes (slight Morton's toe).

Coops_13

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#105 Re: Sportiva Genius
June 08, 2016, 07:35:06 am
I bought the same size as my solutions and they fit fine...


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cjsheps

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#106 Re: Sportiva Genius
July 10, 2016, 11:02:10 am
Didn't think it was worth starting a new thread for, but has anyone tried to sand down the heel on a solution? I reckon there'd be enough rubber to take the "tennis ball" felling away with a belt sander or something. Is this a terrible idea?

Jim

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#107 Re: Sportiva Genius
July 10, 2016, 12:01:18 pm
depends on what you normally use heel hooks for, grit sloper heel hooks then maybe but if you want to heel hook anything with an edge on it then I find the extra rubber helps to grip better.
I recon its a terrible idea TBH

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#108 Re: Sportiva Genius
July 12, 2016, 03:41:02 am
I think the solution heel has a mold of some kind.  not sure sanding would change that.

 

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