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UKB Power Club Week 271 20th - 26th April 2015 (Read 16433 times)

Luke Owens

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Sticking to longer routes and aerocap training for awhile in prep for Ceuse in September/Diamond season.

you don't say if you're in a block program so you may have it planned, but don't neglect strength training ahead of your trip.  I imagine you'll need a lot of open-hand pocket-pulling strength to maximise your chances out there.  Easy enough to work strength and Aero in the same session.

Cheers, good advice. I haven't formulated a plan as such. I've just come out of a winter mainly bouldering so feeling strong but unfit at the moment.

That's always my problem, never enough fitness for the routes I want to do, never have a problem on the difficulty of moves themselves.

I'm going to mix in open handed pocket training on the beastmaker throughout the year but fitness is the main thing I need to massively improve. I've just never stuck at it long enough, but now I have a reason too. Psyched!

cheque

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Looking forward to this film. I hope it's 50 minutes of dashcam driving to the crag followed by nine minutes of time-lapse clouds blowing over the top of the crag, before a minute of interviews set over people falling off VSs.

 ;D Careful what you wish for.

iain

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Good see it had been done and with the clips in such logical positions.  Now there's no need to decide between trying to make a strenuous clip mid crux or risking a big lob if you fluff it. 
I thought about that, nice to hear I got it right.

Looking forward to this film.
Me too

;D Careful what you wish for.
Have the cliche edit as an extra.

T_B

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M -
T - Back to River of Life. Met Dave and Scouse D there avec lamps. Took a while to get the toe hooks to work then managed to link it  :) Played around on potential r-hand exit.
W - School lunch. Trying 7c+ circuit in sections.
T -
F - School lunch. Mostly 30 degree board, finished with some campussing.
S -
S -


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tomtom

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JohnM - the travel / conference lifestyle makes it hard to maintain any sort of routine for training... I find the same - I start to get good then will go off somewhere for ten days and not have time to do anything other than some token stretching..

Weight: 70.2kg

M: Work
Tu: Work

We: Work - then managed to get an early evening trip to Almscliff en route back to Manc... Man, I'd forgotten how that place turns into chuffers paradise when the sun comes out.. I was the only boulderization person there! Bloody ropes all over demon wall tsk tsk :) Felt quite strong... flashes of Belly, DWR - too hot for Dreamland but had to try... Then pottered down to Underhand. Had a couple of decent efforts but tired rapidly. I've not been to the cliff for a while and I forget how much (those problems) sap your core..

Thu: Up early to drop MrsTT at the Airport then off to the peak (en route back to Hull..) to crag X. Lovely spot... potttered on the LH side (god knows what!) then Haydn arrived and talked me through all the problems. Much appreciated Haydn - thanks. Mainly played on Jericho Road (made steady progress though a way to go) and had a furtle on Zippys later on - which also felt do-able. So looking forward to heading back. Nice to have a different spot from the RubiTor alternatives..

Fr: Waste of a day...

Sa: Up early to try and get to Brownstones, to get Hanks Wall before (a) it started raining or (b) the sun gets round onto it (about 10:30-11)... I arrived - got my shit out of the car and it promptly pissed it down. Arse.
Went home and did some assisted one armers for the first time in over a year.. with minimal warm up got two repeats at -14kg... at/better than my best back then. So I'm clearly either lighter, stronger or both!
Drove up to Kendal to see folks for mini daytime family get together.. nearlly nearly stopped at Trowbarrow on the way home, but just - only just decided not to...

Su: Up early to try and get to Brownstones, to get Hanks wall before (a) it started raining or (b) the sun gets round onto it. It was dry - and chilly. Good connies. I came close, close close, but no cigar. Gave up before I split my left tip... Felt stronger than before, but body was really wobbly.. so it will go, just a matter of time and attempts.. Went home.
Got bored, so went to Harmers in the early evening. Nice warm up in the main quarry then got stuck into Andy Popps projects.. Made progress, but a long way from completion.

Quite a week in terms of four different crags (and three rock types)....

shark

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Back to River of Life. Met Dave and Scouse D there avec lamps. Took a while to get the toe hooks to work then managed to link it  :)

 :2thumbsup:

kelvin

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Hello all, first post here. Am hoping it will help with some aims for the year.



