[ghisino]

after considering céuse, verdon, berdorf, FJ and Baume les Dames, it seems that my next mini sport trip (in a week) will be in tarn.

and i've never been there, so ukb forum memebers might be more knowleadgeble than me.

i'd like to fill in three kinds of ticklists:

1)redpoints. 8a to 8b. This ideally must be short and intense affairs. ideally 10 to 20 moves of bussiness, no rests, with easier "can't fall off" terrain above and below. Or two, max three shorter crux sections in the middle of "can't fall off nor get pumped" climbing. The kind of climbs that would get labelled as "long endurance affairs" in FJ but fall in the "bouldery" category at céuse. 
Anything fitting this description outside of Gullich and Oasif? And in these two sectors, which are the real gems at the grade?

2)enjoyable moderates. 60 meter jugfest 7a/bs? Anything beautiful, remarkable and enjoyable 6a to 7b really, regardless of lenght and style. Just no choss, no sharp unexpected cruxes, nothing that would leave me unexpectedly trashed.

3)Challenging onsights. 7b/c. Ideally, a few 5-10 moves sections with clearly defined "clip and chalk" semi-rests in between. A bit céuse-like if you see what i mean.

cheers!
g

[standard]

Bar-bitturique at 8a immediately comes to mind.

[jwi]

I'm not the right person to ask for short routes. But I'll do my best..

1) Jour de perf, Amphitheatre is 6-7 moves long, 8a-but unlikely to remain so imho. Hoy me voy, Planete Causse is around 20 moves to a good shake-out. The rest is not really trivial though... And its straight in the sun after 11 am.

2) Grande Aventure 7b at de fas aqui is the definition of abus. Knowledge about the two-rope, two-grigri technique to get down from 80m rigs mandatory.

Les couilles aux cul 7b at Figues au Cul. 50m.

The trio "Rose paille ..." (7a+), "Faites le mur..." (7b) and "La Tarn ça vous gagne” (7a+) are all around 50m also at   Figues. The two first are really good, all are somewhat runout, especially "Faites le mur..."

On the right side of L'Oasif there are 6-7 7a's right next to each other. They are all sustained and easy to onsight, except one of them which felt more like 7b. (Can't remember which, Alambic? maybe? check 8a.nu)

Tresor du Zebra at Tresor du Zebra is a classic 7a.

There are so many excellent 6s in Tarn. Le petit massoro at Naivre and Jeux de Plage at Tresor du Zebra maybe?

3) Avatarn 7c+. The hard section is split into two parts. I failed to o/s but thought that was mostly down to lack of power/short strength endurance

The first pitch of Les ailes du désir (7b+, 35m) is very good and has mostly short sections between decent to excellent rests.

Arnaque.com (7c) is around 5-6 moves, but require a bit of luck on the o/s.

All the roof-climbs on the right side of Naivre, from Grandeur nature to El Diablo (7b or 7b+)

[jwi]

Also http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=19995.0 and http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=9579.0

[ghisino]

. Hoy me voy, Planete Causse is around 20 moves to a good shake-out. The rest is not really trivial though... And its straight in the sun after 11 am

This one was ace!