[tommytwotone]

As a time-poor new man I have a small enough window of an evening having rushed home from work, thrown some food down, bathed and put to bed the babbit and then done the washing up from dinner.


As I've not got a cellar and a project I'm psyched to get back on the Beastmaker to fill the days between my typically once-a-week climbing window, but less psyched about reigniting old shoulder, elbow or finger problems.


So, my question is what do folk do to get warmed up? How much is enough?


As a idea, the other night I did about 5 mins of skipping the back yard and swung my arms about a bit, then went down the the cellar, cracked my knuckles and got on with it.


I'm currently doing a routine on a Beastmaker 2000 of 5 sec hangs on each of : biggest sloper, 4 finger crimp on top row biggest edge, 3 finger crimp on same edge, middle 2 in the to row 2-finger pocket and 4 finger crimp on the bottom row outside edges. 1 minute rest inbetween. All feet off, all in deadhang position.


At present I can manage about 3 rounds of the above, which I'm aware is terrible.
 

[Muenchener]

As a time-poor new man I have a small enough window of an evening having rushed home from work, thrown some food down, bathed and put to bed the babbit and then done the washing up from dinner.


As I've not got a cellar and a project I'm psyched to get back on the Beastmaker to fill the days between my typically once-a-week climbing window, but less psyched about reigniting old shoulder, elbow or finger problems.


So, my question is what do folk do to get warmed up? How much is enough?


As a idea, the other night I did about 5 mins of skipping the back yard and swung my arms about a bit, then went down the the cellar, cracked my knuckles and got on with it.


I'm currently doing a routine on a Beastmaker 2000 of 5 sec hangs on each of : biggest sloper, 4 finger crimp on top row biggest edge, 3 finger crimp on same edge, middle 2 in the to row 2-finger pocket and 4 finger crimp on the bottom row outside edges. 1 minute rest inbetween. All feet off, all in deadhang position.


At present I can manage about 3 rounds of the above, which I'm aware is terrible.

I worry about warming up for fingerboard sessions at home too; doing them at the wall after half an hour of light-to-moderate bouldering to warm up feels safer (and the slopers are stickier) but also seems like a bit of a waste of a wall visit.

I generally do some shoulder / upper body mobility stuff, some kettlebell swings to get the blood moving, and a couple of sets of kettlebells wrist curls - although I'm not sure if these really do anything useful -  then start of with a few sets of repeaters on easy holds. At first it felt like that wasn't enough of a warm up, but I seem to have got used to it.

[Sasquatch]

I've posted mine before, but here it is again:

5min Pullup bar:
3 x 15 sec hang, 15 sec rest, 5 pullups(15 seconds), 15 sec rest, 5 ankles to bar(15 seconds), 15 second rest

1 min rest

5 min warm up hangs:
3 x 10 sec hang bm2k big edge, 20 sec rest
3 x 10 sec hang one hand on bm2k row 2 big edge and 1 hand on lower row outside edge, 20 sec rest
2 x 10 sec hang lower outside edge, 50 sec rest
2 x 10 sec hang bm2k big edge with weight, 50 sec rest.

2 min rest

FB workout. 

[the_dom]

My warmup for fingerboarding is pretty simple and effective - I use a 2cm rung, but the big slots on the BM would work. On the minute, I do 5 10 second hangs, each hang immediately followed by 5 push-ups. Then I do a ladder of 1 to 5 pull-ups on the minute, each set also immediately followed by 5 push-ups.

[nai]

As a time-poor new man I have a small enough window of an evening having rushed home from work, thrown some food down, bathed and put to bed the babbit and then done the washing up from dinner.


As I've not got a cellar and a project I'm psyched to get back on the Beastmaker to fill the days between my typically once-a-week climbing window, but less psyched about reigniting old shoulder, elbow or finger problems.


So, my question is what do folk do to get warmed up? How much is enough?


As a idea, the other night I did about 5 mins of skipping the back yard and swung my arms about a bit, then went down the the cellar, cracked my knuckles and got on with it.


I'm currently doing a routine on a Beastmaker 2000 of 5 sec hangs on each of :
biggest sloper,
4 finger crimp on top row biggest edge,
3 finger crimp on same edge,
middle 2 in the to row 2-finger pocket and
 4 finger crimp on the bottom row outside edges.
1 minute rest inbetween. All feet off, all in deadhang position.


At present I can manage about 3 rounds of the above, which I'm aware is terrible.

I make that 18 hangs which isn't too shoddy as a max hang routine.