 Welcome :wave:

Sasquatch

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STG: Maintain Psych, and drop weight (Bad week back up from 175 to 177) Either local boulder or route projects depending on weather.
MTG: Bolt new route projects, have a couple of promising walls to recon.  1-4-7 & 1-arm pullup
LTG: To Bolt...

M-Run-3mi
T-Run-3.5mi
W-Short Boulder session outside at another new to me boulder - Easy stuff up to v5ish, then flashed a v7ish FA :)
T-FB Max Hangs, 3 x outside low BM2k at 247lbs total hanging weight.  run 2mi
F-Rest
S-Long walk on beach w wife and daughter :) , then managed to sneak out for a couple of hours to the Anchor Point Boulder (new to me).  Great session on a big granite erratic.  Ticked off the problems that had been done up to a crimpy v7, then went to work on three projects.  Managed to send all three in fairly short order - v9/10, v8, and v9/10ish. YYFY
S-Rest

Generally easier week for training.  Just getting started into a strength phase, aiming at Max Hangs for about 4 weeks, and max pull strength.   

Full trip description for those who want to read it :)
NSFW  :
Outside was great this week.  On Wednesday after dinner, I headed out with a friend to a boulder 15 minutes from the house that my friend had found/cleaned last fall. It's a beautiful ocean-side boulder in the tidal flats south of Anchorage with 11-12 problems from v0 to v7, and a stellar v1/2 17 foot tall slab.  It was so good I did it 4 times in a row. :)

On Friday I headed out of town for a weekend away with my wife and daughter.  Brought a pad and shoes as I knew the boulder was nearby, but didn't expect to make it out.  After the long walk in the morning my daughter decided to take a nap in the afternoon, and my wife decided to as well, so I was left with a couple of hours free.  I ran out, found the boulder and rampaged through everything in 2.5 hours including driving and approach which included a river crossing, snow, hail, thunder, and sun.  The boulder is really interesting, and is characterized by two horizontal crack bands at about 3-5 feet and at about 7-9 feet, which make for generally good sit and stand starts to problems, and often big reaches off good holds.  I started out on a slightly dirty, but good v2 which was the shortest line on the boulder at about 10 feet.  Then I headed over to a v3 which was stellar and followed a series of good incut edges up the steepest face and topped out with a perfect mantel.  Next up was a lankfest v4/5 that had a big committing 4 foot move at 12 feet up.  Last on the warmup list was the king line of the boulder -a brilliant 18-19 foot v3 arête.  Done warming up, it was time to get serious, so I moved onto a line given v9 by the FA called Moth to a Flame, which was duly dispatched 2nd go and more like v7 - It was basically one hard move from a  crappy right hand crimp to a jug.  This was all of the established straight ups done, so next up were the last three project lines.  An acquaintance (Kobi) who lives in the area and has climbed on the boulder showed up just and we got to work on the projects.

First up was an interesting power problem going through a roof and powering up off a good undercling and terrible feet.  A few minutes working out the individual moves had it sorted and I was able to send it first go from the ground by the skin of my teeth.  While I worked this, Kobi worked on Moth to a Flame, coming close to the jug on multiple attempts.  Next up was a tall, just off vertical line with good holds to start, and a blank upper section just right of the arête, and also 17-18ish feet tall.  We took turns working out a sequence, and I was able to link through using a lanky tension reach off high feet and underclings to a crap crimp, set the feet into another high undercling, and reach for good holds to top out.  Last up was another thin face just right of the previous one.  This was very similar to the previous one, but there was no undercling to use.  Instead it was a huge 5+ foot deadpoint off a good high right foot and one pad incut crimps to a small 3 finger 1/3 pad slimper.  Hit this just right, and get the left foot up and fire for a good edge just below the lip.  After about 4-5 goes of not quite getting the slimper, I was able to finally hit it perfect and pull though for another send.  Kobi went back to Moth to a Flame for a couple of last goes and got a big flapper coming off the jug ending his day.  I'm sure he'll get it next session.  It was an amazing and unexpected short afternoon session!

