[petejh]

I've been training towards my first 8b with the goal being Melanchollie at LPT. I'm starting trying it this weekend but the weather looks like it's taking a turn for the worse normal. Wondering about plan B's in case I end up shut down by conditions on my primary goal. My strength is crimping and power, not PE. I've hardly trained PE during the build-up so it sounds like something like Predator isn't realistic.

Anywhere between N.Wales and Yorkshire - not aware of anything within traveling distance south of here until you hit south Wales/Devon?

(yeah 8b, the grade matters to me)

[Fiend]

Shurely shark has his own account to post this question??

[rosmat]

My strength is crimping and power, not PE. I've hardly trained PE during the build-up so it sounds like something like Predator isn't realistic.

If crimping and power are your strength, not PE, then Zeke The Freak at Rubicon jumps out to me as a good alternative?

What about Magnetic Fields or is that 8a+ now?

[tim palmer]

Kali yuga at two tier?

[T_B]

Zeke is a good choice from a tactical point of view in that it stays dry and is in the shade. It's v crimp/wristy.

Karma Killer on Crunch Buttress is short, in the shade but I you'd need to like undercut monos?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jon_clark/9022507459/in/photostream/

Of course Revelations if you can do the move.

[andy popp]

Is Insomnia at Dinbren still 8b? Not exactly long but maybe a bit PE?

[Luke Owens]

Is Insomnia at Dinbren still 8b? Not exactly long but maybe a bit PE?

Exactly what I was about to suggest.  It's still 8b in the new guide that isn't out yet.

Happy to give you belays on it too Pete. I'm climbing down my way this weekend as the weather looks better.

If you want something easier there's an 8a project at the Gorge that needs doing   

[petejh]

Thanks for the suggestions.

The gorge proj - Grand Canyon extension - is prob a bit power-endurancy for trying combined with a bouldery 8b. But yeah I consider that an open proj now - nice 3 star PE hard 8a for someone, get to it!

[JohnM]

Rodney God is now 8b if it is just the grade you want.  Probably just a boulder problem.  What about Corinthian Groove?  Isn't Melancholie a PE route?

[Luke Owens]

You any good on roof's Pete? How about Temple of Gloom? It's pretty short and looks ace.

Stays dry most of the time and Doylo lives in that cave so you wouldn't have a problem getting a catch. Would also be a good quick change of venue if you went to the Orme and Melanchollie wasn't in condition/tides no good?

[petejh]

I'll be living with doylo soon if I start trying Temple of. Can't stand him 

But yeah good point.

Melanchollie - yeah some PE but it seems to me to be at the bouldery end of the PE spectrum compared to something like The Brute, Huecool, Oak or Predator from what I know from asking people. I've never been on it - Sunday will be the first time and when I start finding out if I've trained well for it.

[abarro81]

As mentioned, Zeke and Kali Yuga both fit the bill in the peak. Zeke has harder moves but fewer of them IMO. Kali is better.
Magnetic isn't that crimpy. Bouldery, suits the tall.
What about the Oak?

[Doylo]

There's only 3 in North Wales worthy of consideration, Temple, Hole Truth and Speckled Jim  Zeke is soft requires no fitness but is a few hours away and you don't know anyone who wants to go there    Malham is easy to get partners, Oak or Magnetic. Don't need any fitness for Magnetic. Insomnia is really good but a bit borderline and Dinbrens a pain in the arse apart from on cloudy days. Thin on Top is amazing with a hard boulder problem at the end. Would need to build up the fitness on Stiff Upper Lip though.

[haydn jones]

Zeke and kali both excellent routes. What grade does revelations get?