Put a chair in front of the board and do some foot on stuff, pullups etc to get everything working at a lower intensity.  I often find I can struggle on a grip early in the workout then try it again at the end and do much better because I wasn't warmed up enough to start with.

If you've got, or can get a pullup bar (less than 3 FAs at Argos iirc), it's useful for warming up plus you can rig up a pulley or use some elastic stirrups to help your warmup and workout.

And re the skipping, watch your knees, going out cold on (presumably) concrete and impacting them like that can't be good for them, shirley

[petejh]

A combo of 20-second bouts of shadow boxing, interspersed with 2-5 secs gentle hangs on the BM progressing in difficulty from the easy  sloper and deep slots to the small crimps by the end of warm-up. Bit of jogging on the spot and arm swinging. I take about 10-15 mins warming up for a fb sesh and then start the sesh with a relatively easy first grip-type.

[dave]

I think the problem warming up on a fingerboard for a fingerboard workout is its hard to get arms and shoulders really going in the same way that you do when doing a normal climbing session. Even if you're sticking to 2-arms hangs I think its probably wise to get the shoulders going and engaged for the purposes of injury avoidance too. Maybe some pressups, heavy theraband and dumbbell shit to try and get shoulders firing. I mainly see the difference when doing 1-arm hangs - on a home session I find it very difficult to get warmed up enough to do them properly even when pretty fresh, but when I try to do a few random one-arm hangs at the end of a long indoor bouldering session, even when knackered, they seem much easier.

[duncan]

I do the following:

1. Brief shoulder prehab. routine: side planks, press-ups, military press. 10 reps of each? Aiming to ‘wake up’ the shoulder stability muscles, cuff and serratus especially.

2. Hang from pull-up bar or fingerboard jugs, feet on chair, for 10-15 seconds, 3-4 times.

Short rest.

3. Hang from pull-up bar or jug: 1sec on, 1sec off x 6 reps, rest for about as long as the set (ie 12-15 seconds) then repeat. At the start I’m just easing the weight off my feet and immediately lowering again. Then do the same with two sets each of 2sec on, 2secs off, 3sec on, 3secs off and 5sec on, 5secs off.

Two minute rest.

4. Repeat the process on the deep edges on the fingerboard, starting with hangs with feet on chair, then 1 second hangs x 6 x 2 sets and so on to 5 seconds on, 5 seconds off.

Two minute rest.

5. Repeat the process as before but on the holds and with the grips I'm going to be training in this session.

Two or three minute rest, then go for it!

This process takes about 20 minutes, after which I feel warmed up but not worn out.

As a idea, the other night I did about 5 mins of skipping the back yard and swung my arms about a bit, then went down the the cellar, cracked my knuckles and got on with it.

I don’t try to raise my core temperature as I train in a fairly warm room. I don’t whirl my arms about as I’m not going to be bowling cricket balls. I don’t stretch before or immediately after as it makes you weaker and seems not to change the risk of injury. I don't crack my knuckles because my other half tells me off 


The last set in the warm up (5 seconds on - 5 seconds off x 6 reps) feels like about 80% of the intensity of a 7 seconds on - 3 seconds off x 6 reps 'repeaters' set. If you're training max. hangs or weighted hangs, you might want to increase the load some more before going for it but the same approach should apply.

This might seem a bit over-complicated but I think it’s good to have a set routine since it encourages you to warm-up properly every time and not cut corners. I’m no fingerboard guru but I’m not young and somewhat injury-prone. Touch CNC routed wood, I’ve not yet hurt myself fingerboarding.

[tomtom]

[siderunner]

Useful thread. As a novice at FB-ing I am quite wary and usually do about 20' warmup incl 5' cardio and some light weights. It's usually at 6am which means it takes a while to get going ;-)

I like a minute of just "traversing" on the FB whilst standing on the ground; moving through almost all the bm1k holds and gradually weighting the holds more and more while feeling what's going on in my fingers. I usually repeat that three times at which point I actually want to pull hard - so about 5' total.  Then I start on jugs for the first two sets.

[petejh]

Not exactly an all-over warm-up.. but then fingerboarding isn't exactly an all-over workout..

[duncan]

I use a weighing scales, which seems to cause great hilarity whenever I mention it here, but which is very simple and effective.

Sounds like a good idea to me. I'd do the same if I had scales that allowed this. Feet on a chair is the equivalent with less precision.

[jwi]

I use a weighing scales, which seems to cause great hilarity whenever I mention it here, but which is very simple and effective.

As recommended by Guido Köstermeyer in his nice little training book “Peak Performance, Klettertraining von A - Z”

[tomtom]

I do some pec, bicep, tricep and shoulder stretches..
Then a do a full set of 6 x 3 on the large holds - then I get stuck in...