webbo

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Mon. Nothing wedding anniversary.
Tue. Bike 30 miles  1 hr 41 mins.
Wed. Board just repeating stuff, reasonable session as I felt pretty weary.
Thu. Bike intervals 20 secs on 40 secs off x 5 3 sets then a bit of a ride 25 miles.
Fri. Board repeating stuff I've not done for ages.
Sat. Board repeating stuff again skin a bit sore. Bike 40 miles  2 hrs 26 mins. Got caught in a storm, punctured. Felt a bit hypothermic when I got home.
Sun. Bike 72.61 miles 4 hrs 25 mins longest ride of the year, several big hills. Battered when I finished.

Dolly

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M
T Foundry Wave. Level 2 volume session. Hard. Gym for weights and core in the evening
W
T Lamping with Lagers at Hampers Hang. Obviously a) I was sandbagged and b) had a great time
F After nearly 2 years without doing my back it went in the morning as I was brushing my teeth. Lots of physio ball and exercises throughout the day
S Back hurt. Couldn't risk climbing outside. Easy beastmaker session in the morning.
S Back hurt more. Pilates in the morning when my back felt great afterwards. Some kettlebells in the evening

saltbeef

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 I still have no self control at conferences with all the free food and booze available...
Its frustrating that I can't complete a basic strength and conditioning phase without my body falling apart. 

i feel your pain

TobyD

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STG: Groove,Malham, get solid at E5 again
MTG: Stolen, Kilnsey Huecool, Gordale, E6
LTG: 8a+ abroad, anything >8b

M rest, 40 minute trial run
T awful job interview, great bouldering session 7-8 move problems on the wave + 15 minute aerocap
W soloing at Stanage, about 30 routes mostly up hvs-e1s, and down vd-vs
T sucessful job interview, road run 40 minutes
F trail run 35 minutes
S Malham 4 goes up the groove. best linked 3 overlapping sections
S battered. embankment, laps on 6b-7a+

tomtom

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M
T Foundry Wave. Level 2 volume session. Hard. Gym for weights and core in the evening
W
T Lamping with Lagers at Hampers Hang. Obviously a) I was sandbagged and b) had a great time
F After nearly 2 years without doing my back it went in the morning as I was brushing my teeth. Lots of physio ball and exercises throughout the day
S Back hurt. Couldn't risk climbing outside. Easy beastmaker session in the morning.
S Back hurt more. Pilates in the morning when my back felt great afterwards. Some kettlebells in the evening

Fuck - thats what happened with me! Went to Hampers Hang with Lagers and then my back screwed up...

I think theres a class action coming up against Lagerstarfish bouldering services...

tommytwotone

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M: Insanity class at the gym on lunch - tried as my other half has been going to classes at our local leisure centre. Turns out it's really hard!
T: HIIT class at the gym on lunch - good fun, lots of different exercises as it was a bit class. Off to London for work in the afternoon, then beers then food then more beers.
W: Meeting in London while feeling a bit hazy, then train back. Ticked Ben Moon's autobiography on the journey.
T: Deadlift session on lunch. Gradually worked up to a new 1RM PB of 115kg. Creeping towards the 2xBW.
F: Cellar Beastmaker session in eve. More diligent warmup, then managed 5 x 5 x 5 sec hangs.
S: Nowt much.
S: Woodhouse Scar session. Totally screwed up my tactics, arriving at the hottest part of the day despite a chilly morning and what turned out to be a decently cool evening. Did a few things including the world's easiest 6c which must be a misprint / I went off-route, then tore a flapper just above the palm of my hand. Went to The Sheriff but absolutely nothing doing. Left in a bit of a grump.



tomtom

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M: Insanity class at the gym on lunch - tried as my other half has been going to classes at our local leisure centre. Turns out it's really hard!
T: HIIT class at the gym on lunch - good fun, lots of different exercises as it was a bit class. Off to London for work in the afternoon, then beers then food then more

Some aggressive sounding gym session names there!