[rodma]

Feet on a chair or somesuch and pull a wee bit, move chair further away to make it steeper and pull a wee bit, walk about, talk to the cat, prod the baby, move chair further away still, pull a wee bit more, pour myself a glass of water, remove chair, start training

[rodma]

I forgot the bit where I walked about and talked to the cat and prodded the baby in-between the initial chair set up and moved sets.

It's important to have down time between exercises, the blood is still flowing even if you're not pulling, so fidget, check the forums, do whatever to kill, or usefully fill time between the easy, progressing to harder warm up exercises prior to getting stuck in. It's a warm up after all, save the short intervals for the main event (if that's what you're doing )

[Eddies]

12secs hanging from pull-up bar,12secs rest,12secs of pull ups,12secs rest,12secs of angles to bar,12secs rest. Repeat again then rest a couple of mins before moving to the beastmaker.
4-sets of 3-hang encores from the big slots with legs in the L-sit position to engage core. Rest 3mins.
4-sets of 3-hang encores from the crimps with legs in the L-sit position.
Rest 3 mins and that's my warmup over and ready to start max hangs, CWP or repeaters session.

[rodma]

Or have more than 12 seconds rest,  it's a warm up ffs.

Of course, you can ignore what I wrote if you don't care about the quality of your actual session.

It's not the training, at home or otherwise, that matters, it's how you train, if you care about results. My hardest pulls/exercises are right at the end of my session because that's when I am warmed up enough and ready for them. I wouldn't be able to perform them as well if I tried to rush the warm up/routine , but I could still do them and pretend to myself right enough that I'd be a beast by this time next year, even though it already is this time next year if I bothered counting.

Sorry if that comes across dickish, it's only meant to come across as abrupt, like your warm up.

Some of us are old (er) and should take care about warming up, especially when overtired, overworked, old injuries and with a lot of other things going on.

[Sasquatch]

I've posted mine before, but here it is again:

5min Pullup bar:
3 x 15 sec hang, 15 sec rest, 5 pullups(15 seconds), 15 sec rest, 5 ankles to bar(15 seconds), 15 second rest

1 min rest

5 min warm up hangs:
3 x 10 sec hang bm2k big edge, 20 sec rest
3 x 10 sec hang one hand on bm2k row 2 big edge and 1 hand on lower row outside edge, 20 sec rest
2 x 10 sec hang lower outside edge, 50 sec rest
2 x 10 sec hang bm2k big edge with weight, 50 sec rest.

2 min rest

FB workout.

12secs hanging from pull-up bar,12secs rest,12secs of pull ups,12secs rest,12secs of angles to bar,12secs rest. Repeat again then rest a couple of mins before moving to the beastmaker.
4-sets of 3-hang encores from the big slots with legs in the L-sit position to engage core. Rest 3mins.
4-sets of 3-hang encores from the crimps with legs in the L-sit position.
Rest 3 mins and that's my warmup over and ready to start max hangs, CWP or repeaters session.

Those look remarkably similar

Or have more than 12 seconds rest,  it's a warm up ffs.

I use longer rest when I get to smaller/worse/harder sets.  15 seconds on the bar is usually plenty for me, and will rest longer if my body/fingers are telling me to.

I also do more progressive FB hangs if I'm doing Max hangs. 

[nik at work]

I usually feed the dog. Dunno what to do if you don't have a dog...

[Eddies]

Those look remarkably similar
 

Yeah, I got the 12sec interval warm up from you a while back   
I used to be able to jump straight on the Fboard and warm up doing encores (especially in summer) but as I've pushed into my 30's I've found I need a good pulse raiser first.

[Ti_pin_man]

usually for me its a 50/100 star jumps, then ten shoulder rotations front and then 10 backwards followed by some theraband sets and then a couple of jug deadhangs. 

[tommytwotone]

I usually feed the dog. Dunno what to do if you don't have a dog...

I did mean to mention that my warmup routine described at the start included 1 rep of bathing 15-month-old followed by 1 rep of put 15-month-old to bed. Would have thought that lot pretty much covers me for a shoulder warmup!

[SA Chris]

I usually feed the dog. Dunno what to do if you don't have a dog...

Feed the pony

[fried]

usually for me its a 50/100 star jumps, then ten shoulder rotations front and then 10 backwards followed by some theraband sets and then a couple of jug deadhangs.

I do exactly the same except without the star jumps, shoulder rotations, or theraband stuff. Why am i always injured?