I'm waiting for our local twerk out classes to start....

lagerstarfish

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M
T Foundry Wave. Level 2 volume session. Hard. Gym for weights and core in the evening
W
T Lamping with Lagers at Hampers Hang. Obviously a) I was sandbagged and b) had a great time
F After nearly 2 years without doing my back it went in the morning as I was brushing my teeth. Lots of physio ball and exercises throughout the day
S Back hurt. Couldn't risk climbing outside. Easy beastmaker session in the morning.
S Back hurt more. Pilates in the morning when my back felt great afterwards. Some kettlebells in the evening

Fuck - thats what happened with me! Went to Hampers Hang with Lagers and then my back screwed up...

I think theres a class action coming up against Lagerstarfish bouldering services...

the LSF Sandbagging Service has a very similar phone number to the LSF Bouldering Service - make sure you don't book with the wrong one

they are, of course, two completely separate corporate entities

no refunds

tommytwotone

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M: Insanity class at the gym on lunch - tried as my other half has been going to classes at our local leisure centre. Turns out it's really hard!
T: HIIT class at the gym on lunch - good fun, lots of different exercises as it was a bit class. Off to London for work in the afternoon, then beers then food then more beers.
W: Meeting in London while feeling a bit hazy, then train back. Ticked Ben Moon's autobiography on the journey.
T: Deadlift session on lunch. Gradually worked up to a new 1RM PB of 115kg. Creeping towards the 2xBW.
F: Cellar Beastmaker session in eve. More diligent warmup, then managed 5 x 5 x 5 sec hangs.
S: Nowt much.
S: Woodhouse Scar session. Totally screwed up my tactics, arriving at the hottest part of the day despite a chilly morning and what turned out to be a decently cool evening. Did a few things including the world's easiest 6c which must be a misprint / I went off-route, then tore a flapper just above the palm of my hand. Went to The Sheriff but absolutely nothing doing. Left in a bit of a grump.

Schnell

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Sat: Isatis dodging showers. Repeated the 6C/7A standing start to le Surplomb Statique and then worked the crouch start (Divine Decadence) while a mate worked the standing start. All the moves went, bar the first, which I didn't try because the hold was wet. One to come back to.

Good knowledge on the name for the crouch start. I tried it a few weeks ago but couldn't find the name online. Also where does the 6C/7A grade for the stand come from? It felt about 6B to me with the crouch a lot harder. Both great problems either way.

Also  :o about the Bleau's Art fiasco, if someone told me I couldn't try a problem I'd be pretty shocked and pissed off.

duncan

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T sucessful job interview, ...

 :2thumbsup:

Which one?

72.5kg

STG: Avoid recurrence of shoulder problem
Improve hip pain and flexibility
Lose 2kg.
E3 before return of family   Fail.
MTG: E5 by end of June
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7c RP.

M - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Westway 10 routes to 6b. Shoulder felt fine!
W - Careless finger tweak in DIY accident. Not in the shark class but will need to take it gently for a bit.
T-S  - Shoulder stability stuff. Family back in UK.

Plan: Off to Singapore next week for conference, followed by a couple of days in KL, then points north in Malaysia for a week. Not sure how much climbing this will involve but I have rope and light rack.

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Sat: Isatis dodging showers. Repeated the 6C/7A standing start to le Surplomb Statique and then worked the crouch start (Divine Decadence) while a mate worked the standing start. All the moves went, bar the first, which I didn't try because the hold was wet. One to come back to.

Good knowledge on the name for the crouch start. I tried it a few weeks ago but couldn't find the name online. Also where does the 6C/7A grade for the stand come from? It felt about 6B to me with the crouch a lot harder. Both great problems either way.

Also  :o about the Bleau's Art fiasco, if someone told me I couldn't try a problem I'd be pretty shocked and pissed off.

I was told by a local that the traditional stand start i.e. on the sloper and pocket, moving to the ball and then up, was 6B (which felt right), and that starting standing 2 moves lower on an edge and sloper was somewhere between 6C and 7A (I think 6Cish but I'm tall). I think this is the same start for Surplomb Gauche.

Re: Bleau's Art - agreed. I was quite taken aback, and for some reason the woman trying the problem couldn't seem to understand why I was grumpy as a result.

tommytwotone

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M: Insanity class at the gym on lunch - tried as my other half has been going to classes at our local leisure centre. Turns out it's really hard!
T: HIIT class at the gym on lunch - good fun, lots of different exercises as it was a bit class. Off to London for work in the afternoon, then beers then food then more

Some aggressive sounding gym session names there!

I'm waiting for our local twerk out classes to start....


Aye - Insanity is, well, pretty insane - serious high-intensity intervals, all bodyweight exercises but tons of large compound movements. The class was literally 30 mins but completely relentless, helped by the person leading the class going round and kicking your ass if you were taking it easy!


I was completely done in, looked up at the clock and 10 mins had gone by. Apparently people do it (at home I assume, the DVDs are a best-seller) and get completely ripped. I can imagine why.


The HIIT is a more normal circuits kinda dead, but with some "fun" exercises like whipping massive ropes, heavy bags of water that don't behave like a barbell, flipping tractor tyres etc.


For the days when I've only got lunchtime to train I hope / assume these are at least keeping me in shape.












Schnell

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Sat: Isatis dodging showers. Repeated the 6C/7A standing start to le Surplomb Statique and then worked the crouch start (Divine Decadence) while a mate worked the standing start. All the moves went, bar the first, which I didn't try because the hold was wet. One to come back to.

Good knowledge on the name for the crouch start. I tried it a few weeks ago but couldn't find the name online. Also where does the 6C/7A grade for the stand come from? It felt about 6B to me with the crouch a lot harder. Both great problems either way.

Also  :o about the Bleau's Art fiasco, if someone told me I couldn't try a problem I'd be pretty shocked and pissed off.

I was told by a local that the traditional stand start i.e. on the sloper and pocket, moving to the ball and then up, was 6B (which felt right), and that starting standing 2 moves lower on an edge and sloper was somewhere between 6C and 7A (I think 6Cish but I'm tall). I think this is the same start for Surplomb Gauche.

Re: Bleau's Art - agreed. I was quite taken aback, and for some reason the woman trying the problem couldn't seem to understand why I was grumpy as a result.

Ok, the lower of the two starts was what I was referring to, it felt 6C at the hardest but I'm then again I'm tall as well.

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I considered not bothering this weekend due to injury gloominess but here goes..
STG: rehab fingers and do some fitness training for a possible sport climbing trip in June

M. decent indoor session, trying to do non-crimpy climbing and campussing on slopers but managed to increase the tenderness in the finger despite my best efforts so scored high on finger-tweakiness index.  shoulder stability training in eve.
T. enduro training session at the wall on the circuit board, feeling pretty good again, no finger tweaks. more shoulder rehab
W.
T. more indoors, scoring high on the tweakiness index again.
F.  visit to physio who confirmed by diagnosis of partial a2 rupture and recommended that I continue climbing as long as it's not causing pain/increased tenderness at the injury site. in good news my shoulder stability is no longer as dreadful as before so that shouldn't be causing my litany of finger injuries. rather she observed my particularly 'long fingers' are probably the root of the problem. I'll call mr. caldwell for advice on dealing with that.
S. yet more indoors amid floods of rain, I was keen to get out and do some easy routes so it was frustrating.

not a great week mainly due to my silliness in continuing to climb in ways that aren't helping the finger, even if they're not making it worse. I've decided to only fingerboard, campus and do fitness training for the next while because I can more tightly control grip types etc and, in my experience, I'm much less likely to tweak anything.

nai

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Re: Bleau's Art - agreed. I was quite taken aback, and for some reason the woman trying the problem couldn't seem to understand why I was grumpy as a result.

Experienced similar at 95.2 recently, German girl working a problem her fella had just done. It was just about in the shade and I was keen to get on it before the sun got on it so asked if I could join in. Seemed his English was better so he agreed and explained I wanted to try it to at which point her face dropped and as soon as I put my shoes on she took hers off. Had a couple of goes but realising I wasn't welcome I wished her luck and left her to it to try something else. I returned just as she was leaving at which point she was very friendly despite having not been successful, her English had improved a lot too and she gave me some beta and wished me luck.  Change from a grumpy frau to a very pleasant girl, kind of odd, obviously feeling some sort of pressure or focus that was broken by the presence of somebody else.

 

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